Specialist tools required:
Perhaps you can do the job without these tools
Any thoughts?
Bike under warranty, so not my problem anyway- just wondering
Rear drive seal needs replacing
- Thread starter GrinningGSer
- Start date
Specialist tools required:
Perhaps you can do the job without these tools
Any thoughts?
Bike under warranty, so not my problem anyway- just wondering
JohnC
Registered user
It's like a mad dentist horror movie 
(RIP) Bin Ridin
Registered user
With those tools, the dealer would take less than an hour to do it, so unless you like playing, I'd hand over the dough.....
Its probably only a ring shaped drift to keep the new seal square on installation which you could have made up from a piece of scrap metal on a lathe if you know someone who can make one for you, based on the size of the replacement seal. You could even use a big socket to drift it back into place if you have any.
Sounds from the description like you can drill into the old seal and pull it out with a self tapping screw and a home-made slide hammer, then drift in the new one (after inspecting the bearing). It should be a piece of piss for anyone with a bit of technical ability and courage.
Personally for anyone outside warranty, I would get a quote for the seal replacement from BMW first, it might be a lot cheaper than you think. Maybe worth asking Steptoe, he may have a tool or perhaps would be willing to invest in getting one made in the interest of 1200 servicing (there are a lot about nowadays).
Sounds from the description like you can drill into the old seal and pull it out with a self tapping screw and a home-made slide hammer, then drift in the new one (after inspecting the bearing). It should be a piece of piss for anyone with a bit of technical ability and courage.
Personally for anyone outside warranty, I would get a quote for the seal replacement from BMW first, it might be a lot cheaper than you think. Maybe worth asking Steptoe, he may have a tool or perhaps would be willing to invest in getting one made in the interest of 1200 servicing (there are a lot about nowadays).
wouldnt hesitate to try it myself. the drill and bit is straight forward. the seal is likely to be a standard type lip seal (check with the dealer) in which case all you are doing in drilling through the steel backing and then hooking it out. just like you would with the same sort of seal on normal front forks.
assuming the seal is as suggested, then insertion of a new seal can likely be done using the old seal as a drift and a hide mallet.
got to emphasis that I dont know whether the above is right so I would check with the dealer first. I'd also be careful to find out why it had failed.
part of the fun of owning bikes is taking them to bits.
assuming the seal is as suggested, then insertion of a new seal can likely be done using the old seal as a drift and a hide mallet.
got to emphasis that I dont know whether the above is right so I would check with the dealer first. I'd also be careful to find out why it had failed.
part of the fun of owning bikes is taking them to bits.
birdseye said:
I wonder what would cause a seal in this location to fail after 10,000miles. There is no external damage whatsoever. It has also NEVER been underwater.
Are your injuries on the mend Birdseye and how is the floppy foot ?
Activmoto
Guest
You need to check there is no play in the Drive box as this could be the cause of the seal failing. Here is a bulletin i read from on the web, regarding wheel play.
To do this you will need a dial guage and a way to mount it.
Hope this is helpful
==========================================
Subject: Bearing play at the rear wheel drive
Service Parts & Accessories Administration
Date: February 2005
BMW Motorrad USA Service and Technical
Contact: Respective Aftersales Business Consultant
R 1200 GS
1: In the rear drive of the R 1200 GS the ring gear is supported by two types of bearings:
one floating bearing and one fixed bearing without preload. Inherent in this design
is a small amount of bearing play at the rear wheel. With all components manufactured
and assembled to stated tolerances it is possible that play in these bearings can be felt
and measured at the rear wheel. This type of bearing play has no effect on motorcycle
handling or on the durability of the bearings.
2: There is a possibility of play developing between the splined wheel flange (P/N 33 17
7 668 659) and the axle tube of some motorcycles manufactured prior to 08/2004, US
VIN# ZL 76187.
1: In the event of a customer complaint, an inspection and measurement of rear wheel
bearing play is to be performed as described below. With cold components the total
play (back and forth travel) allowable at the wheel rim edge is 1mm(maximum). Refer to
the R 1200 GS Repair Manual CD for measuring procedures as well as temperature definition
of “cold components”. Replace the entire rear-wheel drive assembly if the play
exceeds specifications.
2: If the complaint is “bearing play at the rear wheel” you must first check that the
splined flange is secure before performing the measurement noted in point #1. When
rocking the rear wheel back and forth, you must first make sure there is no movement
between the wheel flange, the rear wheel and the axle tube.
If play is noticeable between these components you must replace the entire rear wheel
drive assembly (complete with flange). Replacing the splined wheel flange only will not
solve the situation, because in all probability the splines on the axle tube will have suffered
some degree of wear as well. If you are in doubt, you are requested to contact your
Important Note: Screw 1 is a drain
plug for repair-related oil changes; it is
not for checking the oil level. When filling
the rear drive assembly with oil,
pour in the defined quantity (0.25 l for
initial fill, or 0.23 l for oil changes)
through the bore for the ABS sensor.
We highly recommend using BMW
Super Synthetic Gear oil. 75W 90, P/N
07 51 0 394 082
To do this you will need a dial guage and a way to mount it.
Hope this is helpful
==========================================
Subject: Bearing play at the rear wheel drive
Service Parts & Accessories Administration
Date: February 2005
BMW Motorrad USA Service and Technical
Contact: Respective Aftersales Business Consultant
R 1200 GS
1: In the rear drive of the R 1200 GS the ring gear is supported by two types of bearings:
one floating bearing and one fixed bearing without preload. Inherent in this design
is a small amount of bearing play at the rear wheel. With all components manufactured
and assembled to stated tolerances it is possible that play in these bearings can be felt
and measured at the rear wheel. This type of bearing play has no effect on motorcycle
handling or on the durability of the bearings.
2: There is a possibility of play developing between the splined wheel flange (P/N 33 17
7 668 659) and the axle tube of some motorcycles manufactured prior to 08/2004, US
VIN# ZL 76187.
1: In the event of a customer complaint, an inspection and measurement of rear wheel
bearing play is to be performed as described below. With cold components the total
play (back and forth travel) allowable at the wheel rim edge is 1mm(maximum). Refer to
the R 1200 GS Repair Manual CD for measuring procedures as well as temperature definition
of “cold components”. Replace the entire rear-wheel drive assembly if the play
exceeds specifications.
2: If the complaint is “bearing play at the rear wheel” you must first check that the
splined flange is secure before performing the measurement noted in point #1. When
rocking the rear wheel back and forth, you must first make sure there is no movement
between the wheel flange, the rear wheel and the axle tube.
If play is noticeable between these components you must replace the entire rear wheel
drive assembly (complete with flange). Replacing the splined wheel flange only will not
solve the situation, because in all probability the splines on the axle tube will have suffered
some degree of wear as well. If you are in doubt, you are requested to contact your
Important Note: Screw 1 is a drain
plug for repair-related oil changes; it is
not for checking the oil level. When filling
the rear drive assembly with oil,
pour in the defined quantity (0.25 l for
initial fill, or 0.23 l for oil changes)
through the bore for the ABS sensor.
We highly recommend using BMW
Super Synthetic Gear oil. 75W 90, P/N
07 51 0 394 082
Activmoto
Guest
Also found this on the BMWOCA.
GrinningGSer said:I wonder what would cause a seal in this location to fail after 10,000miles. There is no external damage whatsoever. It has also NEVER been underwater.
Are your injuries on the mend Birdseye and how is the floppy foot ?
Still distinctly more limp than the wrist
but some slight movement now so the nerves cant have been severed. Wheelchair for another month but hoping to get on crutches after that. Still reckon I got away lightly compared to other poor bu**ers, though a diet of daytime TV, the internet and detective stories is beginning to pall. Thanks for asking
Emoto
Registered user
Activmoto said:
BMWOCA??? Got any more Us service bulletins? If so, I would love to read them. you can email them to me at emoto1 at gmail dot com (spelled out to avoid spambots). Particularly of interest are any about the battery draining problom. Thanks!
I just noticed an oil leak beneath the 'hinge' of my rear drive, about a month after changing the rear drive oil.
I suspect the rear drive input shaft seal is weeping, I am ging to take a closer look but I guess its sods law. Maybe the oil I put in is a bit thinner than the old black goo I took out which is leading to the leakage. Looks like a few more evenings with the spanners then.
I suspect the rear drive input shaft seal is weeping, I am ging to take a closer look but I guess its sods law. Maybe the oil I put in is a bit thinner than the old black goo I took out which is leading to the leakage. Looks like a few more evenings with the spanners then.
Rear drive unit input shaft has a smidgen of sideplay and the oil lip seal is allowing oil to weep past. I suspect the input shaft bearing has started to wear and will only get worse from here onwards, even though the wheel spindle/hub bearings are fine. Its rather annoying at a mere 23k miles, and to buy a complete replacement rear drive bevel unit is out of the question as they are VERY expensive. The parts to repair ie new bearing and seal etc are available but the procedure is not published anywhere and would need special tools to achieve. I could make up the special tooling myself but it would be a long job. I spoke to the dealers as bike is out of warranty and they agree that this major drivetrain component should last longer and are making a few calls on my behalf. Fingers crossed then.
max7
Guest
Hi,
I've just come back from having a blast in France and Germany (Vosge mountains and The Black Forest) and discovered just what these machines were REALLY designed to do
Got home well chuffed - until I noticed that, in addition to the filthy mess covering my bike, oil had been flung out of it's rear axle - exactly as shown in GrinningGSer's picture above.
Can't say how disappointed I am. I'm her second owner, I've had her for nearly 2 years, but have only done 11k miles and have really mollycoddled her. 11k miles!!!!!!
Why oh why can't BMW make a reliable, robust machine? These things cost 9 grand for G-ds sake
. Naturally, she's out of warranty too, though if BMW had an ounce of decency they'd have done a recall long ago (this thing's all over the web!).
Now I don't even know if I should be riding her. Grrrrrrrr.
I've just come back from having a blast in France and Germany (Vosge mountains and The Black Forest) and discovered just what these machines were REALLY designed to do
Got home well chuffed - until I noticed that, in addition to the filthy mess covering my bike, oil had been flung out of it's rear axle - exactly as shown in GrinningGSer's picture above.
Can't say how disappointed I am. I'm her second owner, I've had her for nearly 2 years, but have only done 11k miles and have really mollycoddled her. 11k miles!!!!!!
Why oh why can't BMW make a reliable, robust machine? These things cost 9 grand for G-ds sake
. Naturally, she's out of warranty too, though if BMW had an ounce of decency they'd have done a recall long ago (this thing's all over the web!).Now I don't even know if I should be riding her. Grrrrrrrr.
Big Lee
Registered user
So the moral of the story is ride it hard! 
But seriously, keep us informed of what the dealers say & what price it costs to do the job.
But seriously, keep us informed of what the dealers say & what price it costs to do the job.
JohnC
Registered user
How prophetic that I posted in this thread
Mines just went at 10 months and about 11K.
We'll soon see as It wont take me long to rack up another 11K.
Mines just went at 10 months and about 11K.
We'll soon see as It wont take me long to rack up another 11K.
max7
Guest
Sorry JohnC, didn't mean to jinx ya mate 
For any interested peeps, the latest installment in the tale of my 1200GS's knackered rear end is as follows....
After speaking to a very, very good independant BMW specialist today (dunno if he'd want me to name him - so I shan't!) he advised that I speak to Coopers of Tunbridge Wells today, to see if they could get fixed it through the "goodwill" warranty route.
In fairness, Coopers tried, they failed. BMW didn't want to know, and turned down the warranty request flat (no suprises there then).
I genuinely believe that BMW SHOULD want to know - this type of failure is totally unacceptable on a bike of this age and mileage. AND, like I said in my last post, there's a known and dangerous weakness there so why the hell aren't the fools doing a recall??? We should all be worried, me thinks.
Anyway, in the meantime it's customer services complaint time for me
Watch this space; but don't hold your breath!
For any interested peeps, the latest installment in the tale of my 1200GS's knackered rear end is as follows....
After speaking to a very, very good independant BMW specialist today (dunno if he'd want me to name him - so I shan't!) he advised that I speak to Coopers of Tunbridge Wells today, to see if they could get fixed it through the "goodwill" warranty route.
In fairness, Coopers tried, they failed. BMW didn't want to know, and turned down the warranty request flat (no suprises there then).
I genuinely believe that BMW SHOULD want to know - this type of failure is totally unacceptable on a bike of this age and mileage. AND, like I said in my last post, there's a known and dangerous weakness there so why the hell aren't the fools doing a recall??? We should all be worried, me thinks.
Anyway, in the meantime it's customer services complaint time for me
Watch this space; but don't hold your breath!
JohnC
Registered user
lol
gl with the customer service btw, and yes you're right.
max7
Guest
cheers m8 - I'm gonna need it
JohnC
Registered user
You could try printing out all the threads where this seal has failed. Especially as 11 - 12 K seems to be cropping up a fair bit.
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