removing ignition/switch from my r1100gs

[marco75°]

Hello everyone!
i'm trying to remove the ignition switch under the key/lock but i'm not sure if the operation i'm doing is correct in order not to brake something.
Can you help me?
thanks a lot!

 

[Paul G (BHT)]

Just being cautious here... could you tell us why you want/need to do this?

 

[Sea Lion]

Are you trying to remove just the key barrel or the whole igntion unit?

To remove the key barrel, insert the key and release the barrel by inserting a small nail in the hole of the casing, about where the bottom of the key is. This pushes a spring toggle out of the way. Keeping the nail in, wiggle the key and the whole barrel assembly should come out with the key.

 

[hops]

If you are

changng the wiring loom because of broken wires then you need to remove a small screw near the bottom of the ignition switch. It is in a small recess on the right hand side and has a spot of red paint over it normally. Remove the screw carefull, you do not need to remove it completely, then carefully pull the wiring loom from the switch housing by pulling it down. If you do a search I'm sure there are some pics on the site.

 

[Steptoe]

I was holding back - didn't want to encourage any shenanigineignesesnes

 

[marco75°]

when i turn the handlebar the back light does not work or it works, as the position of the handlebar do to the friction of the wiring with the frame! i think something could happen to my ignition switch!

 

[Tarka]

A very common fault is a broken wire in the section from the ignition switch to the connector under the tank near the headstock.
With ignition and lights on,twist and waggle this wiring bit by bit and you`ll probably replicate the fault.

If it is this problem,you can most likely do a repair in situ.
Move the tank back a bit (you don`t need to completely remove it ) to reveal the connector block.

Cut the sheath off the wiring to the switch and repeat the above test to find the faulty core (they often break inside the coloured insulation,and you can`t always see it ).
Snip it,strip it,join it,solder it !!
Ideally use heatshrink insulation over the soldered joint.

 

[richie]

when i turn the handlebar the back light does not work or it works, as the position of the handlebar do to the friction of the wiring with the frame! i think something could happen to my ignition switch!

Had that too marco...

Change the cable and all is well...

 

[Grazoid]

Just to ressurect an old thread... Tarka,what if the broken wire is at the ignition switch end.... Is there enough wire to effect a repair or is it a new switch time?

Just going out to look, when I had to be recovered from work on Thursday night it did look like the fail was at the switch end.

 

[davegs]

Just to ressurect an old thread... Tarka,what if the broken wire is at the ignition switch end.... Is there enough wire to effect a repair or is it a new switch time?

Just going out to look, when I had to be recovered from work on Thursday night it did look like the fail was at the switch end.

The harness from the switch is a seperate bit that plugs into the switch and main wiring loom available as aspare from your friendly BMW dealer.
Dave GS.

 

[Grazoid]

The harness from the switch is a seperate bit that plugs into the switch and main wiring loom available as aspare from your friendly BMW dealer.
Dave GS.

Hmmm at least 60 quid plus for another bit of dubiously soldered connections and exposed wires... or less than 60p for some bits of wire from the parts bin, a few bits bit of heatshrink and 20 mins of wire stripping and soldering new cleaner joints and improving the weather protection...

 

[Renatus]

Another resurrection of the thread. My rear light was intermittent which was caused by the grey/blue being broken very close to the ignition switch, but most of the other wires are on their way too so I'll be replacing them as well.

 

[Chrizm]

Another resurrection of the thread. My rear light was intermittent which was caused by the grey/blue being broken very close to the ignition switch, but most of the other wires are on their way too so I'll be replacing them as well.

How did you manage to strip the switch down to expose the solder connections?

Im just wiring in for some spots and have noticed the purple wire has already broken, which isn't used anyway, but the red is also fraid!

Im doing a 4000mile trip round europe in July and would hate to loose all power during that!

 

[Ventura]

Security Bolts

Hi,

I've a loose ignition lock on my R1100GS, I'm going to have to get the security bolts out and then get it tightened up.

Is there a tool to get them out or is it a drill job?

When I put it back together to test it I'm going to fit normal bolts (obviously it could affect my insurance if I left them in so I'm not going to do that!).

Has anyone fitted standard bolts (allen or torx) in place of the security ones?

Cheers for any help

 

[Black Rooster]

just get any anti tamper bolt of the correct lenght and thread

i dont know the tread or lenght his link is just an example ( you over tighten the head and it will shear off leaving a bolt in place)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-M8x1-...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43b25948e4


this bolt wont fit its just for the piccy

 

[Steptoe]

Is there a tool to get them out or is it a drill job?


Has anyone fitted standard bolts (allen or torx) in place of the security ones?

Cheers for any help

Drill the security bolts a few mm's deep with a 4-6 mm drill bit then hit in a torq bit and unscrew.

I always replace them with a standard allen/cap head bolt.

 

[Ventura]

Thanks Steptoe, what size standard bolt fits?

Cheers

 

[Ventura]

Bolts out, cheers Steptoe, that's a pint I owe you.

 

[Wolfman]

Hi

My 98 R1100GS failed me the other day whilst out, had to be recovered, Lots of Fun!! Not

The fault appears to be where the cabling goes into the bottom of the ignition switch, wiggle it and it cuts out

Am I right, that the electrical circuit parts are available separately, taking the security grub screw out and replacing the electrical switch and reconnect to the loom.

Ignition switch electrical part with wiring​

810mm, original was 430mm


SKU
ELA05742-3
Associated BMW part
31322305742

£126.00


The key and lock are all OK

Thanks

Gary

 

[GORILA]

My 98 R1100 ignition switch also failed whilst I was on the move. I did however manage to restart it and get
home.

In my bike the ignition switch grub screw was a regular flat head screw, so perhaps it hard been changed before. I found that once you loosen it and back it off little, you can easily pull down the switch from the ignition barrel.

Be careful when you prise the switch open.

There are 3 small springs which keep pressure on the contacts. They can easily drop or 'ping' out and get lost.
I believe, these springs with time compress a little and affect the contacts inside, causing the ignition failure.
Some people I see have managed to find replacements. With my bike I just stretched the springs a little and this seems to have helped.
I put everything back together and the bike is working fine!

If your ignition wiring looks sound it might be worth checking the switch, as above, before buying the expensive replacement.