Mmmm, sounds a bit complicated to me
. I think I'll take it to Micheldever and watch what they do and I might learn something.
Thanks for all the tips, I'll tighten the one I managed to loosen and fill her up with some squirty stuff.
Hi Woodie,
I think the best way to learn something is to do it yourself, and this is one of the easiest jobs to do on your bike. Even as a first timer, it shouldn't take more than fifteen minutes, but if it takes half an hour, it doesn't matter; you're learning...
I've never had to remove the silencer from mine, but I've got a Remus on an 1100, so that might make a difference. If you're going to remove it, do this first. If you've got the floppy plastic mudguard thing fitted it might make things easier if you remove that as well, though it isn't necessary. Before you start,make sure you've got the sockets/Allen keys you'll need to hand. I use the Allen type socket attachments. Oh, and
put that torque wrench well out of arms/harms reach until you're putting things back on! Right:
- As mentioned above, get someone to operate the brake pedal, then just loosen the wheel bolts. Not much, you just need to break the 'grip'. (If you've no-one to operate the brake, put the bike in to first gear, remembering to select neutral again once the bolts are loosened).
- Now remove the brake calliper mounting bolts (Allen head).
If you have ABS, you'll probably find that the wire to the sensor is wire-tied to the brake line. I don't cut these, I just remove the sensor as well. Take out the small Allen headed bolt, then gently work the sensor out. Leave the shims in place on the sensor so you don't lose them.
- Now remove the calliper. You'll probably have to work it gently back-and-forth against the disc to push the pads back enough to free them from the disc. I usually find it comes off after doing this, and wiggling it up and rearwards.
- Hang the caliper and sensor out of the way so not to strain the brake hose. Keep well away from the brake pedal; you don't want to push the pads out now!
- Now turn the wheel so that you have the bolts at 12/3/6 and 9 o'clock. This will help you line the holes up when you come to put your wheel back on.
- Remove the bolts, and gently lift the wheel, and pull it towards you. (It sits on a small lip on the final drive; lifting it slightly makes sure it doesn't slip off this lip, so avoiding any damage to it)
- If you've removed the silencer and plastic mudguard thing, your wheel should now just roll out to the rear. If you haven't removed them, lay the wheel about 45 degrees, top away from you, and you should be able to work it out.
Now take your wheel to get the puncture fixed/new tyre.
When putting the wheel back on:
- Align the bolt holes to the clock face; this should line them up with the bolt holes in the final drive. I usually allow the wheel to just gently touch the final drive, then lift slightly to clear the flange, and it should 'click' in to place.
- Put the top bolt in first, and tighten it up until the cone is just touching the wheel; this will prevent the wheel slipping back off the flange as you put the bottom bolt in, again just enough to touch the wheel. Now put the other two bolts in. Lightly nip up the bolts with a socket, I do about a quarter turn at a time on each, in 12-6-3-9 o'clock order.
- Re-fit the brake calliper. Again, a bit of a wiggle down and forwards usually works for me. Don't forget the washers on the bolts; if you have the ABS sensor, the mounting bracket for this forms the washer on the forward calliper bolt, so gently replace the ABS sensor before inserting this bolt, making sure not to lose/damage the shims. Nip the bolts up, then tighten them to the required torque setting. (Find these in the Haynes manual)
- Replace the mudguard thingy, and silencer if you removed these.
- Tighten the wheel bolts to the required setting, again tightening a quarter turn each 12-6-3-9 o'clock, until the wrench clicks on each in turn. Doing them in this 'opposites' fashion helps to make sure the wheel is seated properly.
- The rest of the bolts (Mudguard thingy, silencer) I usually nip up with my ratchet handle, but use the torque wrench here if you're happier that way.
- Give the wheel a spin by hand, just to make sure it turns freely.
- Gently pump the brake pedal by hand. This pushes the pads back out to their correct distance from the disc. If you don't do this, you'll need to be carrying clean underwear the first time you apply the brake when riding!
That's it, job done. That lot might look a bit complicated, but it really isn't; As I said, about fifteen minutes each way. And once you've done it, it's a doddle the next time, which is when you might need it to be a doddle.
Cheers,
Dave.
Anyone else feel free to add comments, or point out owt I've missed.
