R1250GS calliper bolt length

I remain unconvinced. To my mind regardless of how minimal the movement that needs to be imparted to the pistons, there is a difference between simply putting them in contact with the pads and actually exerting useful amounts of force to get the level of friction required. In this sense pushing on the piston with liquid is like using a metal rod to apply pressure, while doing so with any gas in the system is akin to trying apply pressure to the piston with a rod made out of foam rubber! After all, is that not the reason why we have to bleed brakes to ensure there is no air in the system?

I’m inclined to agree. The gas is able to compress before a useful working pressure is built up, irrespective of whether the fluid is moving anywhere.


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I remain unconvinced. To my mind regardless of how minimal the movement that needs to be imparted to the pistons, there is a difference between simply putting them in contact with the pads and actually exerting useful amounts of force to get the level of friction required. In this sense pushing on the piston with liquid is like using a metal rod to apply pressure, while doing so with any gas in the system is akin to trying to apply pressure to the piston with a rod made out of foam rubber! After all, is that not the reason why we have to bleed brakes to ensure there is no air in the system?

Pressure is pressure (unless your system is a gas system, where dynamics play a part, dependent on the volume of the system).

You apply a set force to the lever - you get a set force applied from the caliper. makes no difference if it is gas or liquid in the pipes.

In the case of a hydraulic system (pistons at each end) - there is negligible dynamic effect (to the extent you can ignore it).

Bleeding air - is done as the thermal expansion is greater than the hyd fluid, and it expands to push out the oil in the reservoir + it will mean that your brake lever must travel to exert the pressure. There is even the danger that it pulls back to the bar! But - that is not FADE.
 
Pressure is pressure (unless your system is a gas system, where dynamics play a part, dependent on the volume of the system).

You apply a set force to the lever - you get a set force applied from the caliper. makes no difference if it is gas or liquid in the pipes.

That is true, however....

Before a pressure sufficient to approach a high braking level is achieved, any gas (air or steam) will have started to compress and will result in longer master cylinder piston travel. In extremis, the master cylinder piston runs out of travel before maximum braking effect if achieved. That's baaaad....
 
That is true, however....

Before a pressure sufficient to approach a high braking level is achieved, any gas (air or steam) will have started to compress and will result in longer master cylinder piston travel. In extremis, the master cylinder piston runs out of travel before maximum braking effect if achieved. That's baaaad....

I covered that - with the sentence you cut out - I think.:D

it will mean that your brake lever must travel to exert the pressure. There is even the danger that it pulls back to the bar! But - that is not FADE.
 
I covered that - with the sentence you cut out - I think.:D

it will mean that your brake lever must travel to exert the pressure. There is even the danger that it pulls back to the bar! But - that is not FADE.

Most people would understand fade to be a reduction in braking efficiency following repeated use. If the heat generated by repeated heavy use leads to gas in the system and this in turn allows the lever to pull back to the bar before maximum braking effect is achieved, then to me that is brake fade. What would you call it?
 
I follow you Blackal from what I can remember from physics.

Don't ride with your fingers covering the brake. 2 reasons.

1. You can drag the pads on the disc.
2. For road riding your first instinct will be to pull the brake when you can steer around the emergency.

Oh, and it is not a 2 stroke :D
 
I covered that - with the sentence you cut out - I think.:D

it will mean that your brake lever must travel to exert the pressure. There is even the danger that it pulls back to the bar! But - that is not FADE.

You did.

:thumb
 
I follow you Blackal from what I can remember from physics.

Don't ride with your fingers covering the brake. 2 reasons.

1. You can drag the pads on the disc.
2. For road riding your first instinct will be to pull the brake when you can steer around the emergency.

Oh, and it is not a 2 stroke :D

See - I've always ridden with two fingers over the top of my lever, and do recognise that there may be an instinctive reaction when not warranted, but - if my fingers are already on the lever, I think I am more likely to apply a gentle pressure (initially) - rather than the 'grab'.

The other reason is better throttle control. I think I started that when I had a 954 Blade which if you sneezed with a normal grip on the throttle........ you'd be off into the pedestrians!

(the lever doesn't move from 'released' when I am riding like that)
 
I'd call that sponginess.

If the "sponginess" appears after heavy repeated use of the brakes and results in you being unable to obtain the same retardation you would normally expect, due to excessive lever travel, then how else can you describe it other than brake fade? If not, what else is brake fade - is it some mysterious reduction in friction between pads and disks once they are thoroughly heated, because I don't see why this would be the case, and suspect that these components would actually work better when hot so long as they are being operated with the same force as when cold.
 
If the "sponginess" appears after heavy repeated use of the brakes and results in you being unable to obtain the same retardation you would normally expect due to excessive lever travel, then how else can you describe it other than brake fade? If not, what else is brake fade - is it some mysterious reduction in friction between pads and disks once they are thoroughly heated, because I don't see why this would be the case, and suspect that these components would actually work better when hot so long as they are being operated with the same force as when cold.

Quite a good explanation here:

https://ebcbrakes.com/articles/what-is-brake-fade/
 
Good reading! They do mention that air in the line could be the cause of fade/sponginess, so I guess that helps to answer that a bit?

What I'm taking from it is that my initial responses to renew the fluid and change to more suitable pads was the correct initial reaction and now using a larger disc is the next step, as the braking experts have advised. :)

'If you experience brake fade on the road or on the track, consider installing an EBC oversize brake kit with larger diameter rotors and curved internal vanes to help with heat dissipation and eliminate unwanted brake fade.'

So I'll make sure I update once I finally get them sorted out. Thanks for the help and the cracking debate lads.
 
Brakes fade due to heat-induced impairment of the pad/disc friction.

Two-phase brake fluid only causes sponginess (and loss of fluid from the reservoir) - not brake fade. IMO

If the "sponginess" appears after heavy repeated use of the brakes and results in you being unable to obtain the same retardation you would normally expect, due to excessive lever travel, then how else can you describe it other than brake fade? If not, what else is brake fade - is it some mysterious reduction in friction between pads and disks once they are thoroughly heated, because I don't see why this would be the case, and suspect that these components would actually work better when hot so long as they are being operated with the same force as when cold.

Excellent - that was the explanation I was after. So contrary to what I thought it is actually a materials issue with the pads at temperatures above what they are designed for.

The very reason that carbo-ceramic discs (and appropriate pads) are used - they limit fade. They generate huge amounts of heat, but what that does to the exotic brake fluid - doesn't reduce their fade-resistance
 
Curved internal vanes - let us know how you get on.

After all the good debate and info - now you're just being silly... I'd like to think you were intelligent enough to understand what I was getting at with the quote in that the larger diameter discs should dissipate more heat.
 
You could chill and just go a bit slower :D ,,,that would sort it :thumb2

I put a new set of braided lines. On the wee paraffin pony the other week , WHAT a difference that makes .
 
You could chill and just go a bit slower :D ,,,that would sort it :thumb2

I put a new set of braided lines. On the wee paraffin pony the other week , WHAT a difference that makes .

That was on my list until I saw it’s fitted with Goodridge braided lines from factory! Pleasant surprise. Haha.


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