Rear Shock bottom mount

[fritz]

Having just remounted my rebuilt Wilbers shock on the PD Classic I noted just how bloody tight a fit the bottom mount is - common to all?

I think on my 1989 R100GS I spent some quality time with emery paper reworking the mount to ease the fit.... there is no way you'd get the shock off at side of some godforsaken road in crisis. The shock will have to come off at some point so I'll need to 'modify' the mount. I'll have to make sort of a puller just to get the ****er off again I suspect

I guess a tight fit helps keep things tight, but as there is a rotational bearing at that end why so tight?

Anyone else found the same? Discuss

 

[Redboots]

Anyone else found the same? Discuss

I never had a problem with mine... do you mount the bottom before the top bolt?

John

 

[cobbster]

The rear fixing that goes into the drive shaft housing is a very tight fit and is on a thread, I know I broke one 9 o'clock in the evening before going on a bike tour for 10 days the next morning @0600hrs fitting new wilber's shock on my PD.

I had removed it, as like you the bush on the original shock had welded its self on. I have a lathe and turned off the bush. I used a 10mm domed nut to drive the rear fixing back in and snapped the stud.

I was very lucky that my old pal lives near by and by midnight I had his off and fitted in mine. (very nice man)

My pal got 2 new rear fixings for me while I was away, they are very expensive.

If you end up removing this then use a little heat and on returning put in freezer and again a little heat. It's the fit of this that takes the load and has to be a interference fit.

I hope this helps?

 

[fritz]

The rear fixing that goes into the drive shaft housing is a very tight fit and is on a thread, I know I broke one 9 o'clock in the evening before going on a bike tour for 10 days the next morning @0600hrs fitting new wilber's shock on my PD.

I had removed it, as like you the bush on the original shock had welded its self on. I have a lathe and turned off the bush. I used a 10mm domed nut to drive the rear fixing back in and snapped the stud.

I was very lucky that my old pal lives near by and by midnight I had his off and fitted in mine. (very nice man)

My pal got 2 new rear fixings for me while I was away, they are very expensive.

If you end up removing this then use a little heat and on returning put in freezer and again a little heat. It's the fit of this that takes the load and has to be a interference fit.

I hope this helps?

Scarey

I was talking about the stud in the rear bevel, the fit between it and the shock lower eyelet. The stud is too tight.

I hope it stays in place when I take the Wilbers off then - I didn't think it could be removed better be careful

I'll ease it off the stud (I hope) with heat and some type of puller, definately going to emery the mount to make it easier on / off.

The 89 bike has done 100,000 miles that way and no probs so sure no need for such a significant tight fit between stud and eyelet. No way this would come off easily, and occassionally it does have to come off - such as changing the serviceable parts...paralever shaft for instance

Ta

 

[Kenny]

Stud won't come out without a lot of heat/assistance so don't worry there. Small amount of heat and penetrating oil should do it. My Hagon was also to tight a fit ( all sorted now ).

 

[fritz]

That ****ing Wilbers won't budge....twat

Making a puller in hope I can get the soddin thing off again grrrrrr

 

[fritz]

HEEELLLLPPPPP

HHEEELLLLPPPPP

OK then, tried most things and CANNOT shift the Wilbers off the bottom mount...with hindsight I SHOULD have emeried the stud, oh well

I guess the rebuild included a new bearing as obviously I got it off before the rebuild (was way way too tight even then).

So, the bottom will not budge, for info, it is here:-

 

[fritz]

I have tried levering, including my neighbours prising bars (a few steps up from crow-bars) nowt.

I tried some heat....but it would never work as the face that is 'stuck' to the stud face is within the bottom of the shocker and anyway also surrounded with a rubbery gaskety type thingy.

I have tried a home made puller - a cycle bottom bracket spanner and a steel strap (for clutch removal in case you may recognise it) but it flexes too much and hasn't bunged it.

You can see there isn't much room or space, and I don't have a lathe or anything, just normal home garage facilities and tools.

The pointy bit of puller isn't near the rubber boot by the way, and the mounting nut is on in reverse to brace off for the puller.

Key is :-

a) to not knacker anything (pivots, swing arm etc) while riving at mount

b) not knacker the stud threads

c) not remove the stud itself, and

d) not knacker the £250 rebuilt Wilbers.


And before anyone asks, NO, I can't just leave the shock on as it must be able to be removed or you can't access shaft or gearbox...without a lot of very uneccessary work

Puller shown below.

 

[fritz]

Anyone assist with how I can get round this?

The Wilbers has only been on for one 250 mile ride out so not had a great amount of time to weld in place.

Because the bottom bearing is the type that allows lots of rotation and is inset from the face of the bottom of the shock itself it is extremely hard to gain leverage onto, or off.

Time to do a different job and see what you good folk can come up with


Pleeaasssseeee

 

[Kenny]

Fritz,

I use this spray when heat is a tad to complicated etc.....Proff put me onto it

The spray freezes and is also a penetrating oil....just keep spraying the centre stud and wait 2 minutes...give it a good dose !

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LOCTITE-F...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item415cf94d36

Kenny

 

[Dazzle]

Fritz,

I use this spray when heat is a tad to complicated etc.....Proff put me onto it

The spray freezes and is also a penetrating oil....just keep spraying the centre stud and wait 2 minutes...give it a good dose !

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LOCTITE-F...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item415cf94d36

Kenny

Had to laugh, being sold by a land rover specialist must be good at removing seized/rusty nuts then

 

[Kenny]

Had to laugh, being sold by a land rover specialist must be good at removing seized/rusty nuts then

Guess what my other vehicle is ???


Spray also useful if ones Missus gets amorous..quick spray and it subdues her

 

[Archie Adv]

More heat is the key... Yer hair dryer doesn't produce enough so get a blow torch on it. Ok might screw the Wilbers bearing rubber seal but thats cheaper to replace than the stud IMO. Oh and I am the nice man Cobbster referred to. It need a lot of heat.

 

[fritz]

Cheers Kenny, ordered some spray as not tried that before so worth a go. Think I'd need heat on bearing and cooler on pivot - but not sure theat'd work.

Archie take your point, but not sure if the bearing material might expand with heat - then burst into flames

I can't beleive it looks like I'll be sending the fringing shock back to Wilbers for a new bearing after all of 200 miles

Seems the last persone to touch the exhaust nuts was an orangatan too so I'll experiment on those too...before geting the ****ing hanksaw out....jesus

Let you know how I get on, or the next stage of the farce as it'll likely be known

 

[Kenny]

fritz, I use a 3 ft length of scaffolding over the handle of the exhaust flange nut spanner. Then heat (even boiling water ) and PlusGas penetrating oil...never let me down yet

 

[fritz]

fritz, I use a 3 ft length of scaffolding over the handle of the exhaust flange nut spanner. Then heat (even boiling water ) and PlusGas penetrating oil...never let me down yet

Blimey - have you seen how much a re-thread is

or that Motorworks conversion thingy?

ta

 

[Kenny]

Once the flange moves a tad, tighten it up a tadn and work the scaffolding backwards and forwards a little more each time...breaks up the deposits on the threads

 

[(RIP) maverick]

Fritz when you had the puller on did you try and tighten and then give the bolt a good tap with a mallet? This usually works if the gearbox flange is stuck. Just get it under pressure with the puller and tap it. Tighten it a bit more and repeat

 

[fritz]

Both good suggestions.

I'll try the on bottom mount after the 'cold spray'...hopefully it won't shatter

The exhaust nut spanner is such a 'sloppy' fit when it comes to tight nuts (oh er) that I'm nut sure I could get an extension on (even more oh er!). Fine on maintained ones, just not good for over tightened nuts, need one person to hold head on while other levers really.

Mine's a Motorworks one - any better available

For comparison my 78 R80/7 that has been off the road for about 10 years, I tried turning the exhaust nut. Unscrewed easily, bloody orangutans have a lot to answer for.

Be sure to loosen your nuts (oh oh er er) grease (oh etc etc) and gently re-tighten on at least an annual basis...pleeaassseeee

let you know how I get on if no risk of lightning strikes today

 

[fritz]

That fuckin bottom mount will not budge.

Freeze spray, or gas bottle, tapping no fuckin sign of movement whatsoever

Any other suggestions?

I may try making a stronger puller as really I need to have the force coming off the mounting pin and not through the swing-arm etc. I have been given a fat peice of metal - but really I don't have the tools to do a proper job.

Bought some pullers from Toolstation as at £17 odd it's nowt compared to the days I've been going at this, but they are too large to get behind the bottom mount of shock.

Help