Rear Wheel Removal - 1200 gsa

  • Thread starter Thread starter charlie bimmerman
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charlie bimmerman

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Can any of you handy types advise me on how to best remove the rear wheel on my 12GSA? I don't really want to but it's the only way I can fit the bloody hugger I've bought from NN (who it has to be said were less than helpful when I asked for advice) :spitfire

I can see that I'm going to need a Torque wrench to undo the retaining bolts with a Torx socket. I'm just a bit concerned I'm going to end up buggering the whole thing up - brakes and stuff.

So - in the scheme of things, bad idea if not supervised by a grown up or simple task for a chimp with a torque wrench?

Any advice? Torque settings etc? :nenau
 
On center stand - Prop up rear of bike so it doesn't move and rear wheel is off ground - Remove brake caliper bolts and remove caliper - tie out of way with string so no stress on brake line - put in gear - undo wheel studs - remove all but one - then whilst supporting wheel take out last stud :thumb

P.S you need the torque wrench to do the bolts up again not to remove. If in doubt get some help from someone who knows what they are doing!

P.P.S If you're a bit ham fisted, recommend you get some thick string and tie the centre stand tightly in place so there is no risk of pushing the bike off the stand whilst you're grappling with your rear end missus :rolleyes:

P.P.S Shep, are you sure the caliper doesn't need to be removed!
 
When replacing do the nuts up progresively in a diagonal sequence and torque to 60 Nm. (Dry ie no grease). Defo do not use thread lock (do not ask me how I know this :o )

Andres
 
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The brakes stay in place on the bike when the wheel is removed, and you will need a torque wrench to tighten it up again properly :thumb

Shep
 
Sorry, i havn't taken the rear wheel out of a 1200 for a couple of years now, but i thought the brakes stayed in place when I did, sorry. :o The above probably know better :nenau

Shep
 
Shep said:
The brakes stay in place on the bike when the wheel is removed, and you will need a torque wrench to tighten it up again properly :thumb

Shep

I can second this, there are 5 or 6 Torx bolts to remove, the wheel comes out easily when on the center stand (don't try it on the side stand you might not like the results)

When you refit, as said about, do the bolts in a cross hatch (ie 1, 3, 5, 2 then 4) you'll need to torque them up to 60Nm I believe

All pretty simple, but if you arent happy find a responsible adult to go through it with you

oh and dont forget to check the torque after a hundred miles or so
 
Shep said:
Sorry, i havn't taken the rear wheel out of a 1200 for a couple of years now, but i thought the brakes stayed in place when I did, sorry. :o The above probably know better :nenau

Shep

Nope, I've got a 12GSA wheel attaches to a hub that includes the drive and rear disk.

Of course it could have all changed since June
 
wheel attaches to a hub that includes the drive and rear disk.
Brilliant! You learn zummat new every day :bow :thumb
1200 is completely different to 1150 then :o
 
Gentlemen - you are all fine examples of Tossers and I thank you for your help and advice. With my own garage and some time I'd get stuck in. with neither of those things....

I'll get a dealer to do it. :thumb

better be safe than sorry - wheels are kinda important however numpty I may sound!!
 
charlie bimmerman said:
Gentlemen - you are all fine examples of Tossers and I thank you for your help and advice. With my own garage and some time I'd get stuck in. with neither of those things....

I'll get a dealer to do it. :thumb

better be safe than sorry - wheels are kinda important however numpty I may sound!!

Have a go - really, it couldn't be easier! Five (six - can't remember?) bolts to undo and do up again. That's all, nada mass :D

The beauty of a single sided swing arm :thumb

Andres
 
Its dead easy - I did it at the side of the road outside the tyre dealers. Get a good torx socket use a half decent socket ratchet (or better still a simple 90 degree angled socket arm. Put a bit of steel or aluminium tube over the handle to assist with leverage. Put the bike in gear and heave. Wheel falls off leaving hub and brake gubbins in place. Tighten up using a torque wrench ideally but if you are stuck without one you can simply do them up FO tight.
 


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