QD connectors in fuel lines

[JAY]

I want to get the tank off my 2004 model 1150GS and my only experience with tanks is getting them off an old airhead boxer - regularly!

Am I right in thinking that they are now fitted with QDs? If so where are they situated and how do you get them undone? I assume that there are also a number of vent tubes etc that need to come off too?

Anything else I need to know - apart from making sure the tank is near to empty - it must be bloody heavy when full!

 

[The Mechanic]

Tank off....

Yep peice of p*ss, quite right there are two QD couplers and they come off/apart really easy. Mark the top one with some paint so you don't connect up arse about face (can just be done although I haven't managed it).
Tank is heavy man if more than half filled, best make it a two person job for safety's sake.

The tank can move up and down quite a bit on the rear mounting so sit centrally in the mount. WATCH OUT the rear mount does not have a captive nut and it will drop down and possibly get lost. You have to hold this nut with a spanner to prevent is spinning. Put some rubber grease on the mounting rubbbers at the same time you put the tank back on.

There is also the two breather pipes that need to be disconnected as well before you can finally lift off the tank.
Go steady and good luck.

 

[The Mechanic]

Ooops...

Sorry forgot the fuel pump wiring connector block, straightforward disconnect. Double check the QD couplings (when you turn the ignition on) for fuel leakage.

 

[MikeO]

Jay,

remove the seat (natch).

Remove the right hand side panel (black plastic - pulls off). This should expose two QD fuel connectors.

Press the metal tag in on each in turn and pull the connectors apart. These should be fitted so that the two lines cannot be wrongly re-connected - if not, label them (or better still, swap one around whilst the tank is off so you can't do a 'Murphy' and reconnect them to the wrong line).

You'll find a flat plug (black plastic) attached to the bike beneath the side panel - disconnect this.

You'll find 2 rubber 'overflow / breather' pipes running from the tank down the right hand side of the rear subframe. These have a joint where they can be disconnected roughly in line with the rear of the air cleaner. Once again, disconnect these by leaving the joining piece on one and not the other to avoid 'Murphying'.

You're now ready to undo the only bolt holding the tank on. It has a large allen socket head and is on the right hand side. It DOESN'T have a captive nut, so make sure you put your finger between the nut and the battery carrier to catch the nut as you withdraw the bolt.

Pull the rear of the tank up, then pull it back off the two rubber mounts at the front. Walk clear of the bike, then look around desperately as you realise :

1. It's heavy, and
2. You've forgotten to clear somewhere to put it down.

Once you've found somewhere to park it, look at the rubber mounting on the tank from whence you've just removed the bolt. It is a 4 piece metal and rubber bush. Push it back together and put the bolt back through it, winding the nut on finger tight - it'll save those dammit, where is it? moments later

If you have an Adv - there's also a crossover pipe - which is great fun to thread back over the top of the engine....

Have fun,

Mike

ps re-assembly is the reverse - remembering to make sure the rubber seals between the front of the tank and the rear of the beak aren't kinked. Also, check the contacts on the 4 pin plug for corrosion & clean them up if at all unsure - lots of people have problems with the fuel gauge after removing & refitting the tank & it's almost always to do with corrosion on that plug....

 

[Deleted Member]

while yer down there missus...

Assuming the GS is the same as my R it's a good time to mention the poxy clips that crimp the hose to rigid plastic pipe just down the line from these QD connectors.
One of mine was leaking fuel over the engine last year. Dealer ordered new ones under warr. but I preffered to tighten existing by pinching with nail pullers.
The other one was leaking today, did same fix.
Noticed a lot of peeps reporting this fault on 'R' site and problem repeated with new clips. The repair above has worked so far but any sign of leak and it's down the the shop for a couple of jubilee clips.
One to watch.

 

[MikeO]

Good call Alan - all my clips have been replaced by jubilee clips, free of charge by my dealer.....

Mike

 

[JAY]

Thanks for all the useful info guys - sounds pretty straightforward!
Just need to do a good run now to drain off my newly filled tank!!

 

[jackafrica]

don't use Jubilee clips

Re the use of Jubilee clips, they're not the go for pressurised fuel lines.
BMW actually make a proper screw type clamp for these models.
part number ( I think ) is 16 12 1 176 918
Cute little critters with a BuMW logo on them, cost here in Oz is only a few $, 'bout a quid or so in your dosh. Hope this helps.

 

[judge]

My dealer recommended I go for jubilee clips as the OE clips are use once and throw away and require some tool or somesuch to use them

 

[Greg Masters]

... and require some tool or somesuch to use them

... a pair of common or garden pincers!

Actually, I think that the OE clips are fine especially as the whole point of the QD connectors is that you don't normally need to dismantle the connection between the fuel line and the QD connector.

I've known Jubilee-type clips to fail (especially if they are done up too tight) and they each have a loose end and other knuckle-scraping parts!



Greg

 

[judge]

... a pair of common or garden pincers!

Actually, I think that the OE clips are fine especially as the whole point of the QD connectors is that you don't normally need to dismantle the connection between the fuel line and the QD connector.

I've known Jubilee-type clips to fail (especially if they are done up too tight) and they each have a loose end and other knuckle-scraping parts!



Greg

How dare you question the wisdom of an MBW dealer - they are superior beings and you Sir are clearly misguided

 

[Greg Masters]

How dare you question the wisdom of an MBW dealer - they are superior beings and you Sir are clearly misguided

Then I am misguided by the MBW factory who chose to specify non-knuckle-scraping clips in the first place. So there!



Greg

 

[BiggaPope]

I used this hose clamp # from BMW 17121461500.

When reinstalling the quick disconnects, lube them up with something or you'll risk dinging up the O ring - and then they'll leak. Motor oil or spit works.