marcopol
Registered user
I cannot find the link to Steptoe's guide to the above. Can someone point me in the right direction please.
Replacing Crown bearing R1150GS
- Thread starter marcopol
- Start date
marcopol
Registered user
Bearing
Got it. Rear drive now stripped. Crown in bits. Everything else seems ok. I suppose I may as well replace the non damaged tapered bearing while I am at it. The big seal appears OK so I will not need to replace it.
Got it. Rear drive now stripped. Crown in bits. Everything else seems ok. I suppose I may as well replace the non damaged tapered bearing while I am at it. The big seal appears OK so I will not need to replace it.
Don't fek about doing half a job.... that seal is only around £/€10 so you would be wise to change it now
marcopol
Registered user
Bearing
Hear a lot about shimming under the bearing. Do I not just go with whatever shims are already there. If not what is shimming used to achieve. What specifications/tolerances am I trying to meet.
Hear a lot about shimming under the bearing. Do I not just go with whatever shims are already there. If not what is shimming used to achieve. What specifications/tolerances am I trying to meet.
Welshman
Registered user
If it has done about 50,000 with current shimming and that is cool for you, leave the shims as is and budget for the same in another 50,000
marcopol
Registered user
Bearing
Bike only has 44K
If it has done about 50,000 with current shimming and that is cool for you, leave the shims as is and budget for the same in another 50,000
Bike only has 44K
yep just use what shims are there but make sure new brg is all the way home.
Bearing tolerances are very tight so if the factory built it right then the shims should be fine as long as you don't damage them. I believe that they are there to provide the correct preload on the taper roller.
My original lasted 25,000 miles, I replaced the big bearing and seal myself using the original shims which then lasted to 61,000 miles.
If you want the entire FD sorted I can recommend Scriminger Engineering. I think they charged me £250 including the carriage to send it back to me. Mine had failed again at 70,000 ish, shortly before I shipped the bike to the USA for an 8,000 mile trip. I didn't want to do it myself as the taper roller was knackered as well and I didn't have the equipment, knowledge or time to do it myself as it would almost certainly need different shims.
marcopol
Registered user
Marcopol The most important thing is to get the bearing settled in the outer cover so that there is no space between the inside of the outer cover, the shims, and the outer bearing face
I think this were a few novices end up with failures somewhere down the line
Getting the outer pretty hot will allow it to "Fall Over the bearing"
But be careful also not to load too much pressure on the bearing cage of the little one!
I think this were a few novices end up with failures somewhere down the line
Getting the outer pretty hot will allow it to "Fall Over the bearing"
But be careful also not to load too much pressure on the bearing cage of the little one!
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