rs or rt which one
- Thread starter jackassdave
- Start date
Seems a very fair price for a nice bike. Almost identical to my R100RS but mine has half the mileage.
ill stick up some pics later of the rt
Nice looking RS in the link - my next door neighbour has one just like that in his garage.
here we go ,todays work ,i really want to take the swinging arm off ,to send to the powder coaters ,but dont know if its a big ,job or not .allso dont want to fall into the trap of spending more than its worth (again),buyt i do want to paint /powder coat all the tatty bits 
ELIMINATOR
Registered user
Blimey, you're quick!
Oh to have so much room.
Oh to have so much room.
thats the annexe to the big shed 
ELIMINATOR
Registered user
Could someone explain why I'm getting a pang of nostalgia?
started it today without the exhaust on ,awsome sound !!!!!!
Backmarker
Registered user
Yep, That is EXACTLY what i said. 4 Wheel drive gives you more grip when accelerating - and when you need it the most is when accelerating from 0-5 mph - and no more grip when braking.
So nice to be in agreement.
and no more grip when braking.
Even engine braking???
what the hell has that got to do with an rt
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Very easy to take swingarm off. You'll need the 'special' swingarm socket ( about £7 from moto **** etc or grind an old socket down ). I'd also replace the swingarm gaitor ( about (£9.00 ) and the four stretch bolts ( £4 the lot ). After rubbing the swingarm down and spraying with satin black Hammerite ( I'd leave the final drive attached btw ). Just ensure you have the correct ( equal ) distance either side of the swingarm inside of the frame. Pre-load the bearings and then back off and torque up.
The four stretch bolts linking the swingarm to the gearbox are tightened feckin' tight Have swingarm horizontal when re-fitting the gaitor ( long cable ties are a good substitute for the securing thin metal bands on the gaitor).
The four stretch bolts linking the swingarm to the gearbox are tightened feckin' tight
Have swingarm horizontal when re-fitting the gaitor ( long cable ties are a good substitute for the securing thin metal bands on the gaitor).Backmarker
Registered user
I think you need to go back to Crapaud's post on page 6.....but I agree. Irrelevant to the Airhead forum so I will refrain from posting further responses to the 4 wheel drive thingy.
i was going to powder coat it ,but now you mention it ,i think if i remove it ,ill just spray it .
just watched some vids on you tube ,they recommend ,checking one side before you remove it with feeler guages to get the correct distance ,and i think the main large 27 mm nut ,was set to 127 ilbs /nm (ill have another look) ,i dont have a manual.
so before i look again ,if you remove it from the gearbox side ,remove that ,its still attached to the final drive ,is it then just a case of removing the four bolts from the outside of the final drive ,to remove the whole swiniging arm ,as i would rather powder coat it .or will the drive shaft still be attached
just watched some vids on you tube ,they recommend ,checking one side before you remove it with feeler guages to get the correct distance ,and i think the main large 27 mm nut ,was set to 127 ilbs /nm (ill have another look) ,i dont have a manual.
so before i look again ,if you remove it from the gearbox side ,remove that ,its still attached to the final drive ,is it then just a case of removing the four bolts from the outside of the final drive ,to remove the whole swiniging arm ,as i would rather powder coat it .or will the drive shaft still be attached
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127 lbs/ft ... you'll be through into next door
I pre-load at 15 lbs and then back off and tighten to 9 lbs/ft. Locknut should be 75 - 88 lbs/ft
If you want to remove final drive, you'll need a gasket between FD and the shaft..plus ( OE toolkit 10mm ring spanner is perfect ) slim ring spanner to release the foor nuts to the FD. I believe it is 39 - 48 lbs/ft for the ( X 4 ) bevel drive to shaft nuts on a 1985 R80RT onwards
The four stretch bolts hold the drive shaft to the gearbox and all comes away with the swingarm when the two mounts are removed. Replace equidistant gaps...you'll feel the adjusters nip up, then pre-load the lock nuts as above.
Easier to black hammerite it as drive shaft is in situ when removed etc. ( watch out for any oil draining from FD if leaving it on !!! )
MikeP has just posted a good read on painting....
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=284842
... you'll be through into next door I pre-load at 15 lbs and then back off and tighten to 9 lbs/ft. Locknut should be 75 - 88 lbs/ft
If you want to remove final drive, you'll need a gasket between FD and the shaft..plus ( OE toolkit 10mm ring spanner is perfect ) slim ring spanner to release the foor nuts to the FD. I believe it is 39 - 48 lbs/ft for the ( X 4 ) bevel drive to shaft nuts on a 1985 R80RT onwards
The four stretch bolts hold the drive shaft to the gearbox and all comes away with the swingarm when the two mounts are removed. Replace equidistant gaps...you'll feel the adjusters nip up, then pre-load the lock nuts as above.
Easier to black hammerite it as drive shaft is in situ when removed etc. ( watch out for any oil draining from FD if leaving it on !!! )
MikeP has just posted a good read on painting....
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=284842
ill see if i can do a link to the vid ..i need to get a manual before i start ,ans ill get the proper strech bolt ring spanner ,as i like to have the right tools for the job .
you may only use it once ,but for me its worth it
you may only use it once ,but for me its worth it
i think ill just mask up ,and spray in situ ,to much arseing about other wise .
no off to moto**** ,to spend some money .
ps ,kenny if your fitting fork gaiters ,do the fork dust caps come off first ?
no off to moto**** ,to spend some money .
ps ,kenny if your fitting fork gaiters ,do the fork dust caps come off first ?
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