This was from my 2008 tour on a ZZR, not sure if ferry still does same route / schedule, I do know last time I looked (2009) the cost had gone up a lot so it may be cheaper to ride through France and grab a B&B.
STAYING THERE:-
We stayed at a Half Board dedicated bike guest house - http://www.experiencethepyrenees.com in Engomer on the French Side of the border, the accomodation, food and hospitality was second to none.
One Day and Multi-Day guided tours are available from the hosts Caty and Chris, we did our own thing, but they were most helpful with route advice and can provide routes and maps tailored to your wishes free of charge. Chris has been visiting the region for about 20 years and lived there about 4 years and has extensive knowlege of the entire region from the Atlantic to the Med, I think he knows nearly every road for a hundred mile radius!
The location is perfect giving access to both the French and Spanish Pyrenees and close to Andorra, it is also easy to pop down to the med for a day or even lunch. Engomer is close to St Girons and I would recommend this area, most of the best routes are in circular area with engomer being at the top of this circle, Foix is a really nice place and would also make a good base.
GETTING THERE
St Girons is about 300 Miles from Santander (Add another 300 if going from Calais) and this seemed the best option, the Ferry (Brittany) leaves the UK (Plymouth) at midday and arrives at 9.00am the following morning.
The run from Santander is escapsim in itself, on the map it looks like motorway, in reality it is a series of 80 - 100 MPH sweepers winding along the north Spanish (Atlantic) Coast through hills and mountains. At Bayonne in France you turn onto the A64 all the way to St Gaudens, this road is not as good as the Spanish section, but still has some curves and scenery. An easy 5 hour run at legal speeds - just add your personal stopping requirements.
I can't comment too much on the journey there as we arrived to a massive storm across Spain (Most unusual for the time of year) and had an eight hour (Including stops) journey on predominantly soaking wet roads with laying water and gale force winds - the worst conditions I have ever ridden in.
ROUTES:
All the roads in the area are great, rather than buying two michelin maps I would recommend the "Rough Guide to the Pyrenees maps which covers the entire area and beyond.
Obviously I did not go looking for trails as I was on a ZZR but all the roads are pretty twisty, even the famous N260 would be great on a GS.
Day 2: (@80 Miles)
As the weather was still a bit poor on the second day we waited for the roads to dry up a bit and just went to Foix for lunch, a really nice town. This was using the D117, although one of the least windy roads around it is still better than any road I have in a 50 mile radius of my home!
Coming Back we chose the D618 "Col Des Cougnous" route, but this was proper tight most of the way - 1st and second gear only, 10 mph bends with 30 mph straights most of the way - very scenic. Again we got wet, it started to rain and became pretty cold. Still worth it for the stunning scenery. Probably much better on a GS!
Day 3: (About 250 Miles)
We decided (with advice from Chris) to head to the med coast as the local forecast was not good, this involved the D117 again, past Foix after which it got a bit tighter and went into a forest, you then reach Quilan - the road into the town winds down an amazing piece of road, before you go down there is a scenic view and a big layby \ Carpark - worth stopping for a look before assualting the hairpins, it still had a few damp patches under trees but the surface was great.
The road then gets a bit straighter but at one point you go through a narrow valley with massive cliff faces to each side - really stunning. This then takes you through wine territory to Perpignan, under advice we passed by and stopped at collioure for lunch - a very pretty little town.
Before we were half way back we hit rain which ruined the Quinlan road, those hairpins were less fun with water running across the road!
Day 4: (About 360 Miles)
We got up late as the forecast was still not great - Do not let my bad luck put you off, it is very rare to have more than 1 or 2 bad days in a week this time of year.
As it looked crappy, damp and misty we lazed about with a plan to run over the moutain to Spain a bit later for lunch. I was concerned about fuel as the rumours are it is awkward on Sundays - Caty told us of an open station in the next village so I knew we were good to go and Chris assured me I would be OK in Spain.
We did not get going until about 11.30 and headed from Engomer on the D618 (the road the village is on) over the moutain pass (damp roads but stunning scenery - another GS road) this took about an hour to do 30-ish miles)- we then went south on the D33 (more major road) to St Beat, stopped for some food and decided to ride for another hour before returning (It was still cold / damp)
The D33 switched to the N125 and then the N230 taking us to the beautiful Vielha, we had been recommmended the C1412 to Sort, but due to leaving so late I knew this would be far too slow going so continued on the N230 through Tuc De Betren Tunnel - 5k long!
As we came out the other side we could see blue sky ahead, this then became sunshine and soon it was warm!
At El Pont De Suert we joined the Very Famous N260 - I now reckoned it would be quicker using the main roads to return via Andorra, this took us over a mountain pass past Perves. The heat was great,I am guessing it was about 25c by now and I did not want to go back into cold France!
We took the N260 all the way to La Seu D'Urgell including the Famous bit (Sort - Adrall) - had many a local blast past, there were loads of them, did not see one Brit, but the Spanish were out in force on this stretch but to be honest the entire road was awesome, from here we went into and right through Andorra (over rated, although glad we saw it for ourselves - also dirt cheap duty free for those who smoke)
It was now getting on a bit (6.30) and we were much higher, although it was warm as we entered Andorra and not too bad as we went into the tunnel exiting on the French side as soon as we came out of the tunnel it was cold and damp again!
At this point we had a long descent and at the bottom it was noticeably warmer (mild enough) the N20 from Andorra back to Foix was really good, much faster than many of the roads we had been on (great as we wanted to make some time up and get back before dark) and quite well suited to the ZZR, still not a top speed road as there are not really any straights, but flowing nicely without the need for too much braking.
Day 5: (320 Miles)
Back to the Ferry - much better, cold at first (8.00am) but warm before we hit Spain, cold and damp through one Moutain section, but generally great weather.
Stopping in a Service Station I noticed my tyres peeling on both sides from the constant motorway curves
In warm dry weather this Motorway is brilliant, even at a cop friendly 80 - 90 you are leaning a fair way on most of the curves and it really takes the boredom out of motorway riding (mind you on the way there in the rain I would have preffered it arrow straight like the M!)
OTHER STUFF
French motorways have 130kph limits mainly (82mph) which allows for indicated 90 mph cruising without risk of fines, Spanish Motorways are 120 (75mph) allowing for 85-ish on the speedo without much risk.
Fuel on Sunday's - A bit of a myth this - a bit tricky in France and many stations do not take UK cards, although we filled up at the weekend using an automated pump on a "closed" site with a Visa card. Spain is no problem, most stations are opened, manned and do take UK cards - our "Big Day Out" was on a Sunday and we had no problems finding fuel in Spain \ Andorra.
RECOMMENDATIONS
* All of the Roads - You cannot find bad ones!
* Experience the Pyrenees - Where I will stay again one day
* Rough Guide Map - Probably the ony one you would ever need (Waterproof too!)
STAYING THERE:-
We stayed at a Half Board dedicated bike guest house - http://www.experiencethepyrenees.com in Engomer on the French Side of the border, the accomodation, food and hospitality was second to none.
One Day and Multi-Day guided tours are available from the hosts Caty and Chris, we did our own thing, but they were most helpful with route advice and can provide routes and maps tailored to your wishes free of charge. Chris has been visiting the region for about 20 years and lived there about 4 years and has extensive knowlege of the entire region from the Atlantic to the Med, I think he knows nearly every road for a hundred mile radius!
The location is perfect giving access to both the French and Spanish Pyrenees and close to Andorra, it is also easy to pop down to the med for a day or even lunch. Engomer is close to St Girons and I would recommend this area, most of the best routes are in circular area with engomer being at the top of this circle, Foix is a really nice place and would also make a good base.
GETTING THERE
St Girons is about 300 Miles from Santander (Add another 300 if going from Calais) and this seemed the best option, the Ferry (Brittany) leaves the UK (Plymouth) at midday and arrives at 9.00am the following morning.
The run from Santander is escapsim in itself, on the map it looks like motorway, in reality it is a series of 80 - 100 MPH sweepers winding along the north Spanish (Atlantic) Coast through hills and mountains. At Bayonne in France you turn onto the A64 all the way to St Gaudens, this road is not as good as the Spanish section, but still has some curves and scenery. An easy 5 hour run at legal speeds - just add your personal stopping requirements.
I can't comment too much on the journey there as we arrived to a massive storm across Spain (Most unusual for the time of year) and had an eight hour (Including stops) journey on predominantly soaking wet roads with laying water and gale force winds - the worst conditions I have ever ridden in.
ROUTES:
All the roads in the area are great, rather than buying two michelin maps I would recommend the "Rough Guide to the Pyrenees maps which covers the entire area and beyond.
Obviously I did not go looking for trails as I was on a ZZR but all the roads are pretty twisty, even the famous N260 would be great on a GS.
Day 2: (@80 Miles)
As the weather was still a bit poor on the second day we waited for the roads to dry up a bit and just went to Foix for lunch, a really nice town. This was using the D117, although one of the least windy roads around it is still better than any road I have in a 50 mile radius of my home!
Coming Back we chose the D618 "Col Des Cougnous" route, but this was proper tight most of the way - 1st and second gear only, 10 mph bends with 30 mph straights most of the way - very scenic. Again we got wet, it started to rain and became pretty cold. Still worth it for the stunning scenery. Probably much better on a GS!
Day 3: (About 250 Miles)
We decided (with advice from Chris) to head to the med coast as the local forecast was not good, this involved the D117 again, past Foix after which it got a bit tighter and went into a forest, you then reach Quilan - the road into the town winds down an amazing piece of road, before you go down there is a scenic view and a big layby \ Carpark - worth stopping for a look before assualting the hairpins, it still had a few damp patches under trees but the surface was great.
The road then gets a bit straighter but at one point you go through a narrow valley with massive cliff faces to each side - really stunning. This then takes you through wine territory to Perpignan, under advice we passed by and stopped at collioure for lunch - a very pretty little town.
Before we were half way back we hit rain which ruined the Quinlan road, those hairpins were less fun with water running across the road!
Day 4: (About 360 Miles)
We got up late as the forecast was still not great - Do not let my bad luck put you off, it is very rare to have more than 1 or 2 bad days in a week this time of year.
As it looked crappy, damp and misty we lazed about with a plan to run over the moutain to Spain a bit later for lunch. I was concerned about fuel as the rumours are it is awkward on Sundays - Caty told us of an open station in the next village so I knew we were good to go and Chris assured me I would be OK in Spain.
We did not get going until about 11.30 and headed from Engomer on the D618 (the road the village is on) over the moutain pass (damp roads but stunning scenery - another GS road) this took about an hour to do 30-ish miles)- we then went south on the D33 (more major road) to St Beat, stopped for some food and decided to ride for another hour before returning (It was still cold / damp)
The D33 switched to the N125 and then the N230 taking us to the beautiful Vielha, we had been recommmended the C1412 to Sort, but due to leaving so late I knew this would be far too slow going so continued on the N230 through Tuc De Betren Tunnel - 5k long!
As we came out the other side we could see blue sky ahead, this then became sunshine and soon it was warm!
At El Pont De Suert we joined the Very Famous N260 - I now reckoned it would be quicker using the main roads to return via Andorra, this took us over a mountain pass past Perves. The heat was great,I am guessing it was about 25c by now and I did not want to go back into cold France!
We took the N260 all the way to La Seu D'Urgell including the Famous bit (Sort - Adrall) - had many a local blast past, there were loads of them, did not see one Brit, but the Spanish were out in force on this stretch but to be honest the entire road was awesome, from here we went into and right through Andorra (over rated, although glad we saw it for ourselves - also dirt cheap duty free for those who smoke)
It was now getting on a bit (6.30) and we were much higher, although it was warm as we entered Andorra and not too bad as we went into the tunnel exiting on the French side as soon as we came out of the tunnel it was cold and damp again!
At this point we had a long descent and at the bottom it was noticeably warmer (mild enough) the N20 from Andorra back to Foix was really good, much faster than many of the roads we had been on (great as we wanted to make some time up and get back before dark) and quite well suited to the ZZR, still not a top speed road as there are not really any straights, but flowing nicely without the need for too much braking.
Day 5: (320 Miles)
Back to the Ferry - much better, cold at first (8.00am) but warm before we hit Spain, cold and damp through one Moutain section, but generally great weather.
Stopping in a Service Station I noticed my tyres peeling on both sides from the constant motorway curves
In warm dry weather this Motorway is brilliant, even at a cop friendly 80 - 90 you are leaning a fair way on most of the curves and it really takes the boredom out of motorway riding (mind you on the way there in the rain I would have preffered it arrow straight like the M!)
OTHER STUFF
French motorways have 130kph limits mainly (82mph) which allows for indicated 90 mph cruising without risk of fines, Spanish Motorways are 120 (75mph) allowing for 85-ish on the speedo without much risk.
Fuel on Sunday's - A bit of a myth this - a bit tricky in France and many stations do not take UK cards, although we filled up at the weekend using an automated pump on a "closed" site with a Visa card. Spain is no problem, most stations are opened, manned and do take UK cards - our "Big Day Out" was on a Sunday and we had no problems finding fuel in Spain \ Andorra.
RECOMMENDATIONS
* All of the Roads - You cannot find bad ones!
* Experience the Pyrenees - Where I will stay again one day
* Rough Guide Map - Probably the ony one you would ever need (Waterproof too!)
