re-installing final drive

[roddy]

right folks, I've a bit of a dumb question but here goes.

had a bit of a wobble at the rear wheel, traced to the paralever bearings, so decided to given them a good grease, so final drive off tonight no great issue there.

but trying to get the bastarding thing back on, is there a wee trick to get the two sets of splines lined up properly ?

it's a 1150gsa with the large marker spline in case that makes a difference.

any help or pointers gratefully received

 

[Canuck]

A rag under the shaft in the housing and a bent screw driver to move around the FD unit... also put a bolt into one of the holes for the wheel bolts... that will let you rotate the shaft a bit... also best (in my experience) to position the shaft then slide it up and on... the opposite way that you took it off!

Good luck... took ages the first time.. about 1 minutes the second and 15 seconds the third.

 

[roddy]

never thought of a rag under the shaft, Doh! makes sense as it's the angle of the two shafts thats beating me.

It's amazing how you can look at a problem and be too near the wood to see the trees and miss the obvious

cheers

 

[Steptoe]

Also attach the final drive to the torque arm so you can just swivel it up into place.

 

[davegs]

never thought of a rag under the shaft, Doh! makes sense as it's the angle of the two shafts thats beating me.

It's amazing how you can look at a problem and be too near the wood to see the trees and miss the obvious

cheers

Don't for get to leave a length of mrag hanging from the s/arm so you can pull it out when the splines are in place, loads of rag going round with the shaft bad news!

 

[monkeyboy]

Wear a head torch too. I also put a dab of white paint on the shaft where the key spline is. There has GOT to be money to be made by producing something to help with this

 

[ducatiparts.110mb]

all the above plus a bottle jack under the FD housing to leave your arms free to manoeuvre it instead of just supporting all the weight

 

[dancata]

And keep the bike in neutral when you put the FD back on.

Dan.

 

[Steptoe]

And keep the bike in neutral when you put the FD back on.

Dan.

Keep it in gear so the shaft doesn't move..............

 

[roddy]

Thanks for all the pointers chaps

whats the opinion on using loctite on the bearing pivots ye or nae , there seems to be a mix, only asking as the fixed pivot was a pig to get out

 

[MattW]

Thanks for all the pointers chaps

whats the opinion on using loctite on the bearing pivots ye or nae , there seems to be a mix, only asking as the fixed pivot was a pig to get out

Many experienced GS'ers don't bother with loctite (put witness marks on the pivots to check they don't move with time).

I bottled it and used standard blue loctite (not the green 2701 concrete that's specified) - made it easier to make sure the pivot didn't move when I tightened the locknut (left the pivot overnight for the loctite to harden before fitting the locknut). However next time I probably won't use anything...

 

[roddy]

Many experienced GS'ers don't bother with loctite (put witness marks on the pivots to check they don't move with time)....

I was leaning this way as the pivot points are torqued up pretty tight (160NM) considering the rear wheel bolts are torqued up to 105NM and they don't get loctite, I'd had thought the pivots would be okay, but the witness marks are a good idea

Ta

 

[MattW]

I was leaning this way as the pivot points are torqued up pretty tight (160NM) considering the rear wheel bolts are torqued up to 105NM and they don't get loctite, I'd had thought the pivots would be okay, but the witness marks are a good idea

Ta

The adjustable pivot pins have a tiny torque (10 Nm from memory) but the adjustable pivot pin locknuts have gorilla torque. The tricky thing if you aren't using thread lock is holding and maintaining the minimal torque on the pins while beasting on the locknut...

 

[davegs]

I was leaning this way as the pivot points are torqued up pretty tight (160NM) considering the rear wheel bolts are torqued up to 105NM and they don't get loctite, I'd had thought the pivots would be okay, but the witness marks are a good idea

Ta

Did you heat up the pivot pin with a hot air gun before removing it?, this is essential as it melts the locktite and saves using excessive force on thin nut.

 

[roddy]

The adjustable pivot pins have a tiny torque (10 Nm from memory) but the adjustable pivot pin locknuts have gorilla torque. The tricky thing if you aren't using thread lock is holding and maintaining the minimal torque on the pins while beasting on the locknut...

Tha last time I adjusted the pivot, I used a allen socket (for the 10NM bit) and ring spanner, to torque upto near the 160NM then using marks on the swingarm and allen bolt, I used a torque wrench to bring it upto the correct value, ensuring the allen bolt hadn't moved.
I think I got a spare socket thats big enough to modifiy so I can use a torque wrench and allen key ?

Did you heat up the pivot pin with a hot air gun before removing it?, this is essential as it melts the locktite and saves using excessive force on thin nut.

I did indeed Dave, in the end I had to use a flame to get enough heat into the fixed pivot so it would loosen off, that why I was asking about the loctite if it was needed as me and naked flames aren't the best combination .

Also I want to be able to regrease these pivot bearing yearly so was wanting to minimise any hassle/potential for damage

 

[Packer]

Strap the stand to the front wheel so that you don't end up with half a bike wedged across the garage, a smashed screen and a big dent in the tank

 

[roddy]

Also attach the final drive to the torque arm so you can just swivel it up into place.

Steptoe's technique (stepnique ) and a rag under the shaft worked a treat, no drama just slipped in like a well used whore

 

[PONDGUY]

The first time you do this it takes forever. Tried "the stuffed rag" method and didn't have much luck. Steptoe sugguested just using a long screwdriver and that worked really well(thanks Steptoe). Attaching the torque arm helped, something under the final drive helped. If the shaft is"keyed" you won't have to make sure the u-joints are "phased" correctly. Good luck

 

[dancata]

The first time you do this it takes forever. Tried "the stuffed rag" method and didn't have much luck. Steptoe sugguested just using a long screwdriver and that worked really well(thanks Steptoe). Attaching the torque arm helped, something under the final drive helped. If the shaft is"keyed" you won't have to make sure the u-joints are "phased" correctly. Good luck

That's exactly what I have done last night after installing some bushings

Dan.

 

[roddy]

bushings ...

what bushings