Will make some interesting reading, interesting to see how it behaves at speed or more loaded up.
Well, I had a good blast this afternoon, and it seemed good down the bumpy lanes.... but more testing needed
R1200GSA upgrade to Ohlins or Wlbers ESA
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Well, I had a good blast this afternoon, and it seemed good down the bumpy lanes.... but more testing needed
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Well they must be good and surely better than the soft stock shocks.
Yeah, they are good.... and more importantly, they are consistant and reliable.
If you have the spare cash must admit the full tractive system is the bollox , works straight out of the box with all the advantages of full adjustment (if needed) , I increased lo speed comp by 2 click f and r as I like a taught bike.
Full esa / auto pre load with factory connections etc , out with old and in with the new.
Full esa / auto pre load with factory connections etc , out with old and in with the new.
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Quite strange how all the bike makers, usually use the shocks that they are happy for the penny pinchers, yet have to spend zillions on marketing, if they put Touratech shocks as standard on the GS given the hefty price already, they would fly out the shops, less marketing needed, and less breakdowns of shocks.
To be honest it would be good see an option on the bike configurator at BMW when buying a new bike that would give you the option , with the discount given to new buyers , for the tractive set up from new.
IE , Spoke wheels £400 on new order / £1800 - £2000 ( bit of a guess) if bought after ……...if only Carlsburg ran BMW lol
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The ONLY reason I didn't go with the Touratech Tractive Shocks, was the continued dependence on electronics (and risk of failure)....
When the Ohlins TTX Manual shocks are not setup properly, it is a pain in the arse, very time consuming and a nuisance to be honest.
But, when they are set up properly (I recommend get straight down to a suspension pro tuner to set them up) they're ok. But you still have to fiddle for pre-load adjustment for passengers and luggage.
If I had to make the decision again, knowing how 'not having the right settings' can mess up your whole ride for the day, I'd get the Electronic Touratech Tractive System next time.
It's not that the Ohlins isn't good, it's just too time consuming to get it set up right.... and too easy to fiddle with it and fuck it up again.
If I bought a new R1250GS Adventure, I'd wear the BMW suspension until it started to fail (18 months usually) and then upgrade to the Touratech Tractive stuff.... job done.
You wont be disappointed at all.
Well, I'll have to wait for all that to look forward to.
I won't be changing my R1200 for a while yet. Nothing wrong with it (at the moment)
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Well, I'll have to wait for all that to look forward to.
I won't be changing my R1200 for a while yet. Nothing wrong with it (at the moment)
If I was a gambling man. hmmm
Well I went out on it on Thursday and out on it again tomorrow and it's working 100% and in mint condition. Not far off looking like brand new.
It's got 17,250 very happy miles on the clock and still going strong.
So not even remotely looking at changing it any time soon
A marriage to Goldilocks, she likes it just right, and that's fine by me
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Well I went out on it on Thursday and out on it again tomorrow and it's working 100% and in mint condition. Not far off looking like brand new.
It's got 17,250 very happy miles on the clock and still going strong.
So not even remotely looking at changing it any time soon
A marriage to Goldilocks, she likes it just right, and that's fine by me
My gambling was on Touratech sooner and not later.
My gambling was on Touratech sooner and not later.
Nope, I'd upgrade my bike now before that happened...
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You’re set me off now....
I’ll have to have a play with mine. You say the rear Pre-Load was set back to Zero, and you are 90Kg, is that with all your riding gear on? My front and rear compression and rebound are not far of yours, but like you I have the rear Pre-Load set higher, I cannot remember the exact setting, but definitely not zero. I’m 85Kg with my riding gear on.roamer
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Its good to hear the settings are in a good place now,
compression damping at around 14 click out shouldnt need any tweaking,
if you're curious try a couple of extra clicks out / softer on rebound and see how it feels,
the ttx can be run much softer and maintain control ,
if it gets too soft you will feel the rear getting floaty and fast turn in a little less stable ,
just go back a click at a time until its to your liking,
The ohlins adjustment is linear and 1 click can make a noticeable difference,
compression damping at around 14 click out shouldnt need any tweaking,
if you're curious try a couple of extra clicks out / softer on rebound and see how it feels,
the ttx can be run much softer and maintain control ,
if it gets too soft you will feel the rear getting floaty and fast turn in a little less stable ,
just go back a click at a time until its to your liking,
The ohlins adjustment is linear and 1 click can make a noticeable difference,
Didn't read this until I got back home today...
That's not quite right. Rebound is for 'Fast' and 'Slow' adjustment (and that now doesn't need adjustment). Compression is for 'Hard' and 'Soft' Adjustment. They can be confused and he warned me of this.
But thats EXACTLY what I did, I softened the front a little bit by adjusting front COMPRESSION.
2 x Clicks Softer and it made a huge difference. Front isn't so hard and now balanced much better over bumps.
Think now it's better.
You’re set me off now....
Yep, 90kg with all riding gear on.
How he explained it to me is this.
Imagine a length of pole. Your suspension range is the full length of that pole.
As you wind up the preload, you're reducing that pole length, so now you have less travel to play with.... and much more force is needed to get the spring working.
This done unnecessarily, is just reducing your shock range. At 90kg you need about 30% sag.... and he measured that at ZERO preload. (If you wind up your preload you may only have 20% or 15% sag, which means your rebound has less range when it needs to extend the suspension) Less range = less traction.
Correct 30% sag means your shock is now working at full stroke range for your weight, and then compression and rebound can be adjusted.
He said Rebound is linked to Sag. So that should stay at his settings.
He said Compression can now be adjusted by me for Hard or Soft preferences, as I see fit....
I adjusted my front forks as they were two clicks too hard. Now its balanced over fast bumps in turns.
If you copy my settings it will feel weird at first, because your changing the geometry of the bike. But stick with it and adapt to the new settings, and see if it makes the bike better? Let me know.
So after much more testing today. These are my settings so far:-
Front Compression = 16 Clicks
Front Rebound = 11 Clicks
Rear Compression = 13 Clicks
Rear Rebound = 14 Clicks
Front Compression = 16 Clicks
Front Rebound = 11 Clicks
Rear Compression = 13 Clicks
Rear Rebound = 14 Clicks
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