Racing exhaust (no cat no lambda) CCP settings for 1100?

[roddy]

There is a 3 way socket that the pot fits in directly, I don't know what the 2 way socket is for as I have that as well ? but not connected to any thing,

Steptoe maybe of help at this point

as for the precision you probably do need this level of control as from what I can gather the adjustment is quite fine and you wouldn't get the control usiong a normal 1 turn pot

cheers

 

[Tsiklonaut]

Yep, you're right - there are two free sockets there - one seem to be with two pins, other can't see well - must remove the tooldepartment...

It looks i have to start searching the BM one.

 

[roddy]

Yep, you're right - there are two free sockets there - one seem to be with two pins, other can't see well - must remove the tooldepartment...

It looks i have to start searching the BM one.

I would imagine this sort of thing RS components would work click under components, passive, resisitors, potentiomemters,

it's a bit over kill on the wattage side you get the idea

 

[Tsiklonaut]

1100 Motronic 2.2 Cat Code Plug

Just tested playing with different connections on CCP with racing exhaust installed. No CO-pot installed!

1) no CCP - no connections

Engine runs very rich, and there's serious surging and dead spot in about exacly 3K rpms. Elswhere engine sings and breathes OK.

2) 30-87a connections Stock spec (on most models w/o CAT)

No surge anywhere, rpm range smooth. Some kicking back from the engine, especially if going high rpms and instantly letting throttle off, while rpms go down it kicks back once or two. Seems not to run that rich, altough i'm not sure - must measure the CO level somewhere.

3) 30-87a-86 Swizerland spec (w/o CAT).

No surge anywhere, revving very smooth. Very silmilar to 30-87a spec, but seems not to kick back that much as the 30-87a setting.

__________________

All those test were done on revving it freely neutral with normal engine temperature (4-5 bars). Can't do on road serious testdrive yet - thick layer of snow and minus few degrees of cold here

The "kicking back" may got to do with the racing exhaust as well coz it has not that much backpressure as the stock exhaust has i'm guessing(?)

Will let you know about real-life road test if i get a chance. I'll try them all on driving as well to be sure whether i need the CO-pot or not... Depending what colour the sparks will take and the fuel consumption will be...

Here's how i just connected them with simple wire and experimented with different settings - also did Montonic reset with every new setting as a precaution. (30-87a-86 setting shown):

 

[Hambo]

Airbox mod?

"I haven't modified the intake tubes, just removed a section of the airbox on the right hand side to let it breathe properly."

Le singe, I'm interested to know how you modified your airbox. Any chance of a piccie?

Thanks, Hambo

 

[Le singe]

If you remove the lid of the airbox, then the exterior LHS intake tube,(the one that sits below the tank), this leaves a cutaway in the airbox side.
I duplicated this cutaway on the RHS, but lowered it by 1cm to leave a bit of the side for the lid to rest on.
Forget all the aftermarket bolt-ons to replace the exterior trumpet, this is all you need to do.
If you look in the Modifications section, for 'RS footpegs' on 14:01:06, you can see the cutaway clearly in the top picture.

 

[(RIP) Kaister]

margus - youre wasting your time - i'm afraid - with your settings if you don't load the engine.

you need to ride or dyno it.

similar reason for doing a plug chop under load

 

[Hambo]

Air box mod

If you look in the Modifications section, for 'RS footpegs' on 14:01:06, you can see the cutaway clearly in the top picture.

Cheers Le singe, all is now clear.

Hambo

 

[Tsiklonaut]

Got the little fekker from Sherlock with 10£.

Gonna have it fitted soon...

It looks like this - the socket and adjustment screw and Bosch part nr:

 

[Tsiklonaut]

An old thread back up.

Put the decibel killer into exhaust, now finally the bike is rideable again with the racing can, for my ears especially

MASSIVE torque at 1500 to 3000 rpms compared to stock exhaust, BUTT there seems to be a slight "gap" from 3000 to 4000 rpms still, but much better than i tested it w/o the decibel killer tho. It seems to me the db killer does some good back-pressure to the engine and "wakes up" the bottom end again.

I did run it w/o the CO-Pot. It's seems to be a bit rich, but nothing serious.

Now the main question is - how the feck i adjust the CO-pot??? Do it in the "sixth-sense" mode, i.e. take the spark plug colour and fuel consumption as "indicators" after every ride? Or i can only see any changes with the dyno?

Ta, Margus

 

[(RIP) Kaister]

CO pot is only in operation at idle - closed loop mode.

won't make any difference when you open the throttle

thats why the code plug is there - to tell it what pre-configured 'map' to use.