Roadlok problems

AustinW

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So, mid-way through Spain heading south 4 days into our trip just outside Ávila as it happens my Roadlok key refused to turn enough to release the locking pin. No amount of jiggling the key or the locking pin made a difference. Fortunately the pin hadn’t engaged with the disk so I carefully removed the caliper bolts and slid the whole roadlok unit off, carefully avoiding any other holes in the disk. It was like something out of Mission Impossible. Big Sweat on.

Once off, the lock turned that extra few degrees and the pin could be removed. Blanking plug back in, caliper and bracket refitted and we were away. Phew. Emergency disk lock bought at a dealer we passed on route.

But the key is very loose in the lock. I think I know how to remove the lock barrel (I’ve read how to anyway - can’t be hard) but I suspect it’s just worn and needs replacing. Plus I’m in hotels so service facilities limited to drowning in hot water and douse in wd40 or similar that I’d have to buy.

Lock is about 4 years old and apart from the occasional blast with soapy water with the plug out while washing the bike and a dash or two of Chubb lock maintenance spray I’ve never done anything else to it.

Question. Should I bother attempting a field service. Although I don’t think I’d trust it unless I found a “smoking gun” type fault that I could fix. The lock feels just worn out. The key is both sloppy, graunchy to turn with the last 45 degrees or so going very stiff. I’ve browsed here and other places. Nothing ventured nothing gained is my maxim generally but on this occasion it feels like I’d be wasting my time. Plus the wife gets stressed when I start taking things apart that in her opinion can wait until we get home. (Like after I refitted the caliper before she needed reassurance (a good dab) several times that the front brakes really did still work).

I’m inclined to wait to til I get home and just order another key barrel.
 
Mine was full of grit and difficult to lock/unlock and the pin was stiff. I spent a while with WD40 blasting it out and operating the key until it turned freely.
 
My wife’s did similar when we were out a few weeks ago. Luckily I managed to get it to unlock.

Followed their advice of lubricating (lock, not wife) with dry graphite powder and it’s as good as new.

They strongly advise never to use a wet lubricant as it makes grime stick and jam the lock.

I must say, it was a home goal as they say you should regularly lubricate it and she never has in 3 years.
 
There's a hole at the front where you poke soemthing in to release the lock barrel. Unfortunately, it lets a lot of crap in so I tend to cover it with a patch of helicopter tape.
 
Can of spray brake cleaner to get all the grit /oil out and use graphite powder, once it’s all dry.
 
Cosmetically attractive, but more plague than profit.

A true curate’s egg.

It's one of those things in modern biking that belongs in biking of the past: it requires a little attention a few times a year to contune being reliable and causes utter grief when neglected.
For me it’s the convenience of something so small & light yet so effective that is mostly carried on the bike. The maintenance bit is neither here nor there really and I’ve mostly done what’s supposed to be done but used wet Chubb lock lube (which I assumed dried to powder actually- must look at it). The lock itself feels sloppy now so I’m assuming grit has got in and has worn parts. So it’s not a roadside fix.

The little disk lock cost me €49 and will have to do and I won’t be leaving the bike anywhere obviously risky overnight or anything.
 
It's one of those things in modern biking that belongs in biking of the past: it requires a little attention a few times a year to contune being reliable and causes utter grief when neglected.

I’ve never owned one.

But, given its exposure to the elements (let alone the road crap driven onto / into it) I can well see that prevention is much better than cure.

:beerjug:
 
For me it’s the convenience of something so small & light yet so effective that is mostly carried on the bike. The maintenance bit is neither here nor there really and I’ve mostly done what’s supposed to be done but used wet Chubb lock lube (which I assumed dried to powder actually- must look at it). The lock itself feels sloppy now so I’m assuming grit has got in and has worn parts. So it’s not a roadside fix.

The little disk lock cost me €49 and will have to do and I won’t be leaving the bike anywhere obviously risky overnight or anything.
I agree, It's convenience and effectiveness far outweigh the minimal input required to prevent problems (Guess how I know? 😃). I've been lucky and got away with minor inconvenience such as a sticky barrel and bent keys but now it's on my maintenance list as essential. Chris at Roadlok UK was great to me when I contacted him for advice. Take care.
 
Off on a euro trip next week, thanks for the heads up I will give my Roadlok a preventive check/service this afternoon as it will be getting some daily use.
 
Some bods seem to simply engage the pin onto the disc, rather than through a hole in the disc itself.

The logic being:

A. That a thief will push the bike forward, thereby (presumably) engaging the pin in a hole.

B. If the pin freezes, it is not jammed through the disc.

Lord only knows if this is a cunning plan or not.
 
Had one on my 1190R for 11 years/32K miles. Before that, it was on my 1190S and before that, I don't know as it was bought second hand off here.

No issues. It's occasionally got a bit sticky to turn the key, but mostly just gets better on it's own. I've sprayed the lock with Duck Oil a couple of times, which is supposed to be a no no, but works for me.

I was recently very disappointed that the new Roadlok I bought for my MT09 wouldn't fit and so I had to return it :(
 
Some bods seem to simply engage the pin onto the disc, rather than through a hole in the disc itself.

The logic being:

A. That a thief will push the bike forward, thereby (presumably) engaging the pin in a hole.

B. If the pin freezes, it is not jammed through the disc.

Lord only knows if this is a cunning plan or not.
When I fit my pin if it doesn’t align with a hole in the disk then that’s where it goes. If the bike moves more than inch or two forward or back it’ll engage in the next hole on the disk. Push/rideaway theft stopped! Hopefully. I thought everyone did this and it was how Roadlok described the use of the lock. On the rare occasions I use the centre stand I do turn the front wheel until the pin engages. That more or less prevents the bike being pushed off the stand.

Fortunately when my lock froze a few days ago because the pin hadn’t engaged I could carefully remove bracket and pin complete. This is potentially a security weakness of the device as it took me all of a minute to undo the two caliper bolts and even with care to slide off the Roadlok bracket. Bike could now be pushed away. Possibly even ridden carefully.

In fact even with the pin engaged I reckon it’d be possible to push it through from the other side with a suitable drift (small Allen key would do it) until the pin is clear of the hole in the disk then rotate the wheel a tad until the pin catches on the disk and stays disengaged wiggle out the drift and bingo you can now remove bracket and disk complete. Although I can’t see a thief going to all that trouble unless they really wanted your bike. I’m going to try this when I get home in a couple of weeks.

I still think it’s a good product and will be ordering a new lock barrel for delivery shortly after I get home.
 
Some bods seem to simply engage the pin onto the disc, rather than through a hole in the disc itself.

The logic being:

A. That a thief will push the bike forward, thereby (presumably) engaging the pin in a hole.

B. If the pin freezes, it is not jammed through the disc.

Lord only knows if this is a cunning plan or not.
As someone else has indicated Richard, I think it would be almost impossible to lift the bike onto a lowloader or whatever without moving the wheel the very small amount needed to enagage the pin.
 
Very often , I struggle to pull the pin out , because it is ‘ grabbed ‘ very tight by the disk. Tip ; turn the handlebars a little and it is then free to pop out.
 
As someone else has indicated Richard, I think it would be almost impossible to lift the bike onto a lowloader or whatever without moving the wheel the very small amount needed to enagage the pin.

I’m sure that’d true.
 
In fact even with the pin engaged I reckon it’d be possible to push it through from the other side with a suitable drift (small Allen key would do it) until the pin is clear of the hole in the disk then rotate the wheel a tad until the pin catches on the disk and stays disengaged wiggle out the drift and bingo you can now remove bracket and disk complete. .


NO ; you cannot push the pin out from the other side because it is fully encased . Perhaps you do not have this product and are being unfair ?

It is too early to promote this device but it is clever .
 
The website says treatment for cancer , so guessing that the owner is suffering ….
 
NO ; you cannot push the pin out from the other side because it is fully encased . Perhaps you do not have this product and are being unfair ?

It is too early to promote this device but it is clever .
Yes, you are right 🙄. After I’d sorted the little issue and we were riding along wifey asked what would have happened if the pin was engaged either the disk ( my translation of her vague question). Without looking I’d imagined I could have gained access to the back of the device. You really are fecked then if the pin is engaged and the lock or something fails.

Pic of the bike’s security tonight.
IMG_9776.jpeg
 


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