Stewart H
Registered user
I have seen internal collapsed flexis too, you seem to have exhausted the other options.
Stewart
Stewart
Webgrecian
Guest
Definitely not this. I've given up because I can't work it out. I picked the bike up today having had:
- The clutch replaced (for other reasons)
- Free play checked
- the rear disc checked
- having a replacement caliper
- abs checked
- a new rear master cylinder
The only thing I've not had done to the rear brake is fit stainless hoses.
I rode the thing up the road today and in the space of 5 miles the problem occured 3 times. As before the problem is fixed by me turning off the bike, putting it in neutral, and waggling the caliper back and forth across the disc.
Now I'm wondering whether I've got this wrong and it isn't the brake but a problem with the clutch (despite having a brand new one) or the driveshaft or, a real longshot, the gearbox. But how can it be the clutch when I've just had a new one fitted today?
What is definite is the rear wheel locks and (as I have to force the bike to the side of the road when it locks up) a massive smell of burning when I do so.
Webgrecian
Guest
Just seen this - next on my list of ever increasingly expensive options. Thanks.
Just to confirm, is the caliper getting hot? I know you said you smelt burning, but I'm just checking.
So, is there a chance the ABS unit is faulty and putting the brake on? I know you've had it checked but???
Webgrecian
Guest
Yes, I wondered too. Well, the disc has got hot but It didn't seem especially so when it 'went' again today.
A couple of things spring to mind I had a BM rear brake that bound up the teflon liner in the master cylinder decided to react to something and didn't let the piston go right off, hence leaving the rear brake system under pressure always? the cure is to Replace the MC I think this was one on a K1200RS
Another: Have you too much brake fluid in the reservoir? That would not allow for expansion of the fluids and as it heats up the pressure builds up and that would be a viscious circle as the fluid has no where to go except swell the reservior or take up the slack in the calliper!
Otherwise I concur with Motomartins idea That the "Free" play is adjusted out of the rear pedal!
Someone has lowered the pedal but didn't add free play at the pushrod end remove the rubber boot and look up in is the rod in permanent contact with the piston?
Yes?? More than like your problem undo the locknut and adjust so you have an airgap of at least a mm
1. Slip the rear brake linkage pin out and go for a short ride, does the brake still come on?
2. Take the calliper off its mountings and slip a 4mm piece of something between the pads, go for a ride, stop and check the piece of wood, is it being gripped? Is there still a smell of burning, is the bike still being braked?
Be careful (had to say that didn't I)
2. Take the calliper off its mountings and slip a 4mm piece of something between the pads, go for a ride, stop and check the piece of wood, is it being gripped? Is there still a smell of burning, is the bike still being braked?
Be careful (had to say that didn't I)
Webgrecian
Guest
Problem solved - the problem persisted after a knackered caliper was replaced, so I've now replaced the hoses with Goodridge hoses and the problem is now gone. My wallet is a lot emptier too!
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