R1150RS rear caliper.

[manfred]

Can the rear wheel be removed without removing the caliper?
Both my caliper mounting bolts look to be seized, and one has the head stripped.
If I can get the wheel off at least I'll be able to apply heat directly to the bolts at the mounting bracket threads.

Alternatively can I remove the caliper from its mounting bracket?

Cheers.

 

[Welshman]

No, you have to remove the caliper or the disc carrier, cannot imagine either will be free if the other is siezed.... sorry

 

[fatnfast]

A few years back I was removing the rear wheel on my 1150gs for a tyre change and in a rush forgot to remove the rear calliper. With the wheel loose I moved it side to side which allowed the disc to push the pads/pistons back in and the wheel came out no problem.
I cant comment on an RS though, sorry. Its got to be worth a try in your situation, but I wouldn't advise it normally.

 

[Welshman]

A few years back I was removing the rear wheel on my 1150gs for a tyre change and in a rush forgot to remove the rear calliper. With the wheel loose I moved it side to side which allowed the disc to push the pads/pistons back in and the wheel came out no problem.
I cant comment on an RS though, sorry. Its got to be worth a try in your situation, but I wouldn't advise it normally.

Must admit never tried it worth a shot, but you might soak the bleed nipple and take some brake fluid out as you do it

 

[fatnfast]

Must admit never tried it worth a shot, but you might soak the bleed nipple and take some brake fluid out as you do it

That would help for sure. But if the nipple looks seized as well, you may be able to remove the inner pad to give you more' wiggle' room. Also you could put an inch thick piece of wood under the centre stand to raise the rear wheel height which will increase the room to manoeuvre the wheel out.

 

[manfred]

I shall have a look tomorrow, good point about raising the back wheel.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Do the old trick of tapping in a Spline bit BUT not to heavily just firm strikes no big swings in case you break the calliper lugs

If you have to drill out the bolt its just mild steel (hence why it's now rounded) Centre it and go right through Remember the threads are in the calliper carrier before you get too physical with the chisel or anything similar!

On reading it again Its an 1150 which means you can knock out the pad holding pin and drop the pads out to give you some wiggle room and If you remove the exhaust silencer (Big Clamp under right side cylinder and bolt into left rear foot peg from wheel side), you will have even more room!

 

[Welshman]

If (you are hamfisted) like me you strip a carrier thread...... you can always put a steel inesrt in...

 

[manfred]

If the nipple and adaptor are both seized I'll just remove the banjo.
As far as freeing off the carrier mounting bolts, I'll just apply heat to the carrier around the bolts, that should free em off.
Going by the fisch they are M10x25 so I'll probly replace em with stainless allen bolts with a bit of copperslip.
At the end of the day, the rear caliper only has to work for the mot, when riding I never use the rear brake except to give my throttle hand a rest at lights.

 

[manfred]

Well, had a go this morning.
First tried the bleed nipple, no problem, loosened straight off. So tighten it up again 'til I need to bleed stuff.
Took the wheel nuts out, tilted the towards the exhaust a bit and it dropped straight out
Had to undo the exhaust rear hanger to allow room to get the wheel out.
Wheel is now in the garden ready to have the oil washed off

 

[Timolgra]

At the end of the day, the rear caliper only has to work for the mot, when riding I never use the rear brake except to give my throttle hand a rest at lights.

And some of us only use one finger for typing........

 

[manfred]

You've lost me?

 

[Welshman]

You've lost me?

Satire I fink....

 

[Welshman]

Well, had a go this morning.
First tried the bleed nipple, no problem, loosened straight off. So tighten it up again 'til I need to bleed stuff.
Took the wheel nuts out, tilted the towards the exhaust a bit and it dropped straight out
Had to undo the exhaust rear hanger to allow room to get the wheel out.
Wheel is now in the garden ready to have the oil washed off

I assume, my issues/ suggestions are not helped by me having ADV suspension with GS centre stand....

 

[manfred]

Satire I got, reason I didn't.
I assume that it is a comment on my braking habits.
As a general rule I don't use use brakes until I need to stop, any slowing is done by the engine.
The exception being when a bloody cager does something stupid.

Well the wheel and disc are clean and look a lot better.
Just in time before in got dark and the heavens opened

 

[manfred]

Nipped over to a mates and borrowed a torch to get a good look at this output seal.
Weeping from the inner and outer edges.
Weeping around the drain bolt, so that needs a new washer.
The hole where the ABS sensor would go has oil in it, so presumably airflow over it will be sucking oil out of there as well?

Next job is to drain it and see how much fluid it has.

 

[fatnfast]

The hole where the abs sensor passes through will allow oil out. Inside the hole are rubber O-rings to seal the sensor when fitted. You obviously wouldn't run the bike without the sensor fitted of course. If your big output seal is leaking then I would pop it out to check its not the big bearing behind it about to give up the ghost. I guess your going to have to replace the seal anyway. Im probably teaching you to suck eggs, but don't forget to use GL5 gear oil when filling.
Steptoe has a simple guide to what to check in the stickys for this section on the FD.

 

[Timolgra]

The hole where the ABS sensor would go has oil in it, so presumably airflow over it will be sucking oil out of there as well?

.

If you're for real .........you'd best subscribe to the forum for info before you spend a fortune

 

[manfred]

Why wouldn't I be for real?
Interesting statement... basically give us money and we'll give you more info
But since I'm a doley, all my spare cash has just gone on a replacement seal.
The rest is earmarked for mot, tax and insurance.
No more is available until 10th Jan.
I would expect the easiest option would be to get an old sensor to fill the hole.

GL5 oil? whats that then? something different to standard 90w?

Bin strough Steptoe's guide plus a few others.
Bearing should be ok, no movement, but I'll be checking that on Friday when I take the old seal out..
Only really has to do 60 miles over the next two weeks, by then I will hopefully have a replacement fd which will be rebuilt and shimmed correctly.

 

[DrFarkoff]

GL5 is "basically" a high shear strength oil

GL4 is not and you will fubar your gearbox or FD if you use it in there!