R1200GSA Rear Caliper not floatin'!

(RIP) Bin Ridin

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So, back brake dragging a bit, rear caliper not floating...

Took it off, and found the little bellows on the main pin torn. Hard to know how but 120,000kms is a good distance and lots happened getting there..

The pin is 9mm dia.

I don't see this part on the OEM fiche, does anyone know where one might be bought?

Thanks,

Bin
 

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I don't think you need a new pin. You need to get some wet and dry or light emery tape and clean all the crap off the pin . Order a new bellows / Boot from Joe duffys and prior to fitting it put a film of red rubber grease or silicone grease on the pin. Make sure when you fit the new boot that it sits over the little ridge at the end to keep all the road crap from getting in as when this happens it coats the sliding pin and messes up the whole sliding floating action.
Hope this helps.
Cheers
Dub 24
 
Ok bin I've fully woken upnow and reread your post . I think I might have got the wrong end of the stick. If it's the boots your looking for they are the same part number as my 1150 if your 1200 is an older model. If this is the case I think I have some lying around and your welcome to them if they are the right ones.
Cheers
Dub24
 
Thanks for advice, I found the bellows on-line in Motobins, and the number for 1150 is same as for 1200.... price a little steep... i only need the short bellows, not the long one....

Dub 24 - If you have one near you, I could call over to see if it looks like the correct one? Or could you send me photos? I'll pm ya.

Anyhow, I cleaned and greased it and put it back on, ok for the next while.
 

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are you not more concerned about the broken caliper piston?
 
Bear in mind that if the caliper hasn't been cleaned and serviced regularly then the pistons are unlikely to work well. It's at least worth cleaning them with some soapy water and applying small amount red rubber grease to piston sides before relocating after cleaning. Afterwards check the pistons work properly
 
Good advice thanks. The pistons moved in easily by finger pressure when I took caliper off. What was more difficult was to separate the caliper and the hanger. The smaller pin was free (I think it is just a steady and it is in a rubber sleeve, not a bush like the bigger one. Anyhow, the trick is to unscrew the smaller pin from the hanger and this lets you turn / twist the hanger around the bigger pin.

I think I'll get the parts for an overhaul at next pad change...
 
growing up playing of cast steel calipers on cars, I hadn't really thought about what happens on cheap alloy bike ones that are left to fend for themselves for too long...

I have 25 year old Suzuki I acquired with brakes that are sticking a lot... A mate was saying it corrosion behind the seals but I dismissed it, thinking he was being a little odd in his thinking. So being rather lazy and not actually really planning on using it I thought I could rather clean up the sliding pin and just work the pistons back and forth and all would be good with the world. The rear got over itself but the front just wouldn't (and what made it feel worse was the sliding bits on the front were corrosion free and lubed up before I started !!!)

Another year of sitting doing nothing and it didn't want to push round the garage easily (even after multiple attempts pushing the caliper back and forth and pumping it back out), so I decided right pal... I'm going to unbolt the front caliper, get those pistons almost popped out and clean everything up with a Dremel and light weight wire brush. Loads of fun with furry aluminum round the pistons, whilst the actual pistons were in a state with rubber / corrosion / filth not wanting to come off. Then to clean off all the crap I needed to get the pistons to spin a bit so I could get round the back... My shortcut took forever. especially with one so stuck it took a lot of effort to get it to move in and out let alone spun round to get the gunk off.

Anyway from the outside all cleaned up with the pistons sparking and the visible fur all gone... and they were still sticking ! Still no plans for it to go anywhere, and we roll on another year in a dry garage. However this time I need to get it MOT'd and registered before Boris makes life hard. But this time I can't even move the bike. So going back to what my mate said I thought - he may have a point !!! With the possibility of actually riding it, I thought a fluid change would be a good idea by now, so not much to lose popping the pistons out and taking a good look at the corrosion on the inside of the caliper (where the fluid sits) except there wasn't any !!

With the pistons out the actual seals looked a right state.... and so it turns out the real reason they were stuck and why moving the pistons back and forth, cleaning the sliding caliper pins, having all the external parts clean, together with shiny pistons, had NO desirable affects at all is entirely due to the build up of corrosion in the caliper body behind the piston seals.... They push the seals out jamming the pistons solid... hard to believe, until you strip it properly and find the pistons surfaces and the caliper bores are like new... But after removing all the fur in the seal groves the pistons almost fall in and out on their own !!!
 
Luckily, the brake is working and releasing well, so ok until I need to change the pads, then I'll pop the pistons.

I did have an experience with a friend of friend's R90S - front brakes binding. Long story, old bike, left in shed. Anyhow, friend fitted recon calipers, new discs - discs had cracks due to overheating due to binding way back when bike was last used. New bits did not help even after adjusting caliper alignment to discs . I tried opening bleed nipple, brakes became free. Hmm. Closed bleed nipple, wheel still free. Pull brake lever, released it and wheel stuck solid. Released bleed nipple, wheel free again. I recommended new master cylinder and hoses to be sure of fixing the problem.
 


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