Round Ireland Trip (Revisited) 2009

[davidgibson999]

Had a blast doing this in 2007 so with a free weekend ahead I decided to complete the 09 Boyne Riders' Photo Rally.
So in summary, 1052 miles, 2 night's cold rough camping and one Final Drive oil leak, source and consequences yet to be determined...

Left Coleraine 9am under clear skies

Great feeling to roll the bike out of the garage and know that you've nothing to do for three days other than ride the bike. My EXPs were shafted at 2500 miles so I'd an old set of TKCs fitted a couple of days ago. First few corners were scary but I quickly got used to them. Barnesmore Gap was freezing and a light scattering of snow on the tops of the hills.

Impressive surroundings. And all too tempting to match with an impressive speed but the Guardai love this road for that reason so I myself in check. By 11am I'm in Drumcliffe, drinking coffee in the Yeat's Grave visitor cafe, right by the graveyard - brilliant wee cafe if you're passing...

As an aside, filled up with fuel at Dysart Stores, Dysart, confident that their credit card machine was working which it wasn't - I was 70 cents short of cash so if you're there please settle my bill!
Had a nice sandwich in Eyrecourt. Listening to the Mace owner's baby scream the whole time she was preparing the sandwich made me wonder if I did in fact want a child at all. Sitting outside on the step eating it (the sandwich, not the baby) I witnessed the strangest thing - a car stopped dead in front of a junction, the car behind slams into it, both drivers drive off without stopping. Weird.
Some lovely wee boreens:

Found Ballintober Castle (Point 23) and had to wait for a road sweeper to inch past before I could park up for the obligatory photo:

And then off to Point 24 for Galway - Pat Madden's plaque:

More to follow...

 

[davidgibson999]

Point 13 - Victoria Lock on the Shannon:

Thing I love about the photo rally is you get to places you'd never dream of visiting and get to ride some weird and wonderful roads.

Found Grantstown Castle (Point 16) and pulled in off the road to avoid a large herd of dairy cows:

Had the fortune to meet the young German stonemason who gave me the tour of the building. Hadn't realised it would be a renovation project. And has been for 10 years while the German owners live in a temporary chalet on site. The stonework is so intricate. Incredible work and what a great skill to have. The guy has been working there two years and finishes next week. He said mine wasn't the first BMW to have arrived unannounced. It will be a fantastic home when it's completed in two years.

 

[Jockser]

C'mon ya lazy bastid, where's the rest

Looks like fun

 

[davidgibson999]

Headed over the hills on a great road, the number of which I've forgotten. Some nice scenery...

Then photo rally point 17 - Dromana bridge:

At this point I was low on fuel and dusk was settling in so back to Cappoquin for fuel and happened upon a great layby area by a river - perfect for a rough campsite:

Now that the rain is on at 7:40pm and I'm stuck in my tent, presumably for the night, any noble notion of what I'm doing quickly dissipates and I'm left trying to get comfortable on my Thermarest chair conversion kit - not easy, involves a lot of miniscule adjustments of a belt on each side and I've realised that no matter how many times you work at it it you never get it right. Trying to get comfortable without spilling my Guinness that's perched precariously on top of my tankbag and without crushing my essential "P" bottle is a tricky one... It's a while since I've camped though and you forget what a great experience it can be. Once you've gotten over the fear that your sweet camping spot will become a haven for doggers on the stroke of midnight it's cool... In my normal week I'm rarely alone and I relish this opportunity to spend three days alone. It certainly focuses your thoughts on where your life is headed and gives great scope for good 'thinking time'. Great ride today. Not too fast. My last camping bike trip ended prematurely and instead of camping I spent two nights in Limerick General Hospital having a broken wrist plated up. I did not want to have to phone Lynda and sing Britney's classic "Oops I did it again"... Since that accident my poor mother requires constant text assuarance any time she knows I'm away on the bike - and that gets expensive when you're roaming onto O2 IRL.

 

[davidgibson999]

Saturday Morning.

Was in bed early but awake many times through the night absolutely freezing. My army surplus artic sleeping bag is either well past its sellby date or those squaddies sleep in full combat gear. I make a mental note to sleep in all my kit tonight.
Wide awake by 5am and listening to the birds. What do they find to say so loudly to one another at this time of day??
Got my breakfast (pretty crap one really - muesli, milk and an Actimel yoghurt).
Spend some time drinking green tea and catching up with my journal. The sun rises over the river - beautiful...

Found this beautiful castle but I can't remember the town - anyone know what it's used for now?

Some random shots:

Something about this next shot that I really liked:

 

[davidgibson999]

Photo point 18 Cork: Kinneigh round tower:

Been a cracker of a day so far and it's only 9am. The R585 running from Cork direction to Bantry was amazing - didn't have to pass a single car and the corners were great fun. Really cool, clear and crisp day. Have just turned off the N71 now for the Ring of Beara before heading over the Healy Pass.

The Healy Pass is stunning.

That's it for now. I'm shattered. Up since 4am. More tomorrow if you like.

 

[GerryC]

Lismore castle - home of the Duke of Devonshire (I think) Prince Charles a regular caller there apparently.

 

[Jockser]

Found this beautiful castle but I can't remember the town - anyone know what it's used for now?

It's Lismore Castle in Lismore, Co.Waterford. Nice wee town but I've never been in the castle

Edit : Bugger, beaten by the auld fella !

 

[Mr K]

....more!

 

[Ravenbyrne]

Jesus David your an absolute nutter...............

I got cold just looking at your pitch..........

Must be a great feeling all the same.........

Great pics

 

[GerryC]

..........Bugger, beaten by the auld fella !

Should be used to it by now.

 

[Jockser]

Should be used to it by now.

I am. But it still grates

 

[(RIP) petcul]

Keep it going David. Great stuff

 

[vireo]

Pretty sure that you would have come over the The Vee gap.......that 'great road' over the hills. R668 between Clogheen and Lismore/Cappoquin.

Enjoyed the write-up........

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now, how can I arrange a few days off....!

 

[Aidan1150]

Something about this next shot that I really liked:

Dinner.

 

[GS TRV]

Hard-core

 

[davidgibson999]

Once you get to the top of the Healy Pass you're on the border between Cork and Kerry and this is your view:

Apparently funeral processions used to stop at this point and push the coffin over the boundary. (according to an information sign anyway...)
In 2007 I found a cafe in Kenmare and had lovely pancakes. Found it again - Cafe Mocha. Got my iPod partially charged up, ordered pancakes (obviously bought in and very rubbery) and an americano (very weak). TunedIn liked the photo I took there last time so here's another for you Gary:

Then it was off to find the Ballaghbema Gap again.

When I finished taking this picture the bike was leaned over and I couldn't get it righted. By this time a lorry and a van had stopped right beside me and were transferring a pile of newspapers from one to the other. I had to roll the bike forward to a flatter surface before mounting. Unfortunately I gave the throttle a real handful when pushing it forward and over the roar of the Akras I could hear a scared shout of "Jaysus!" Not looking back I quietly mounted my steed and crawled out of the side road and turned left at the crossroads...

Ballaghbema doesn't disappoint. Last time I was here the weather was poor and the gap took on a magical, brooding almost Tolkien-esque quality. Today, in the perfect conditions, it's simply beautiful:

 

[davidgibson999]

Continued along this beautiful stretch of road until I hit the N70.

The N70 (part of the Ring Of Kerry) is usually best avoided according to locals. However, in March it wasn't at all busy and on such a glorious day the bends were a delight and I enjoyed every mile of it. Turned off eventually to find Photo Point 19, the old coastguard lookout:

Met half a dozen bikes of all descriptions on this road, presumably on their way back from photographing this tower also. One of them was way over on the wrong side of the road on a bend and we nearly had a coming together.
The roads were awesome.
Wanted to ride the Gap of Dunloe. Last time I was there I was 11 years old. Just as I remembered it though. There's a sign at the bottom to the effect that only horses and carts are allowed to pass along it but I reckoned that was the tourist hunters chancing their arms so I motored on. Again, the views were lovely and as expected the horse and cart guys weren't overly friendly.

Did Moll's Gap next and stopped at the Avoca cafe for lunch. Met another biker on a 1961 BMW (can't remember the model). He was there for a rally in the area. Joined him for lunch. He told me what I thought was a funny story:
last July he was on his R1100GS with a Remus system. He'd pulled over on a bridge in the Gap of Dunloe to let a horse and trap pass and as they drew level with him the driver/rider said loudly "Horses have the right of way". He replied, "Well if I open my throttle you'll have the right of way all the way to Killarney"
I thought it was funny anyway...

Off to Point 15 - Cappagh old church:

And then a quick dash to Tarbert for the ferry:

At €9 for a single I thought it wasn't cheap, and said so to the ticket collector. "Ah, but what's cheap" he said to me with a twinkle in his eye. "€3" I replied. He looked at me blankly and moved onto the car behind me...
From Point 15 I could have ridden to point 14 just as quickly and a lot cheaper. Mental note made.

Was surprised to see that Point 14 was a rusting hull of the Matrisha at Inishmurry quay:

 

[kanhulk13]

Beauftiful ride...I did portions of this route on bicycle from Cork to Galway in 2 days riding (to arrive for the Oyster Festival) last Fall (we raised 100,000 GBP for charity!).
Guiness, oysters, Guiness, oysters, Guiness, Guiness, Guiness,...after that I forget...maybe Fish /n chips late at night...and then more Guiness!
One day I'll get back and do Ireland proper on the GS!

 

[davidgibson999]

Saturday evening.

By this stage of the day the weather was clouding over and it was getting colder. I was sorely tempted to look for a B&B around Galway but I battered on towards Achill. Eventually at Lough Corrib I pulled off the main road and hunted for a suitable camp spot. The old church and graveyard at Cargin looked promising but I wasn't sure if that was "allowed" so I spotted this place right on the shore:

Dusk was setting in good and proper now. Was too marshy to get the bike right off the road but I got it out of sight and pitched the tent where my helmet is lying in the photo. It was only after I'd the tent up that I noticed high water marks running right alongside the outer of my tent. At this stage I was too tired to care. Such a beautiful and peaceful spot. Not a ripple on the water. A couple of swans cruise past as I wait for the Trangia to boil. Pop open another can of Guinness but don't want to risk a night of constant bladder emptying so I tip half out.
In bed and out like a light by 8pm. Went to bed wearing all my gear bar helmet (although I was tempted - Triggerfish's haircut is cold), jacket and boots. Managed to keep warm and slept through until 4am. Got up, had my muesli. There's something very unappetising about muesli and nearly frozen milk at 4:10 in the morning. Got the tent down under spitting rain and set off in heavy rain. Took this photo at some ungodly hour:

Pretty crap photo- don't know why I took it or why I've included it but there you go anyway.

As I passed through Westport, Achill island was looking less and less tempting. The cold and rain were making me tense up on the bike and it wasn't just as much fun and my shoulders and upper back were beginning to cramp. As soon as I hit Achill I began to mutter unpleasant things about the person who put the photo point right on the outermost tip of the island. Once I was over the bridge and out of the village and heading across the moor the weather was abysmal. My fingers were numb, I was riding almost at 60 degrees to the road due to the high wind. I pull over and try and capture the misery:

Anyway, I get to the photo point, take my shot and get off the island asap:

A wet, cold and unpleasant ride north to Drumcliff follows until I make the cafe again and have a coffee and carrot cake. I manage a wry smile as I note the smiley which appears on my coffee:

At least the photo rally is complete!
Just leaving Strabane I feel a knocking from the final drive. I tell myself that this is not the case and that the road surface is affecting it. By Maydown I'm still not convinced and pull over at the Dupont factory and the rear wheel, tyre and brake disc is covered in oil. Ooops. I think about calling RAC but can't face an hour by the roadside so I hammer on. The bike is riding fine but for the knocking noise. I get home and take this photo:

Apparently I could be lucky and it's just a case of the FD being overfilled and the pressure building up and coming past the seal. I'll clean it off tonight, drain what's left and open up the FD and refill.

Thanks for reading.