Well, a rear end rumble seems to have shown that I needed a third final drive ( now rebuilt by mikeyboy of this parish) and I discovered a shot UJ in the driveshaft. Looks like an expensive week for me then?
I've posted before about how I thought the driveshaft should be rebuildable, so, I gave it a go....
It worked well and I reckon someone handy with a hammer and a vice can do it in little over 2 hours...
www.baileymorris.co.uk list a 19mm x 48mm centre lube UJ, (REF BM10 - ELBE 0.106 centre lube) order a pair of those, about £65 delivered.
Remove the rear wheel, remove rear caliper and ABS sensor, undo the top paralever and swing down the final drive.... Oil will run out of the ABS hole so be ready, may as well change the oil whilst you're at it.
Cut the cable tie on the front face of the gaiter at rear of gearbox and pull it back to expose the output shaft. Insert a tyre lever into the front yoke and push the driveshaft off the gearbox output shaft. The driveshaft will pull out of the swinging arm to the rear.
Examine the UJs for notchy bearings or any movement in the bearings. If in doubt, replace.
Get the tippex out and mark the orientation of the yokes so when pulled ( do one end at a time) you can reassemble them in the same way and not 180 degrees out of phase.
Knocking out the old UJs is slightly complicated as they're staked in and not held in with circlips they are also quite small, not quite as beefy as those on my old landie.
You'll need a 13mm socket and a reasonable vice next, the socket is the right size to sit inside the yoke against the bearing cup. Use the vice and the socket as a punch to squeeze the UJ to one side and break past the staking.... It goes with a 'crack', doesn't matter which ones you do first. Next hammer through the UJ to push the cup out.... Sit the yoke on a bigger socket to allow the cup to protrude. It will not go all the way through due to the yoke size, you'll need to grip the exposed 5mm or so of the cup in the vice again and use a bit of persuasion to twist it out. Once out, punch the opposite cup out a far as possible then repeat the vice trick. Disassemble one end of the driveshaft.
A small needle file can be used to clean off the staking marks. Don't go crazy, just get the rough edge off where the staking marks were.
When inserting the new UJs they have to go in with the grease nipples facing away from the ends of the driveshaft. Thy will not fit the other way. Also you will have to file off a tiny bit of metal on the yoke ( gearbox end) as the casting has a lip that just catches the grease nipple. You could simply replace the nipple with a dome head screw as that would be shorter but, if a jobs worth doing etc.....
Inserting UJs is pretty straightforward, the vice helps, as does the 13mm socket to recess the cups. The new cups sit just inside the yoke surface and centering is obvious. I did it by eye then measured with a digital caliper, I must have good eyes.... Don't forget the orientation of the yokes with the tippex marks.
I used a sharp centre punch to put three punch marks on the edge of the yokes to stop the cups moving, I measured the centering again just in case anything moved, it hadn't.
Repeat on the other end of the driveshaft, job done.... Oh, pump each joint with fresh grease then, whatever escapes from the UJs wipe on the end splines, it can't hurt.
Re insert the driveshaft, now you can spend an hour or so cursing trying to get the yoke onto the gearbox output shaft or you can realise that if you insert a finger or two into the gaiter you can lift the yoke and align it, a bang with the left palm on the final drive end of the shaft will pop it on and pinch your finger ( ouch! ).
Rebuild everything and go for a ride with your freshly greased shaft and realise that you've saved a fortune over the cost of a new shaft. You can easily grease the shaft UJs at each service, you can do the rear without pulling the shaft but the front is not possible without pulling the driveshaft, once you've one it once it's vey easy though.
Sorry there's no pictures, I'm a techno numpty that likes to hammer and bash things! If you aren't sure about anything I've posted feel free to ask but its all quite straightforward, honest!
Roger.
I've posted before about how I thought the driveshaft should be rebuildable, so, I gave it a go....
It worked well and I reckon someone handy with a hammer and a vice can do it in little over 2 hours...
www.baileymorris.co.uk list a 19mm x 48mm centre lube UJ, (REF BM10 - ELBE 0.106 centre lube) order a pair of those, about £65 delivered.
Remove the rear wheel, remove rear caliper and ABS sensor, undo the top paralever and swing down the final drive.... Oil will run out of the ABS hole so be ready, may as well change the oil whilst you're at it.
Cut the cable tie on the front face of the gaiter at rear of gearbox and pull it back to expose the output shaft. Insert a tyre lever into the front yoke and push the driveshaft off the gearbox output shaft. The driveshaft will pull out of the swinging arm to the rear.
Examine the UJs for notchy bearings or any movement in the bearings. If in doubt, replace.
Get the tippex out and mark the orientation of the yokes so when pulled ( do one end at a time) you can reassemble them in the same way and not 180 degrees out of phase.
Knocking out the old UJs is slightly complicated as they're staked in and not held in with circlips they are also quite small, not quite as beefy as those on my old landie.
You'll need a 13mm socket and a reasonable vice next, the socket is the right size to sit inside the yoke against the bearing cup. Use the vice and the socket as a punch to squeeze the UJ to one side and break past the staking.... It goes with a 'crack', doesn't matter which ones you do first. Next hammer through the UJ to push the cup out.... Sit the yoke on a bigger socket to allow the cup to protrude. It will not go all the way through due to the yoke size, you'll need to grip the exposed 5mm or so of the cup in the vice again and use a bit of persuasion to twist it out. Once out, punch the opposite cup out a far as possible then repeat the vice trick. Disassemble one end of the driveshaft.
A small needle file can be used to clean off the staking marks. Don't go crazy, just get the rough edge off where the staking marks were.
When inserting the new UJs they have to go in with the grease nipples facing away from the ends of the driveshaft. Thy will not fit the other way. Also you will have to file off a tiny bit of metal on the yoke ( gearbox end) as the casting has a lip that just catches the grease nipple. You could simply replace the nipple with a dome head screw as that would be shorter but, if a jobs worth doing etc.....
Inserting UJs is pretty straightforward, the vice helps, as does the 13mm socket to recess the cups. The new cups sit just inside the yoke surface and centering is obvious. I did it by eye then measured with a digital caliper, I must have good eyes.... Don't forget the orientation of the yokes with the tippex marks.
I used a sharp centre punch to put three punch marks on the edge of the yokes to stop the cups moving, I measured the centering again just in case anything moved, it hadn't.
Repeat on the other end of the driveshaft, job done.... Oh, pump each joint with fresh grease then, whatever escapes from the UJs wipe on the end splines, it can't hurt.
Re insert the driveshaft, now you can spend an hour or so cursing trying to get the yoke onto the gearbox output shaft or you can realise that if you insert a finger or two into the gaiter you can lift the yoke and align it, a bang with the left palm on the final drive end of the shaft will pop it on and pinch your finger ( ouch! ).
Rebuild everything and go for a ride with your freshly greased shaft and realise that you've saved a fortune over the cost of a new shaft. You can easily grease the shaft UJs at each service, you can do the rear without pulling the shaft but the front is not possible without pulling the driveshaft, once you've one it once it's vey easy though.
Sorry there's no pictures, I'm a techno numpty that likes to hammer and bash things! If you aren't sure about anything I've posted feel free to ask but its all quite straightforward, honest!
Roger.
Guess you don't need my old rusty broken one then ?
