R69

To remove the old headlight and associated gubbins, I had to remove the bars - which might need re-chroming :blast.
Four bolts held the rear mudguard on, making it easier to get to the exhaust which I will remove.
The cut-outs in the top-box allow it to fit around the rear shocks, and the exhaust has a cut-out to allow it to fit round the right-hand shock. It's quite well made, and I've some paperwork about it's construction somewhere.
 

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3 days of alternately heating and soaking in WD40, I've got the swinging arm bolt out, complete with pile of black rust and roller bearings.
Still got to get the inner races out. Don't think I can knock them out from the inside using a long drift and a medium-sized lump hammer as the races are quite thin and frayed at the bottom.
I have read that a line of weld carefully applied to the race will see them drop out when they cool down, and I've also read that they cane be carefully drilled out using a Dremel or other small drill.
AS most of my welding looks like bird poo, I may be following the Dremel route.
The swinging arm has no means of being greased, so I shall drill and tap a grease nipple into the middle of the tube between the bearings.

An internal bearing puller / slide hammer combo might shift them. Or failing that a home made version using an appropriately sized rawlbolt. As ever, heat will be your friend.
 
An internal bearing puller / slide hammer combo might shift them. Or failing that a home made version using an appropriately sized rawlbolt. As ever, heat will be your friend.

Not really possible, the bearing race doesn't have a shoulder, it's in-line with the central tube, the housing for the bearings is stepped out from the cross-tube, and the bearing races are recessed.
There was (pre-rust :blast) an inner spacing washer behind the inner bearing race, probably only .5 - 1 mm thick which did protrude beyond the race shoulder, and could have been used to ease the bearing out, but it has mostly rusted away. The inner races are in a frightful condition, as is the exposed tubing wall. I only have blow-lamp heat, which is not enough to heat the fork enough, so I will take it to Derby with me tomorrow as I spotted that they have oxy gear and proper presses there. Failing that I will investigate the 'weld' option, and failing that will look for a better fork.
Got a phone call this afternoon - they've fixed my gearbox already !
Due to the state of the loom, the indifferent starting charecteristics and poor charging circuit, I've ordered one of these
The bike had already been converted to 12 volt, but some of the components look a bit suspect.
 
Not really possible, the bearing race doesn't have a shoulder, it's in-line with the central tube, the housing for the bearings is stepped out from the cross-tube, and the bearing races are recessed.
There was (pre-rust :blast) an inner spacing washer behind the inner bearing race, probably only .5 - 1 mm thick which did protrude beyond the race shoulder, and could have been used to ease the bearing out, but it has mostly rusted away. The inner races are in a frightful condition, as is the exposed tubing wall. I only have blow-lamp heat, which is not enough to heat the fork enough, so I will take it to Derby with me tomorrow as I spotted that they have oxy gear and proper presses there. Failing that I will investigate the 'weld' option, and failing that will look for a better fork.
Got a phone call this afternoon - they've fixed my gearbox already !
Due to the state of the loom, the indifferent starting charecteristics and poor charging circuit, I've ordered one of these
The bike had already been converted to 12 volt, but some of the components look a bit suspect.

Ah - got you.
Hope you get it sorted :thumb2
 
Trip to Derby to collect fettled gearbox, and drop off carbs for overhaul. Took front swinging arm with me, and after some sucking of teeth and comments on the last few owner's lack of grease guns, left that with them as well.
Removed the exhaust today, it breaks into 3 pieces, but you can't take off the nuts from the front sections :blast
Perhaps I'll only get the box coated after all.
 

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Although the footpegs mount off the same engine support bar, they are different lengths, the shorter left-hand one to miss the kickstart, never noticed they were not level when I rode the bike.
 

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pannier rails are a clever mount, coming off the top of the rear shock mountings, the panniers (which I don't have) were secured at the bottom by a half-turn twisty quick release thing.
 

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took the ignition/headlight switch out from the headlight today and started to clean it up. A quick check with a multimeter and I think it should work ok.
Strange looking item.
 

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Only the engine left in the frame, and that's coming out over the weekend when my neighbour can give me a lift with it.
What started off as a 'just fix the gearbox and fork-link' type job has turned into a 'might as well get the frame re-painted while I'm at it' job.
Curse that How Much. :rolleyes:
Will have to look round for a powder coating emporium. Anyone got any recomendations within 50-ish miles of Stoke ?

BMW must have offered loads of different saddle options and infinite saddle positions judging by the number of holes for it to locate.
 

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Bill , for the powder coating, i've just had some work done by,

John Wilkinson

199 crewe rd, Shavington, CW2 5AH

01270 666203,

Very pleased with his work, would use him again,
about £100 For a frame,

he did my rocker covers black £14 each
Rear spring in red £16.00

hope this helps ,Graham
 
Bill , for the powder coating, i've just had some work done by,

John Wilkinson

199 crewe rd, Shavington, CW2 5AH

01270 666203,

Very pleased with his work, would use him again,
about £100 For a frame,

he did my rocker covers black £14 each
Rear spring in red £16.00

hope this helps ,Graham

Thanks for that Graham, I'll go see them during the week.
Engine out later today.
Had a call from Derby, they've managed to rescue my leading link fork, and have pressed new bearings in.
 
Engine out now, I was surprised how little it weighed 50-ish kilos wet.
Here are the bits to be powder coated - plus the leading link which I've yet to collect.
Rear swinging arm might not need doing, and I haven't yet taken the final drive off it.
 

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Bill

well done........:thumb


you won't regret it....:D

just wait till you get those shiny powder-coated bits back!



now about the re-chroming :blast

how much
 
Bill, have you tried Niphos metal finishers, in Crewe

I have most of my plating done there, they make a very good job of
Zinc plating nuts bolts brkts etc,
but they do chrome and nickel too

25 Hope st
Crewe
CW2 7DR

01270214089

hope this is of use

cheers Graham
 
I had a lot of chrome done at |Niphos some years ago. always did a good job and their prices were reasonable too. They also copper plate too before chroming which ensures it doesnt peel off.
 
I had a lot of chrome done at |Niphos some years ago. always did a good job and their prices were reasonable too. They also copper plate too before chroming which ensures it doesnt peel off.

Thanks for that, the bars do need doing and the brackets which hold them on.
Dropped the frame and most of the other bits off today at Wilkinsons for blasting and powder coat.
Found a wheel builder fairly local to me, Sid's Wheels he's called, will go and visit him with the sidecar wheel over the next few days - when I've sussed out how to get it off.
 
Bill, You won't go wrong with Sid's Wheels,

He's just done my R80 GS cross spoked wheels, made a really good job of them,
Highly Recommended. cheers Graham
 
Bill, You won't go wrong with Sid's Wheels,

He's just done my R80 GS cross spoked wheels, made a really good job of them,
Highly Recommended. cheers Graham

That's interesting - Sid's wheels will rebuild BMW cross spokes will he? I want to get my 1100's wheels started up and have been looking for somewhere local(ish).

Anyway - sorry about the hijack - enjoying seeing the progress of your '69 Bill :thumb2
 


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