r1150rt input shaft

fizzer

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68 thousand miles and i think the input shaft may need changing,on tick over when cold it has a chatter,pull the clutch lever in and it goes away,once hot the bike does not have this noise at all.
so really my question is once the box is out ,and yes i would change the clutch at the same time,whats the job like to strip the box and fit a new input shaft.
 
68 thousand miles and i think the input shaft may need changing,on tick over when cold it has a chatter,pull the clutch lever in and it goes away,once hot the bike does not have this noise at all.
so really my question is once the box is out ,and yes i would change the clutch at the same time,whats the job like to strip the box and fit a new input shaft.
Difficult to answer,
1150 boxes are not hard to strip and rebuild ,but,
How capable are you?
Do you have the tools to check /adjust cluster shimming if needed.?
Do you have pullers/ bearing separators / hydraulic press to change the bearings ?
The clymer manual is pretty good.
 
68 thousand miles and i think the input shaft may need changing,on tick over when cold it has a chatter,pull the clutch lever in and it goes away,once hot the bike does not have this noise at all.
so really my question is once the box is out ,and yes i would change the clutch at the same time,whats the job like to strip the box and fit a new input shaft.

Why do you think it is the input shaft ?

have you any sparkles in your oil when dropped ?

Are you using a low viscosity fully synth oil in the box ?

What I am trying to say is that "Some" of them do that I had 3 or 4 that people came to see me with that did exactly the same thing and one guy went as far as to have the input shaft replaced with a brand new one and it still did it

Get a "recovery to home" breakdown card and have a spare box sitting to go in would be my advice

Solution at present? Do a throttle sync 1st then Earplugs or If you don;t wear them Slight pressure on the clutch if it is doing it until that magic temp
 
ok fellas,thanks food for thought,to be honest its just my winter user bike,so i may just put up with it for time being
 
Did this on my 1200 Hexhead with the same symptoms, but in my case the 1200 has a failing pressed steel cage around the input shaft torsion tamper (it uses conical spring washers in a stack inside the cage rather than an open coil spring).

Biggest hassle was removing the gearbox. The internals were easy to do following the official BMW Reprom.
 
ok fellas,thanks food for thought,to be honest its just my winter user bike,so i may just put up with it for time being
For interest sake? Why would you go for an Input shaft as the fail point??

It is annoying but at least it goes away

the time to look further into it, is when it gets louder and more "ever present"
 


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