Rear Wheel bearing R1150GS

John B

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Just got the 1150GS back from MOT, all good aside from an advisory for "rear wheel bearing slight play" How difficult to do are these? (bearing in mind I'm a Numpty when it comes to mechanical issues) any thoughts welcome:D Cheers:beerjug:John B
 
Have a look at this John.

This is for a K series but the procedure it pretty much the same. Ignore the bit about removing the rear disc as this will be attached to you wheel on the GS.
 
Many Thanks for that link Paul, the much missed MikeP. That looks fairly clear in that I think this is way above my ability:nenau which I suspected,so a trip to local specialist is called for:D Cheers:beerjug:John B
 
It’s not a hard job on the 1150GS, certainly within the skills of most. I did it a few years ago now following guidance on here, by Steptoe I think.
 
Many Thanks for that link Paul, the much missed MikeP. That looks fairly clear in that I think this is way above my ability:nenau which I suspected,so a trip to local specialist is called for:D Cheers:beerjug:John B

When I bought my 1150 3 yrs ago the rear bearing was absolutely goosed, you could spin the wheel & not hear yourself speak! Erik at Ekquire m/c did mine in Bury St Ed’s, old school guy in an old school workshop. If you’ve got a fat wallet BMW in Glemsford will release most of it for you:D
Hope this helps.
 
Just got the 1150GS back from MOT, all good aside from an advisory for "rear wheel bearing slight play" How difficult to do are these? (bearing in mind I'm a Numpty when it comes to mechanical issues) any thoughts welcome:D Cheers:beerjug:John B

It surely must have been safe enough or they would have failed it!

Drain the FD oil and check for sparkles If there are none (and we are talking a wee "shimmy" of movement when cold ?) it should be fine

The bearings are C3 clearance and not all that left the factory were shimmed perfectly and always had the slightest movement

Not to start an oil war, but Any I have been servicing the last 5 or so years I always put back 85W 140 GL5 Gear oil Its just heavier viscosity to help protect the bearings a bit better
 
When I bought my 1150 3 yrs ago the rear bearing was absolutely goosed, you could spin the wheel & not hear yourself speak! Erik at Ekquire m/c did mine in Bury St Ed’s, old school guy in an old school workshop. If you’ve got a fat wallet BMW in Glemsford will release most of it for you:D
Hope this helps.

Ta for heads up, I 'll have a look at Ekquire, I may be a little disengenious here but have always thought that Reiten Moto at Glemsford are more interested in moving metal than having a reasonable cost service solution:D Cheers:beerjug:John B
 
Wait, stop!!! ……….. the “wheel bearing play” the mot tester has picked up is most likely play in the paralever bearings. This is adjustable, you don’t even need to remove the rear wheel to do the adjustment.. I see countless bikes where the mot tester has stated play in rear wheel bearing and 99% of the time the paralever bearings. 5 minute job to sort out. Most mot testers aren’t very familiar with BMW’s and their idiosyncrasies.
 
Wait, stop!!! ……….. the “wheel bearing play” the mot tester has picked up is most likely play in the paralever bearings. This is adjustable, you don’t even need to remove the rear wheel to do the adjustment.. I see countless bikes where the mot tester has stated play in rear wheel bearing and 99% of the time the paralever bearings. 5 minute job to sort out. Most mot testers aren’t very familiar with BMW’s and their idiosyncrasies.

Good Call I forget you folks have access to many different MOT centres whereas we have government ones here (With Model specific failure point notes) :thumb

Difference being IF the disc moves relative to the Hub it's the big bearing

If the whole FD moves relative to the swingarm? It's the paralever bearings
 
When I bought my 1150 3 yrs ago the rear bearing was absolutely goosed, you could spin the wheel & not hear yourself speak! Erik at Ekquire m/c did mine in Bury St Ed’s, old school guy in an old school workshop.

Ta For the Heads up:thumb2popped over there today, as you say a proper old school guy, reassured me that play is only slight so good to go for a few miles yet, keep an eye and report back to Erik when needed. Cheers:beerjug:John B
 
Ta For the Heads up:thumb2popped over there today, as you say a proper old school guy, reassured me that play is only slight so good to go for a few miles yet, keep an eye and report back to Erik when needed. Cheers:beerjug:John B

You did well to find the place to start with�� don’t let it get too bad like mine was, how that got me home lord knows.��
 
Left out the second "good":blast, he reckoned a few thousand:rolleyes:
Keep your eye on it, if you start to see a misting of oil on the rear wheel, expect an imminent failure.

If you are heading of on a big trip get it done before you go.
 
Hi, I know this is an old thread but my gsa 1150 is making a horrible whirring sound from the rear and I took it back to James Sherlock but he said it was just a noisy drive shaft but it sounds more like a wheel bearing to me? I really don't know a lot about bikes I just ride them but would be nice if I could quieten down the noise from the back end.
 
Hi, I know this is an old thread but my gsa 1150 is making a horrible whirring sound from the rear and I took it back to James Sherlock but he said it was just a noisy drive shaft but it sounds more like a wheel bearing to me? I really don't know a lot about bikes I just ride them but would be nice if I could quieten down the noise from the back end.
Put the bike on its centre stand, start up and put it in gear, not a low gear. Let the clutch out and let the rear wheel spin. You should now be able to locate the source of the noise. If it is the bevel box bearing then I would be relieved , as it is probably the easiest to sort out.
 
Put the bike on its centre stand, start up and put it in gear, not a low gear. Let the clutch out and let the rear wheel spin. You should now be able to locate the source of the noise. If it is the bevel box bearing then I would be relieved , as it is probably the easiest to sort out.

Do not do this .. as well as not being good for the driveshaft U/J’s, the driveshaft will clank and make an horrendous noise .. that’s perfectly normal if doing what you suggest and won’t help isolate any noise or problem.

Turn the back wheel by hand with the engine off will tell you where the problem is
 
Do not do this .. as well as not being good for the driveshaft U/J’s, the driveshaft will clank and make an horrendous noise .. that’s perfectly normal if doing what you suggest and won’t help isolate any noise or problem.

Turn the back wheel by hand with the engine off will tell you where the problem is
It’s what the BMW dealer in Italy did when my bearing went in the Dolomites. In gear, revved the engine, pointed straight to the bevel .
 
OK thanks guys, I'll take it to a dealer and let them have a listen to it. 👍
 


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