r1150gs year 2002,fork seals

fizzer

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does anybody know the sizes of these seals ,mine have only been in a few months and are weeping already,i was going to ring the bearing and seal place local to me and see if i could get any double lipped seals or a seal that is ever so slightly tighter in the center where the stanchion goes through
and yip the stanchions are in good shape no pitting .
 
does anybody know the sizes of these seals ,mine have only been in a few months and are weeping already,i was going to ring the bearing and seal place local to me and see if i could get any double lipped seals or a seal that is ever so slightly tighter in the center where the stanchion goes through
and yip the stanchions are in good shape no pitting .

This site suggests 35x48x11
 
thanks very much mate ,i will see if i can get some double lipped seals also i think i will put a 20w fork oil in too
 
thanks very much mate ,i will see if i can get some double lipped seals also i think i will put a 20w fork oil in too

Changed mine out twice in the last couple of years but always seem to have a small leak. Please let us know if you find a better replacement
 
The fork seals are only their to stop the oil from coming out, the oil is only their to lubricate the stanchions, not for damping, thicker oil will not do anything,

They can leak if they are over filled, or have too much air in them, you’re supposed to bleed out the air once new seals are fitted, there’s a screw near the top if I remember correctly,

You may already know this of course.
 
yes you are correct mate a tiny alan bolt at the top to get the air out.

If the air hasn’t been bled out could the pressure cause the seal to weep ?? Just had the same problem with my right fork seal despite the fact that according to the service history the seals were changed 12 months ago.
 
well really it should not make any difference ,because if you draw out the stanchions ,if you look closely you will see a tiny hole half way up the stanchion ,but yes taking out the small alan bolt at the top does help to put it back together.
tomorrow i am collecting two new double lipped seals ,and as i said i will put some heavier fork oil in too 450 ml in each leg.
 
well really it should not make any difference ,because if you draw out the stanchions ,if you look closely you will see a tiny hole half way up the stanchion ,but yes taking out the small alan bolt at the top does help to put it back together.
tomorrow i am collecting two new double lipped seals ,and as i said i will put some heavier fork oil in too 450 ml in each leg.
Keep us updated mate.......would be interested in these seals if you are successful :thumb2
 
Is it possible the seals are installed upside down, as happened to me? The garter spring is facing out, not in, as far as I remember. This could be opposite to what you might expect. I remember trying the vent screw idea, no improvement, then I inverted the seals, perfect.

The photo below is from internet, but it looks a lot like one from Steptoe some time back....
 

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The photo below is from internet, but it looks a lot like one from Steptoe some time back....

yes it is... and the seal is the wrong way up. It's a set up shot showing me removing the old seal, but which is in fact a new seal (artistic license) as it made it easier to photograph single handedly and in the process i didn't notice it was upside down. :D
 
well done today double lipped seals from the bearing supplier,450ml of 15w oil in each leg all seems fine now ,i will check them in a few days to see if any misting on the stanchions
 
Well, I did not mean to confuse things with that photo. I know that mine leaked when I renewed them, I reversed them and that cured the leakage. :blast
 


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