R1100S Sterter Motor Niggle

GORILA

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Got a small problem with starting my bike and would welcome any suggestions.

I removed the gearbox final drive and rear wheel, all in one so that I could grease the gearbox splines and check things over. After I got everything back together I found that the bike/ starter motor now only starts when I pill the clutch lever in.
Previously the bike started normally whether the clutch was in or out.
Any ideas?
 
Slip of the finger... I meant R1100GS...
 
If I remember correctly the sidestand loom runs up the back of the starter worth checking if its caught where it shouldnt be

Also I presume the RID and Neutral light are working as normal?
 
Hopefully you didn't lather the splines in grease as the clutch will start slipping when it's flung off......DAMHIK:rolleyes:
 
If the Neutral Light is not working as well it sounds like the Neutral Switch got disconnected.

If your R1100S is the same as the R1100RT, the Neutral Switch connector is on the top LH side mounted on the rubber mount which also mounts the Sidestand connector and the CO Pot adjuster.

The rubber mount is just below the middle of the Rider's seat.

From top to bottom on the rubber mount, the connectors are:
Neutral
Sidestand
CO Pot.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. Indeed the neutral light isn't working, which I hadn't noticed previously. Everything else seems ok.
Still I can't figure why the clutch lever would affect the operation of the starter motor.
I'll tinker with it again later in the week. I'm fed up with taking the tank on and off!

Regards.
 
Is the rider info display for the gear working ??

If not you have forgot to reconnect the Gear position indicator

You "May not" need to take the tank off (Just lift it up at the back)

look for a round black cable about 5 mm in diameter at the rear left corner of the tank and follow it forward it should connect to a rectangular shape connector just at the rear area of the alternator around where the angled downtube meets the subframe

The starter motor is disabled when no neutral light is on But by pulling the clutch there is a bypass circuit for a quick start if you stall in traffic for instance
 
Excellent, I'll have a look at it tomorrow. Regards...
 
No success so far!

Fuse 1 seems ok. Swapped it round with another to be sure, though no change. Brake light works ok in any case.
Side stand switch also appears to be working ok. With the stand extended, fuel pump doesn't prime. Pull the side stand back and the fuel pump primes again.
I would be surprised if the neutral switch from the gearbox was the cause as I took off the gearbox and final drive off in one and I didn't disturb the clutch switch. However I wonder if I disturbed any of the the wiring when I lifted the subframe.

On top of this little problem I now have an ABS failure after disconnecting the rear ABS sensor plug once more. I have got the battery/ bike on a trickle charger, in case that solves this issue.

I'll keep tinkering a while longer, before giving up and seeking professional help. Should have learnt my lesson by now. Tinkering costs me money....!!!!!!!!!!!

Regards...
 
Sounds like something very simple.
As has been said earlier check your circuit from the gear position sensor at rear of your box to the connector under the tank area.
But before you bugger about with this:
Make sure your battery is charged then as per your last post, I reckon it will start now with the clutch pulled in and side stand up.

You just won't know what gear you are in as the gear position sensor is disabled.
 
So how did you get the gearbox out without disconnecting the Gear position indicator/neutral switch which is on the rear of the gearbox????
 
I took the gearbox off with the drive shaft, final drive and rear wheel all in one. Just had to disconnect the plugs for the gearbox and neutral switch sensors from the frame connectors. Used a trolley jack to ease it all back out and further used a ratchet strap from a joist to support the wheel when I put it all back in.
That way I didn't disturb the sensors at the back of the gearbox...I suspect worn plug connectors may be the cause. I'll keep tinkering...
 
Flatdog, I agree, as always it'll be something simple. I can still start the bike with the clutch pulled in, so it's no great problem and I still have my gear indicator display working. Regards...
 
I took the gearbox off with the drive shaft, final drive and rear wheel all in one. ..

You can't do that on an 1100S ? The swing arm is attached to the rear subframe which must be removed before you can get to the gearbox. Also the gear indicator switch is a push and click fit on the 1100S/1150 models, make sure seated and fully pushed home in place
 
You can't do that on an 1100S ? The swing arm is attached to the rear subframe which must be removed before you can get to the gearbox. Also the gear indicator switch is a push and click fit on the 1100S/1150 models, make sure seated and fully pushed home in place

Ignore all that, just noticed your second post in the thread :D
 
Just read all this very quickly. My first thought was, "is the bike in gear?". Presumably if the electrics think it is in gear, you'd only get joy starting if the clutch was pulled in?

Just tell me to sod off if I've misunderstood
 
....so the bike starts ok (but only with the clutch pulled) and you can see the gears when you go through the gearbox.

No neutral light to be seen. Yes?

To me it seems your problem is with this circuit - the plug under tank to gearbox only has a few wires to check and one of these may have broken or have a bent plug pin..easily done as the pins are very flimsy.

If you have no gear readout at all then check the gear sensor at rear of gearbox which may not be fitted correctly.

Of course I'm assuming you haven't disturbed other parts of the wiring system.:augie
 
Thank you all. Not had the chance to do anything further. Life has taken over!
I'll check the plugs over etc,

Regards...
 


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