Replacing the battery

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walkon40

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I need to replace the battery on my 2000 1150 GS. I know it sits under the tank and that my BM dealer tells me I need to take the tank completely off, which includes disconnecting (one of) the fuel pipe(s). Is this so? Which one (there are supposed to be two of them) do I need to disconnect. And is there a DIY way of ensuring that I don't drain the tank accidently (I don't have a tailor made clamp)

thanks

Martin
 
Remove r/h black panel,
Unbolt tank (single bolt, rear right),
Disconnect both fuel line using the Quick Disconnects,
To the rear of tank are two narrower breather / overflow hoses with plastic connectors- disconnect both, one above & one below the connector so you can reconnect correctly,
Disconnect the plug in connector & lift tank back & up.

If you have a GSA, don't forget the crossover fuel pipe.

Fitting is reverse of above.

I think there's a procedure to carry out once the tank's been re-fitted, something to do with reseeting the TPS if the batterys been disconnected?
 
I don't think you will have quick disconnects fitted to your bike so you will need to clamp the fuel pipes.
I used a brake hose clamp to seal the pipe when I was fitting the quick disconnects to my bike.
The brake hose clamps are very cheap to buy if you haven't got them and are much safer to use than mole grips.
 
Steve Pickford said:
I think there's a procedure to carry out once the tank's been re-fitted, something to do with reseeting the TPS if the batterys been disconnected?

If it's the same as the 1200, you turn on the ignition and then open the throttle fully, twice. That's all there is to it.
 
The brake hose clamps are very cheap to buy if you haven't got them and are much safer to use than mole grips.

Cheers for this. Any idea who sells them - Halfords? M'cycle shop?

Martin
 
I have a 2000 1150. There are no Quick Connectors fitted. However, ou don't need to disconnect any of the plumbing when fitting a new battery.

I found that if you lift the (empty) tank from the rear and rotate it to the right it will lie on its side on a suitable surface. I used a large packing case with a towel placed across the surface.
 
I recently replaced the battery on my '02 1150, and I certainly didn't need to remove the tank. Simply removed the bolt from the RHS of the tank, (under the plastic cover) and the rear of the tank lifted high enough for me to support it with a length of 1" square wood 13" long. This provided more than adequate room to work. Just reset the TPS sensor before you start the bike as described by Mouse. :beerjug:
 
I've just replaced my battery on a 2000 1150GS. I don't have QD fittings either.
After reading the service manual thingy it seemed really easy to do - basically what longdog says - but mine didn't want to play that way.
OK I says, I'll read the Clymer - they seem to think that all sorts of bits need to be ondone / removed. Thought there must be an easier way - don't panic, slow down, have a look.
My method (it helps to have the tank as empty as possible)
1) Remove r/h black panel
2) Unbolt tank (single bolt, rear right)
3) Lift tank at rear, pull backwards, lift & twist to the right so tank is on it's side
4) Get friend to change battery over (not forgetting negative off first and on last) whilst you hold tank (depending how strong you are determines how full the tank is :D )
5) Relace tank (taking care not to trap anything), replace bolt and replace black panel
6) MAKE SURE THAT STUPID THROTTLE CABLE IS PROPERLY SEATED ON THE RIGHT-HAND SIDE
7) Turn on ignition, fully open and close throttle twice, then press starter

(There is always the possibility of role reversal for 4) if you think your friend is better suited to holding it for you whilst you do the technical stuff :D :D :D )
 
I've had the tank off mine several times without the QD's or clamps. I simply found two straight shank twist drills the right size to slot up the hose's, just shove the plain bit up there and bobs yer grannys dad, or you could use any round thingy that will fit snugly in the hose's from the tank just to seal them for a while. one thing it is easier if the tank is low on fuel.

Theres normaly a bodge round most things without fancy tools!;)
 
walkon40 said:
Cheers for this. Any idea who sells them - Halfords? M'cycle shop?

Martin

Yes you can buy them at Halfords or any Motor accessory shop. The ones I have were about £2. It reduces the amount of petrol that is spilt before a bung can be put in the end of the pipe.
 
And for the tank removing virgins..DO NOT FORGET that the nut that the bolt goes into is not captive. Keep a finger on it as you undo it, or you will spen ages looking for it;)
 
I know its the 1100, but I got my battery out like this.

Phoah, talk about sophistication !!! Thanks for all the advice, once my wife brings home battery 2nite, will try all the advice you've given me:beerjug:

Martin
 
i did the exact same thing but i used a gentle persuader
with a rubber head to hold up the tank no need to take it off
 
stopping fuel spills;

FWIW - i've used a golf tee stuffed up the open end of a fuel line when desperate. it works!;) i keep one in my onroad tool kit now.

Og.
crude but effective.
the idea! - not ME! :D
 
o.k. - did a four hand job on the battery - wife held tank tilted to right, me replaced battery, caught two snow/hail showers on the job:D :beer: . Put everything in place (by now with torch in mouth and OF COURSE CAUGHT THE B*****Y THROTTLE CABLE, so bike didn't start. This has by now happened so often on R850 and 1150 that I knew what the prob was.

thanks folks for the advice, you're worth every penny (well, forum sponsor:D )

Martin
 


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