Quick release axle...erm, no

[twisticles]

I am in full numpty mode right now - help needed

I've previously taken the rear wheel off, but tonight I've spent two hours in 34 degree heat sweating like a pig with a stuck axle.

Started by removing the ABS sensor.

Then the axle nut came off ok, bit stiff but solved with a quick boot. The wedge bit came off, and the washer from under the axle nut.

But even after a swift kick up the rear to push the axle onto the chain tensioners, nary a tidge of movement. Not even enough to get the chain off.

So I slackened off the chain tensioners some more...a lot more. Still no movement of the axle fore/aft.

Out comes the WD40. Seems the wedge on the left side had glued itself to the swing arm.

Now its loosened up enough to get the chain off the sprocket. The whole wheel moves freely up and down the holes in the swing arm, as does the wedge on the left side. Caliper assembly moves with it.

I've tried pulling the wheel in every possible direction, as well as various methods of wiggling while trying to get the axle out but it seems absolutely stuck in there. Even a bit of persuasion with a piece of wood and a mallet on the nut side, but nada. It hasn't moved a millimetre.

Please tell me I am missing something obvious. Helge Pedersen make it look so easy in the Globerider DVD

 

[Gavin]

axle

I had a similar issue with the wifes 650 when I tried to tension the chain - resorted to dropping the clutch with the bike on the centre stand to "pull" the wheel forward

didn't reallt work so I left it to the experts when we changed tyres - they did mention that a fair amount of brute force was necessary to get the wheel off / axle out

problem with chain wasn't really solved tho' as it appear different parts are stretched differently - the chain is too loose in some places & too tight in others.............

 

[Greggers]

It sounds like the axle is/has been assembled dry, and has seized onto the inner races of the wheel bearings.

If I were you, I'd re-install the axle nut, and wind it on to the axle til it's almost all on then use a large hammer or rubber mallet to try and whack it through ... Thinking about it, prolly best to use a hammer as the shock will help break the 'bond'. You might need to undo the nut a little more to give you more to push through and as it will probably still be stiff, you'll need to use something like a 3/8th socket extension bar to tap it all the way out ...

Once it's out take the opportunity to clean up the axle with scotchbrite or wet/dry paper, do the same to the inner races then use some grease on the axle and adjuster spacers when you re-install...

Grandma and eggs? I hope not, but I think this is your problem ..

HTH

Greg

 

[GunZenBomZ]

problem with chain wasn't really solved tho' as it appear different parts are stretched differently - the chain is too loose in some places & too tight in others.............

My last chain seemed perfect until my local mechanic noticed that whilst turning the rear wheel around I had around a 2-inch stretch of play in the chain. It was gone/worn/abused by me, so has been replaced with a DiD chain by motorworks.

Twisticles follow Gregs advice ..thumbing through his Adventure-book & watching Gomorrah. Yes men can do 2 things unsuccessfully at once.

 

[twisticles]

Grandma and eggs? I hope not, but I think this is your problem ..

HTH

Greg

No egg sucking here at all! I've never encountered a seized axle before, much appreciate the advice.

Will give it a go tonight.

 

[twisticles]

Aw shit buggery bollox.

Well the good news I suppose is that the axle is out.

The bad news is that this axle won't be used again

In fear of knackering the thread on the axle and axle nut, I did all the sensible things...reversed the nut, wood on top, hit with mallet. Took a lot of brute force to break the corrosion 'seal', and some big thumps to get it out.

Despite all my precautions, the force required was too much for the threads, stripped on both axle and nut.

Ah well, I guess its only $$$ and a lesson learned.

 

[twisticles]

Well I managed the tyre change in 45 mins, which I think is a personal best

Spoke to my old dealer back in the UK, 79 squids for the bits...

 

[twisticles]

Axle change for 2010...

Seems there are two types of rear axle for the F800GS:

If you look at www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com parts fiche number 33 Rear Axle & Suspension you can see:

36317718602 AXLE SHAFT REAR $149.62
This item has a hex head like the original rear shaft.

But looking at fiche 36 Rear Spoke Wheel you will see:
36317720906 AXLE SHAFT REAR $95.72
This shaft doesn't have the hex head, but is flatter and fits inside the chain tensioner slider.

Looking at pix of the 2010 models they all have this axle too...


Haven't tried fitting it yet as the brand new replacement axle nut arrived pre-cross threaded

 

[GS Biker]

Seems there are two types of rear axle for the F800GS:

If you look at www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com parts fiche number 33 Rear Axle & Suspension you can see:

36317718602 AXLE SHAFT REAR $149.62
This item has a hex head like the original rear shaft.

But looking at fiche 36 Rear Spoke Wheel you will see:
36317720906 AXLE SHAFT REAR $95.72
This shaft doesn't have the hex head, but is flatter and fits inside the chain tensioner slider.

Looking at pix of the 2010 models they all have this axle too...


Haven't tried fitting it yet as the brand new replacement axle nut arrived pre-cross threaded

The 2008 bikes had the hex head then 2009 came along and BMW changed to the flatter one. I have had a couple discussions about this and a few say it’s to aid taking the wheel off with less hassle. Maybe so. Good luck

 

[Greggers]

Twisty ..

I thought I'd replied before but it must have been lost in the ether ...

Check your wheel bearings before you re-fit the (next to arrive) new axle, or if you have time just change them anyway - the BMW OE bearings are shite... I'm worried that the amount of force you've applied to the inner races when whacking the axle through may well have damaged the bearing surfaces, or maybe even displaced the LH bearing in the hub ...

Just a thought ...

Greg

 

[twisticles]

Twisty ..

I thought I'd replied before but it must have been lost in the ether ...

Check your wheel bearings before you re-fit the (next to arrive) new axle, or if you have time just change them anyway - the BMW OE bearings are shite... I'm worried that the amount of force you've applied to the inner races when whacking the axle through may well have damaged the bearing surfaces, or maybe even displaced the LH bearing in the hub ...

Just a thought ...

Greg

Cheers for that Greg. Having just had the front wheel bearings replaced as part of the 2yr service I was on the look out for that. The dealer said they inspected the rear wheel bearings but we now know that they didn't take the rear wheel off to do that.

So I was very careful all the hub internals and it all seemed very smooth, not at all notchy. But will monitor. Loads of Bel-Ray waterproof anti-corrosion grease for the shaft when it went back in.

I used scotch-brite on the inner surfaces, looking at the rust pattern on the old shaft it seems that it was the spacer that was the culprit, the long piece that sits within the sprocket hub part underneath the rubber bushes.

I also found out that the new nut didn't arrive cross-threaded, but its a kind of lock nut that I hadn't seen before So my attempt to save the threads by reversing the old nut on the old shaft probably contributed to the mashing of the threads.

Ah well, lesson learned!