Quick shift fix lc 1200

pics

Hi again, i've done some pics with a spare unit, the first one is of the GSAP unit in place with a line to the single retaining bolt, this is an encapsulated bolt but i have reused with loctite without any issues, just be very careful when retightening that you don't shear, I always use micro torque wrenches when in doubt and always suggest people research their own value

gsap 3.jpg

When you unbolt this 8mm? bolt you will need to apply light wiggle pressure possibly with a small lever (plastic) to encourage it to disengage you can then either unbolt the cup joint or like i did unwind the link bar which seems easier (make sure you note the lever height), there is a small shaft spline bucket which goes between the shaft and the unit (sort of serrated cast iron small thimble with splnes in it) these are an easy thing to lose under the nearest garage unit and i have seen them broken as they are a brittle metal, but they are fine if you are looking for them and careful when removing/replacing (it may stick in place on either the unit or the shaft and can be missed) i haven't got a spare one to picture as i wasn't going to disturb mine.

gsap 1.jpg

this picture is of the unit with a feeler gauge in the gap, the unit is fully tightened up and this is a standard gap of about 15 thou on the unit not a defect, this is the gap that i fill with silicon to stop the ferrous debris getting in.

gsap 2.jpg


This one is the unit apart, as you can see all that is inside is a large spring which provides pressure on A the shaft (an easy test when parked is to push and pull the gear lever and ensure it rotates around the point B up and down, its not a big movement but about 5-7MM and easily spotted (both can get stuck with old grease/pressure washing) which can then prevent the magnet which is pictured above B towards the top of the unit as pictured, moving relative to the electrical sensor C when bolted in place (which then and only then causes the ecu trigger dependant on up or down requirements).

gsap 5.jpg


of note i have had people with bikes thinking that they haven't got the hang of it actually been sold bikes without the GSAP unit contrary to advert etc (main dealers!) despite having the advice from dealers that they are all like that just be positive! so check that first, if it hasn't got a unit it wont have GSAP.

final pic shows the strength of magnet holding a stanley blade without blinking so a few filings are easily retained!

hope this helps someone
 
Thanks for that, I undid the bolt but the unit did not want to come off so I stopped there, now I know I can use a bit of gentle leverage I will have another go.
You popularity has now soared, have a cigar!:beerjug:
 
pics

you are welcome, they are a fiddle to get off the first time but with very gentle persistence they always come off.

:beer:
 
Thanks for posting the photos up, much appreciated. I will have a proper look when we get a fine day, its been a unusually wet spring this year, and no garage.......:thumb2
 
Had a good look today............But I have not got a 8 mm open ended, or flat ring spanner, and the gap between the frame and nut is too small to get a socket on. So its back on my to do list..:(
 
Had a good look today............But I have not got a 8 mm open ended, or flat ring spanner, and the gap between the frame and nut is too small to get a socket on. So its back on my to do list..:(

Bought a 8mm spanner, and removed the holding nut, but struggling to get the unit off. I pulled and twisted it, but does not want to budge. I did not want to use a large flat head screwdriver behind , as the unit looks a delicate. Did you disconnect the wiring first ?

Thanks for any help. Here’s a photo.
bc1fcaac2ac276ca38948a5e42d97aeb.jpg



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I left the cable connected until it was out of the frame. I just disconnected it then so I didn’t have to crouch on the floor to clean it.

I had to use a screwdriver on mine with a bit of rag wrapped round it. ( it didn’t take a lot of force) As long as you stay away from the connector the unit is not delicate. It’s a pretty substantial ally unit and would take serious abuse to break it.
 
Thanks for your quick reply Spoonz, I will attack it again tomorrow. As a side thing, I measured the gap that I intend sealing, and it was 14 mm, so plenty of room for fine particles to enter.

:beerjug:
 
Thanks for your quick reply Spoonz, I will attack it again tomorrow. As a side thing, I measured the gap that I intend sealing, and it was 14 mm, so plenty of room for fine particles to enter.

:beerjug:

14mm , are you sure ….
I checked mine and I had no gap.... odd , but its a silicon seal so it will move if you push the gauges too hard , like checking your valves . The seal will work as if you force the feelers in the nature of the seal will allow you to get an inaccurate reading , its a flexible seal not a hard seal.
 
14mm , are you sure ….
I checked mine and I had no gap.... odd , but its a silicon seal so it will move if you push the gauges too hard , like checking your valves . The seal will work as if you force the feelers in the nature of the seal will allow you to get an inaccurate reading , its a flexible seal not a hard seal.

He may mean 14mm wide. There was no seal on mine between the connector and the body but there are about 5 part numbers for the gsap so later versions may have revisions.
 
I checked mine ( all clean) used a couple of dirt bike tyre levers with a nice smooth rounded end. A bit resistant at first but if you can lever from opposite sides at the same time it popped off ok.
 
14mm , are you sure ….
I checked mine and I had no gap.... odd , but its a silicon seal so it will move if you push the gauges too hard , like checking your valves . The seal will work as if you force the feelers in the nature of the seal will allow you to get an inaccurate reading , its a flexible seal not a hard seal.

The 10 mm feeler gauge went in with no resistance, so added a 4 mm and it went in with very slight resistance. The unit is still attached to the bike though, when I get it off, I will measure it again.
 
Good news is I got it off, but the thimble like think was half still on the shaft and half still in the unit, so not enough space to clear the frame. I tried to get it to go one way or the other so that it would clear the frame to get the unit out, you did say it was fragile and it is. I will now try and order a new one I’m hoping real oem will show the way.




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Good news is I got it off, but the thimble like think was half still on the shaft and half still in the unit, so not enough space to clear the frame. I tried to get it to go one way or the other so that it would clear the frame to get the unit out, you did say it was fragile and it is. I will now try and order a new one I’m hoping real oem will show the way.




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IMG_2312.JPG



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Maybe small space is for heat reason, close down may give heat, I just thinking.
 
Maybe small space is for heat reason, close down may give heat, I just thinking.


Not sure why it has been made so delicately, the metal looks like some sort of cast alloy. It’s about the size of a thimble. It’s more fragile than a small birds egg.

Still trying to find the part on the internet, but no luck so far.
 
Not sure why it has been made so delicately, the metal looks like some sort of cast alloy. It’s about the size of a thimble. It’s more fragile than a small birds egg.

Still trying to find the part on the internet, but no luck so far.

It could be 3d sintered / printed part, BMW do a lot of 3D printed parts.

Although looking at the part it appears to have ejection pin marks on it, which would stack with it being a sintered part
 


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