My R1150GS has cut out and now refuses to start. It did start, then cut out as I put it into gear. I can hear the fuel system prime and the starter turns over but it doesn't fire. The side stand switch appears to function (test described in this website) by moving halfway up in gear I can hear the fuel system prime. Maybe I still need to bypass this switch? The clutch cut out is making it's click noise (very quiet) so I assume that is ok. It has recently had a new Ignition Trigger / Hall Effect Sensor, but has done a few miles since that was fitted. Any advise would be appreciated. Of course it would let me down on just before a rare planned trip!! Thanks all.
R1150GS Cut out
- Thread starter CarlH55
- Start date
Fuel pump priming is a good sign. It points to the basic engine electrical system as doing what it should.
Put your finger on the either injector as you crank the engine.
You should be able to feel the solenoid operate.
If it doesn’t then it’s pointing to a possible hall sensor failure.
If it does then you are looking for missing fuel or ignition.
So leaving the fuel line and the electrical connector connected to the injector, undo the two screws securing the injector to the throttle body and gently prise the injector out of the throttle body and place it in a suitable container to catch the fuel. Now as you crank the engine you should see a fine spray of fuel from the injector. If you don’t then missing fuel possibly a hose off inside the fuel tank.
if you get fuel, then next check for spark from the spark plugs.
if you get no spark, and it’s a single spark, it could be your coil pack has failed.
Put your finger on the either injector as you crank the engine.
You should be able to feel the solenoid operate.
If it doesn’t then it’s pointing to a possible hall sensor failure.
If it does then you are looking for missing fuel or ignition.
So leaving the fuel line and the electrical connector connected to the injector, undo the two screws securing the injector to the throttle body and gently prise the injector out of the throttle body and place it in a suitable container to catch the fuel. Now as you crank the engine you should see a fine spray of fuel from the injector. If you don’t then missing fuel possibly a hose off inside the fuel tank.
if you get fuel, then next check for spark from the spark plugs.
if you get no spark, and it’s a single spark, it could be your coil pack has failed.
Thank you Ian,
I will try all these checks.
Strip the loom tape up to the the clocks and find the common earth points
What you should find is that the grounds are green with Verdigris and maybe a broken off wire or two !
I had this with a bike a lot of years back and that is what it was! Engine starts and runs and cuts out if you put it into gear
You may be seeing dim clock lights or dash lights not doing what they should be doing as well!
I found the thread now
Side stand switch issue, or maybe worse? Tricky problem.
My side stand switch got smashed when my bike arrived in the US lying on her side in the container with the side stand bent to buggery. We removed the switch and joined the wires so that the bike would run and bar a few splutters when I had to jiggle the wires a bit all was well. Until this...
www.ukgser.com
Thank you for your suggestions. I am slowly working through stuff (with my limited talent!). It seems I have zero spark. It has only done a handful of miles since the new Halls Effect Sensor and cut out dead on going into gear! Mystery. Could it be the HTCoil? Is this to be another summer problem solving instead of riding...........
My only advice is to take things slowly
Diagnose and don;t just load a parts cannon and fire it at the bike !!
So you fitted a new hall sensor kit Quite possibly the Connector was not clipped fully home
I think I would strip off the tank and check the HES connector and the HES wiring in case it is nipped and grounded
Check that the coil connector is snugged home Do small things one at a time and find out the mystery!
Basically tick boxes that a, b, c etc are not the cause of failure Once the box is ticked move to the next check etc etc
I remember with Aidans something the neutral light was grounding or being a ground for something else and many dash lights were lit dimly because of the corroded grounds
Thank you for your advice.
I have isolated the side stand cut out switch.
Changed the coil.
Checked the injectors are working.
But sadly still no spark.
Next stop, check the clutch cut off switch for continuity, which I think is tank off again.
I am beginning to fear it may be the new Hall Effect Sensor has failed!
The clutch switch is only needed to start the bike whilst in gear.
You don’t need to lift the tank to check it.
Just go into the fuse box and remove the starter relay (big yellow relay)
To Check clutch switch
- Resistance check no power to bike
- Measure between 86 (clutch switch ) and earth
- Press clutch lever the value should go from open to short circuit.
Thank you for this test, I have done as you advised and my switch is good. I wonder if it is possible that the relay itself is the problem? Thanks again.
If your starter motor engages and the engine turns when you press the start button, then the start relay is fine.
You haven’t said whether your bike is a single spark or twin spark. I’m assuming it’s a single spark.
I’m leaning towards a Hall sensor failure. Though why a replacement would fail so soon is unusual But not impossible.
From what I can gather on the progress so far:-
Fuel pump primes on ignition.
Engine rotates on start button.
No spark
fuel Injectors are being triggered.
You have replaced the HT coil and still no spark.
I’m assuming that you have checked the hall sensor connection as suggested in post #7
There are two parts to the Hall sensor. One triggers the HT coil, the other trigger the injectors.
I’m leaning towards a Hall sensor failure. Though why a replacement would fail so soon is unusual But not impossible.
From what I can gather on the progress so far:-
Fuel pump primes on ignition.
Engine rotates on start button.
No spark
fuel Injectors are being triggered.
You have replaced the HT coil and still no spark.
I’m assuming that you have checked the hall sensor connection as suggested in post #7
There are two parts to the Hall sensor. One triggers the HT coil, the other trigger the injectors.
Yes, single spark.
Progress is as you list. The injectors are working so maybe the second part of the Hall sensor?
Thanks again.
Also the coil connection I had one many many years ago and apart from a HES failure it also had a broken receiver for the bullet on the loom side
So it would spark if you pushed up on the cable But not if you let it hang
I will check that, thanks. It is increasingly looking like HES failure I think. Do you (or anyone) know if there is somewhere to have a HES refurbished / rewired here in the UK? I understand this is possible in the US.
There's a fella in Cyprus that a few from here, including myself, have bought from via a well-known auction site.
Today I have noted that with the ignition turned on, in neutral, the fuel gauge and the gear indicator are working, but when I put it into gear both go off! I am stumped, does anyone have experience of this. Thank you all for your help.
Side stand up or down
If it is down that is the correct action
If it is down that is the correct action
Although the side stand switch appeared to be functioning correctly (fuel priming as I moved it up and down) in desperation I have isolated it (I think) by joining the red and white wires.
I think you should return it to Standard wiring ! Because it ain;t working now!
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