R1250GS calliper bolt length

After all the good debate and info - now you're just being silly... I'd like to think you were intelligent enough to understand what I was getting at with the quote in that the larger diameter discs should dissipate more heat.

Silly? Moi? :P
 
I find this string quite interesting. All technical debate, and none of that eh… non-topic stuf.

I've been reading and learning, and from what I have learned this far is:

-- Brake fading: Brakes pads loose their friction due to heath. As long as the brakefluid is not boiling, the pads get their full pressure pressing on the disk, but the friction is reduced due to warm pads.
-- Spongy brakes: There is gas in the system, and you get the spongy feeling since you first have to compress the gas in order to obtain full pressure.


So, if the brakes are cold and stil feels spongy, that loss of braking ability is not fading, and you may loose the brakes due to boiling brake fluid, which is not fading either.

This means that you have to analyze why you loose the brakes before applying a cure. If the brakes loss is due to warmed up pads that looses friction, you need to work on the pads. In this case the brake handle still feels firm, but the friction is gone.

If you loose the brakes and there is this spongy feeling to the handle, this means that there is gas in the system. This must be fixed by either fluid that can handle more heath, or some kind of external cooling must be applied.


When you look at the racing guys, it looks as if their attention goes to cooling the disk and thereby getting lower temperature on the pads seems to me the focus.


Have I gotten this all wrong?
 
I find this string quite interesting. All technical debate, and none of that eh… non-topic stuf.

I've been reading and learning, and from what I have learned this far is:

-- Brake fading: Brakes pads loose their friction due to heath. As long as the brakefluid is not boiling, the pads get their full pressure pressing on the disk, but the friction is reduced due to warm pads.
-- Spongy brakes: There is gas in the system, and you get the spongy feeling since you first have to compress the gas in order to obtain full pressure.


So, if the brakes are cold and stil feels spongy, that loss of braking ability is not fading, and you may loose the brakes due to boiling brake fluid, which is not fading either.

This means that you have to analyze why you loose the brakes before applying a cure. If the brakes loss is due to warmed up pads that looses friction, you need to work on the pads. In this case the brake handle still feels firm, but the friction is gone.

If you loose the brakes and there is this spongy feeling to the handle, this means that there is gas in the system. This must be fixed by either fluid that can handle more heath, or some kind of external cooling must be applied.


When you look at the racing guys, it looks as if their attention goes to cooling the disk and thereby getting lower temperature on the pads seems to me the focus.


Have I gotten this all wrong?

Seems like a pretty decent synopsis! And like you, I think it’s great that there’s been plenty of proper tech chat without any massive off topic rants.


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-- As long as the brakefluid is not boiling,.....

I have always understood that what boils first is the water that your brake fluid has absorbed from the atmosphere over its lifetime. This is the main reason why brake fluid has to be periodically changed.
 
I have always understood that what boils first is the water that your brake fluid has absorbed from the atmosphere over its lifetime. This is the main reason why brake fluid has to be periodically changed.

Yeah, I think that’s why the ‘wet’ boiling temperature is significantly less than the ‘dry’ boiling point. So a reasonable comment!


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Had a set of RT LC discs on my last GSA LC , set of 7.5mm caliper spacers and bobs yer uncle , they do make a difference
 
Had a set of RT LC discs on my last GSA LC , set of 7.5mm caliper spacers and bobs yer uncle , they do make a difference

Nice to hear someone has done similar and with noticeable results.

Edit: When you say they make a difference, in what way did you notice.


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Had a set of RT LC discs on my last GSA LC , set of 7.5mm caliper spacers and bobs yer uncle , they do make a difference

So - they do fit, and are readily available! That's that sorted.

So - just the pads to play about with and braided lines (if they aren't standard fitment).
 
So - they do fit, and are readily available! That's that sorted.

So - just the pads to play about with and braided lines (if they aren't standard fitment).

Pad options are HH EBC or SBS RS/HS pads that I’ve found for the 1250. Nice to know there’s readily available discs rather than going the custom route if I want to save money.

What’s the size of those discs and how much if you don’t mind me asking?


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Nice to hear someone has done similar and with noticeable results.

Edit: When you say they make a difference, in what way did you notice.


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Same calipers, same pads but bigger discs yet brakes felt more powerful and progressive......................once out of warranty will fit them to my current GSA
 
That's helpful to know! Only issue is that they don't do it with pads for the 1250 so I'll maybe see if they can do just the discs, bolts and spacers and then buy the pads separate... Good find, I must've missed them because I was only looking for stuff specific to the 1250.
 


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