Questions; '83 R100R

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Appreciating Scotland
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I've had the above bike a couple of years now, used for some commuting, a tour of the highlands and a trip to Yorkshire.

For most of it's life it had one owner from new who put ~130,000 miles on it, much of it touring two up in Europe until time caught up with them.

I have found some things that don't seem correct on the bike and although there has been a lot of documented evidence of maintenance I'm not sure that the mechanics involved always did it correctly.

Issues:-

1)
Oil was leaking from the shaft into the FD and the FD output spline was all but gone so I stripped the FD off the bike and sent it to Mikeyboy to be refurbed.

2)
Whilst I had that stripped the shocker bushes loooked sad so I took off both shocks and found that the mounting bolts were fully threaded instead of set bolts. To my limited engineering knowledge that doesn't sound right so I ordered up new top bolts from Mark Hugget in Switzerland, forgot the bottom left so that still needs to be replaced as that too is fully threaded. Am I right on this?

3)
I pressed in new bushes top and bottom on the shocks, breaking my cheap Chinese vice in the process. With minimum preload the springs are loose on the damper unit. Have they sagged over the miles or is this normal?

4)
One up without luggage the bike feels like it is falling into corners on minimum preload, is this normal or a function of the springs having sagged? The dampers themselves actually feel fairly good with decent control. I am 94Kgs plus riding gear so maybe need a bit of preload anyway. :)

5)
The front forks feel soft and underdamped but jiggle over small bumps which I believe is due to the design of the prehistoric internals. Is there a recommended upgrade for the internals to bring them into the 21st century? The twin front disks have the bike diving for Oz.

6)
The saddle is like an ice rink, it looks like a genuine cover but using the few ponies that an airhead thousand makes, in first or second gear I have no choice but to pull on the handlebars to avoid being spat off the back of the bike. Is this a standard safety feature and what have others done to improve the situation whilst maintaining the original appearance?

7)
The bike is fitted with what looks like standard panniers, they slot into the rails and there is a lockable latch at the rear. How in hell do you get the rear wheel out at the side of the road to fix a puncture unless you remove the pannier rail first? To work on the back end I put it on the centre stand, that in itself is no easy feat,lashed the front wheel to the stand, leant the bike towards me and put a length of 4x2 under the right side stand foot, pulled the bike upright and then klicked the end of the 4x2 under the left foot giving me enough height to remove the rear wheel. Do I need to build a special 4x2 carrier for puncture repairs on the road? How do others manage?

I guess that for garage based maintenance I need to bite the bullet and get a proper bike lift.

I really like this bike and want to keep it long term. I want it to look like a standard classis but work better. Any other suggestions for improvements will be welcome.

P.S.

I'm just waiting for your post Arsey Martin :D Having posted elsewhere that I've never failed to receive positive responses to a serious post he set about rectifying that unblemished record of support from the Tosser cabal. Bring it on, preferably with some useful hints and tips. :)
 
So it's a twin shock, not a monolever? If that's the case, getting the real wheel out is a pain. On the road, you could heel the the bike over on the centre stand and get someone to pull the wheel out. Or put the bike on a kerb, then spin it through 90 degrees and drop it out using the extra height. In the workshop, remove the nearside silencer, deflate the tyre and waggle it out? Yet another BM foible by the design engineer who did the rear disc and hydraulics on the same era of bikes!
 
So it's a twin shock, not a monolever? If that's the case, getting the real wheel out is a pain. On the road, you could heel the the bike over on the centre stand and get someone to pull the wheel out. Or put the bike on a kerb, then spin it through 90 degrees and drop it out using the extra height. In the workshop, remove the nearside silencer, deflate the tyre and waggle it out? Yet another BM foible by the design engineer who did the rear disc and hydraulics on the same era of bikes!

Assume typo and it's a 1993 R100R. There's no such thing as a 1983 R100R unless it's a bitsa bike?
 
I can’t work out what bike you’ve got ????? The age model and description is a jumble. The pannier rails on an R100R are Z frames using the same fixing method as K series panniers.., regarding the slippy slidey saddle, try wearing a different pair trousers :D
 
so I took off both shocks

Perhaps we are talking about an unfaired RT or RS or even a T.

1 - Sounds like lack of maintenance.

2 - Bottom left is a fine thread with thin nut for clearance.

3 & 4. Your shocks may have been assembled with the wrong springs. It is possible.

5 - worth changing the oil.

6 - I wear leathers, they tend to stick to anything.

7 - Carry a bit of 4x2 if you are planning to get the wheel out whilst riding, or just take the LH shock and pannier rail off. You might manage without taking the exhaust off.

We'd all like to see your bike!
 
Assume typo and it's a 1993 R100R. There's no such thing as a 1983 R100R unless it's a bitsa bike?

It is a 1983 twin shock R100 roadster as in not a GS or RT or anything but a basic bike.
 
I don't have any decent photo's of it but here are a few of phone images. I've had to upload these direct from my computer and can't see why one is rotating:blast
 

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Original unrestored but certainly was sent for service regularly by the first owner. The second owner bought it privately directly from number one but his wife found it didn't suit her so sold on with very little use. Next owner intended to re-register it in France but when he found out it would cost him more than the bike was worth he too sold it on with very little use and I became the fourth owner.

Now at 135,500 miles. Original engine and gearbox, now has a rebuilt FD and has had one clutch in that time. Using my personal private test track it hits >100 with no problem and was still accelerating when I decided to be kind to it.
 
I can’t work out what bike you’ve got ????? The age model and description is a jumble. The pannier rails on an R100R are Z frames using the same fixing method as K series panniers.., regarding the slippy slidey saddle, try wearing a different pair trousers :D

I tacked on the suffix R working on the basis of the later oilheads, I guess it is actually just a plain R100.

The slippy saddle is just the same wearing either the 'stich or my Hoods. I'll maybe glue on a sheepskin.
 
Top Bolts 07 11 9 901 169 and bottom left bolt 33 53 1 230 249 pictured. From the MAX BMW Fiche.
 

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Thanks for that Mr G. I wonde why did BMW not fit set bolts to the top shock mounts. It looks like my bike had the correct items in place. Glad that I kept them but I'll leave the set bolts on anyway.
 


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