kenny ,your two gaiter clips are not parallel !!!!!!!!!!!!,youll be marked down for that.
rs or rt which one
- Thread starter jackassdave
- Start date
Well, not at the same level, perhaps. No marks, all the same.
Thats the least of his worries. Have you seen the rust on that frame
Not to mention the manky speedo drive rubber, the dodgy electrical earth and the badly handpainted battery box...I'd be so ashamed 
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Thats the least of his worries. Have you seen the rust on that frame
Scousers don't do 'ashamed'
I'll cover the lot with hammered silver hammerite in the spring to give it some class - besides, blaim England Kev, he's the one that saw me comming ( I spelt comming right as well ) ! 
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Is it necessary? Maybe not, but, for the sake of a few hours for the acid etch to dry, why not. belt & braces. It will make a better job of it, unless you want to redo the job at some future date
i dont think i will , because i think ,if i prepare the swing arm properly,and wait between coats ,and apply enough ,ill get a good enough finish.
i think hammerite may work better bonding onto metal .
i think hammerite may work better bonding onto metal .
Do you mean smooth rite? Why not just pop the driveshaft out and have it powder coated? Unlike the early shafts the Cush drive driveshafts are pretty straight forward to get out, you just need a big vice and something like a cheap bearing splitter to use to pull down the drive cup. It'll give you a chance to check the condition of the shaft as well.
Pound to a penny your swinging arm bearings are pretty well manked after 20 odd years, you'll have fun getting them out though.
Scousers don't do 'ashamed'
I'd have thought you'd be more the original blue hammerite type of person
suprisingly the shaft ,and teeth etc look pretty good ,i dont really want to get get into to much .
allso ,how much oil should come out of the shaft /swing arm when removing it , i think i had about a half a cup full or less,and where does that oil come from ?
allso ,how much oil should come out of the shaft /swing arm when removing it , i think i had about a half a cup full or less,and where does that oil come from ?
id have to look at a diagram ,or thread ,on how to do it ,i know really id like it powder coated ,but didnt really want to spend to much ,it was meant to be a quick tidy up .
but we all know how quickly that goes out the window ,when you think ,ill just clean that up ,ill just replace that etc etc ..
but we all know how quickly that goes out the window ,when you think ,ill just clean that up ,ill just replace that etc etc ..
this is the only diagram i could find ,which is the bit i ned to remove to get the shaft out 
Thats the earlier heavy flywheel shaft without the cushdrive. Those can be an absoulute nightmare to get apart, the spline cup pulls onto a taper that can be a pig to pull off the shaft.
Your driveshaft is held in place with a circlip. in it's simplist form your compress the splinned drive cup onto the spring far enough to allow the circlip to be prissed out, the cup and spring can then be slid off allowing the whole driveshaft to be removed from the swinging arm. in practice the spring is a bugger to compress. I hold them in a vice with the opposite end of the driveshaft resting on the bed of the vice and the lip of the swingingarm under the jaws of the vice. A small bearing splitter from machine mart can then be used with a pull down the spring. and allow access to the circlip.
The BMW dealers usually have the correct tool for the job as well, the last time I had them do it it was £10 to take it out and £10 to put it back. If you haven't got a bearing splitter then it's not a bad idea. You could get them to take the swinging arm bearings out while your at it - if you haven't got the right tool this can be a pain in the arse. Don't be tempted to go for the later swining arm bearings, they are very expensive.
This is your driveshaft, the circlip is part number 8
Your driveshaft is held in place with a circlip. in it's simplist form your compress the splinned drive cup onto the spring far enough to allow the circlip to be prissed out, the cup and spring can then be slid off allowing the whole driveshaft to be removed from the swinging arm. in practice the spring is a bugger to compress. I hold them in a vice with the opposite end of the driveshaft resting on the bed of the vice and the lip of the swingingarm under the jaws of the vice. A small bearing splitter from machine mart can then be used with a pull down the spring. and allow access to the circlip.
The BMW dealers usually have the correct tool for the job as well, the last time I had them do it it was £10 to take it out and £10 to put it back. If you haven't got a bearing splitter then it's not a bad idea. You could get them to take the swinging arm bearings out while your at it - if you haven't got the right tool this can be a pain in the arse. Don't be tempted to go for the later swining arm bearings, they are very expensive.
This is your driveshaft, the circlip is part number 8
On mine, '82 RS, the spring, item 4 in the diagram, had a slight taper on one end, I forget which end, make a note of which end it was when you take it out. 
Good luck.
Good luck.
the bearings look ok ,ive cleaned it up ,and im just going to spray it ,all i wanted to do ,was get a bit of paint on it .
the other bits ,ill powder coat ,and ill be happy with that .
the other bits ,ill powder coat ,and ill be happy with that .
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The shaft drive runs in oil. There are four oils to change on the bike. engine, gearbox, shaft drive and FD.
Fork oil
Fork handles...
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like all threads on this site ,its starting to lean to the left
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Fork oils, there are two of them.
Not forgetting the brake fluid!
jeez, that's 7 fluid changes.
Not forgetting the brake fluid!
jeez, that's 7 fluid changes.
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