Those choke gaskets look pretty good. Are the cork float bowl gaskets in good nick? You can get starting problems if they don't seal correctly.
R100T
- Thread starter (RIP) maverick
- Start date
Hi Rob,
Both the float bowl gasket and choke gaskets were part of the basic kit which I replaced now. Decided to replace everything rather than sticking back the old parts and hope for the best.
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2002
- Messages
- 12,651
- Reaction score
- 1,241
Btw non will run on full choke - full choke just to start and then half choke for a mile or so ( hope I'm not teaching you to suck eggs here )!!
Tickover about 1100 rpm or just as the ignition light is flickering ( St.Eptoe goes for 900rpm I think
)
Tickover about 1100 rpm or just as the ignition light is flickering ( St.Eptoe goes for 900rpm I think
)
Btw non will run on full choke - full choke just to start and then half choke for a mile or so ( hope I'm not teaching you to suck eggs here )!!
Tickover about 1100 rpm or just as the ignition light is flickering ( St.Eptoe goes for 900rpm I think
All help and comments welcome and just assumed it would run or idle on choke. Once the bike starts I normally just close the choke after getting through the gate and go
That flickering red light is doing my head in hence the reason it is just slightly higher than 1100rpm
Tyres
Hi chaps need some help on tyres.
Spec sizes what I could find are
Tyres, Front
3.25 H 19
Tyres, Rear
4.00 H 18
Looking for classic look so not so modern and really not worried about scratching through corners as the A13 is pretty straight
Been looking at the Dunlop K70 etc. Any suggestions based purely on what would look old skool?
What would the implications be going a size bigger in the front i.e. 3.5 instead of 3.25 in terms of fitment?
Hi chaps need some help on tyres.
Spec sizes what I could find are
Tyres, Front
3.25 H 19
Tyres, Rear
4.00 H 18
Looking for classic look so not so modern and really not worried about scratching through corners as the A13 is pretty straight
Been looking at the Dunlop K70 etc. Any suggestions based purely on what would look old skool?
What would the implications be going a size bigger in the front i.e. 3.5 instead of 3.25 in terms of fitment?
Metzler ME33 laser front
Metzeler ME99 rear...
OR the Conti equivalents..
Both OEM and still made 30 plus years on
but only available when a new batch is made>>
otherwise use Lasertech
http://www.metzelermoto.co.uk/web/c...xml&menu_item=/products/catalog/sport_touring
Equivalent is >>last in the rear list >>400x 18 but you will need to use yer toobs
front 350 x 19 V rated,, lastish in front list
Metzeler ME99 rear...
OR the Conti equivalents..
Both OEM and still made 30 plus years on
but only available when a new batch is made>>
otherwise use Lasertech
http://www.metzelermoto.co.uk/web/c...xml&menu_item=/products/catalog/sport_touring
Equivalent is >>last in the rear list >>400x 18 but you will need to use yer toobs
front 350 x 19 V rated,, lastish in front list
Nobbynumbnuts
Guest
Riks bike
Just butting in.Rik came to the Elephant with a few of us that year.If you look at the front tyre you'l be hard pushed to recognizse it?
It was a one that he had kicking around the garage.It was the right size,it looked like it might do the trick when the weather got white,so in Riks mind it was perfect!!
Problem was though,apart from Riks mind,the bike would be induced into 'a bit of a weave' something that he insited went away over 90!!
When we got back to Blighty I looked up the info on said tyre
Speedway only.
A 'Rik moment' sadly missed.
Sorry Maverick I seam to be hi-jacking your thread here but have just found a picture of Ricks R100T, (its the second bike back) at the time Rick had my S fairing, now back in its original place on my 80/7. The other pic is of Rick (looking his usual mad mad self) with one of his other bikes a 75/6 called Kermit ready to set off for the Elephant Rally.
Just butting in.Rik came to the Elephant with a few of us that year.If you look at the front tyre you'l be hard pushed to recognizse it?
It was a one that he had kicking around the garage.It was the right size,it looked like it might do the trick when the weather got white,so in Riks mind it was perfect!!
Problem was though,apart from Riks mind,the bike would be induced into 'a bit of a weave' something that he insited went away over 90!!
When we got back to Blighty I looked up the info on said tyre
Speedway only.
A 'Rik moment' sadly missed.
Welcom Nobbynumbnuts.
Yes Rik will be sadly missed by many, I rode with him many times, he tought me much about riding bikes, made me smile and shake my head alot.
Rik made me understand life should not be taken too seriously, he had alot to do with the way and why I ride today, tomorrow and every day.
Gods speed Rik.......
funny thing - I showed this picture to a mate of mine - Boris aka Mark Titterton - who I knew couriered from Guildford on BMW's
Knocked him for six a bit as he shared a house with Rik , Colin, Dave and Marishka
Mark reckons his bike was probably in this line up of bikes....
Mark was wondering if anyone from those days is around on the forum and if you'd like to get in touch - his email is [email protected]
Knocked him for six a bit as he shared a house with Rik , Colin, Dave and Marishka
Mark reckons his bike was probably in this line up of bikes....
Mark was wondering if anyone from those days is around on the forum and if you'd like to get in touch - his email is [email protected]
Glad Rik could ride with in my thread and sounds like a solid guy to have known 
Last night I replaced the sidestand spring as it's been flopping away and hitting the ground in corners
What a bugger to do, first tried brute force with a icehockey lace hook - no luck
Then tried the penny method by putting a penny in each coil. Sounds simple huh - not Getting that bloody pennies into the coils are nearly as hard as getting the spring on the sidestand! A bit of fiddling and it went on in the end. It snaps back so hard now I am worried it will take my foot off
Last night I replaced the sidestand spring as it's been flopping away and hitting the ground in corners
What a bugger to do, first tried brute force with a icehockey lace hook - no luck
Then tried the penny method by putting a penny in each coil. Sounds simple huh - not
Getting that bloody pennies into the coils are nearly as hard as getting the spring on the sidestand! A bit of fiddling and it went on in the end. It snaps back so hard now I am worried it will take my foot off 
It snaps back so hard now I am worried it will take my foot off
Don't worry, it's waiting - waiting for the summer, when you move the bike in the garage while wearing flip flops and shorts and then it'll seize the moment - you'll get it full on in the shin.
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2002
- Messages
- 12,651
- Reaction score
- 1,241
So last night I decided to test my new 2nd hand timing light. However I was intrigued by a previous post by the airhead guru (thanks Neil a very straight forward procedure) and had to give it a try……
Simple yes
…..wel it should be if you don’t get confused with clock wise and anti-clock wise turning the bean can doh !! For some reason I kept on turning the beancan advancing the timing and could just not understand why the bloody S mark would not appear when the plug spark. Eventually I stepped back looked at the whole thing and realised I am being stupid. Now it took the best of 2 minutes to do and spot on. I proceeded to put the timing light on and it is sweet. The bike has been running a fair bit in advance and the change is major from what it was. It pulls brilliant now on low down revs and the revs pick up much better with more power throughout the range
The only strange thing this morning was that it now struggles to start again
Since the carb rebuild it would fire up on the 1st or 2nd turn, now that the timing is spot on it turns over good but does not fire up straight away. I need to adjust the idling again as this is now to slow after retarding the timing. It was getting late last night so will stick the carb balancer on tonight when I get home to adjust it a bit. Not sure if this would influence the starting though? I don’t know enough about timing etc and the potential mishaps that can happen.
Could someone also edjumacate me on timing in terms of when it says 3 degrees BTDC etc? I take it the 1979 R100T timing should be set from 0 degrees? I have a timing gun where I can set the degrees and unfortunately not afraid to use it…..incorrectly I might add
Steptoe said:
Simple yes
…..wel it should be if you don’t get confused with clock wise and anti-clock wise turning the bean can doh !! For some reason I kept on turning the beancan advancing the timing and could just not understand why the bloody S mark would not appear when the plug spark. Eventually I stepped back looked at the whole thing and realised I am being stupid. Now it took the best of 2 minutes to do and spot on. I proceeded to put the timing light on and it is sweet. The bike has been running a fair bit in advance and the change is major from what it was. It pulls brilliant now on low down revs and the revs pick up much better with more power throughout the range The only strange thing this morning was that it now struggles to start again
Since the carb rebuild it would fire up on the 1st or 2nd turn, now that the timing is spot on it turns over good but does not fire up straight away. I need to adjust the idling again as this is now to slow after retarding the timing. It was getting late last night so will stick the carb balancer on tonight when I get home to adjust it a bit. Not sure if this would influence the starting though? I don’t know enough about timing etc and the potential mishaps that can happen.Could someone also edjumacate me on timing in terms of when it says 3 degrees BTDC etc? I take it the 1979 R100T timing should be set from 0 degrees? I have a timing gun where I can set the degrees and unfortunately not afraid to use it…..incorrectly I might add
Similar threads
