RT cruise control on a GSA
- Thread starter Nin
- Start date
Jepp.
It seems straight forward, and as mentioned earlier. I think the best way is to totally disregard BMW switchgear and create your own.
I can think of no bike with CC that has handlebars that will easily wok with the GS -gear. They all have different clutch reservoir, and even if there is a switchgear that may handle the different GS steering bar, we are talking major surgery to make it all fit and it will run up costs and labour to a level that simply is not worth the bother...
Looking at the scematics, it takes an on/off toggle switch and a 3way accelerate/decelerate switch.
The additional clutch switch may require some work, but gluing a little plate underneath the cluch lever and a tiny microswitch will do the trick. For a more advanced minded person there will probably be a way to squeeze an hall sensor inside the clutchhandle as well as drilling a 3mm hole for a 3 x 1 mm neodym magnet...
Brakelight signal is probably easiest to pull from the tail-light. The speedsignal from the GPS plug may pose a challenge if the frequency does not match.
Earlier bikes pulled the signal from the speedometer, but on the GS, the instrument cluster is CAN-bus, so it's best to stay away and sort out the GPS-connector instead.
As for the cables leading to the CC unit, it's probably best to make a small connector-box with a VERO-board and use this a central for all the wiring needed.
It seems straight forward, and as mentioned earlier. I think the best way is to totally disregard BMW switchgear and create your own.
I can think of no bike with CC that has handlebars that will easily wok with the GS -gear. They all have different clutch reservoir, and even if there is a switchgear that may handle the different GS steering bar, we are talking major surgery to make it all fit and it will run up costs and labour to a level that simply is not worth the bother...
Looking at the scematics, it takes an on/off toggle switch and a 3way accelerate/decelerate switch.
The additional clutch switch may require some work, but gluing a little plate underneath the cluch lever and a tiny microswitch will do the trick. For a more advanced minded person there will probably be a way to squeeze an hall sensor inside the clutchhandle as well as drilling a 3mm hole for a 3 x 1 mm neodym magnet...
Brakelight signal is probably easiest to pull from the tail-light. The speedsignal from the GPS plug may pose a challenge if the frequency does not match.
Earlier bikes pulled the signal from the speedometer, but on the GS, the instrument cluster is CAN-bus, so it's best to stay away and sort out the GPS-connector instead.
As for the cables leading to the CC unit, it's probably best to make a small connector-box with a VERO-board and use this a central for all the wiring needed.
I was going to mount the RT cruise buttons inside the aux light switch housing - it all unscrews
and if I had the full pin outs for the
ZFE Basic High (single J1 socket for bikes with Trip computer, ambient temp, ABS 11, ASC, TPMS)
and the
ZFE High (twin socket J1 and J2) with ESA and all the others as above). I might find some of the brake light / clutch signal stuff ?
and if I had the full pin outs for the
ZFE Basic High (single J1 socket for bikes with Trip computer, ambient temp, ABS 11, ASC, TPMS)
and the
ZFE High (twin socket J1 and J2) with ESA and all the others as above). I might find some of the brake light / clutch signal stuff ?
As for tapping the main harness in order to get the brakelight/clutch switch signal, this is doable, but frankly I think this is not a good idea, because:
- Any input from handlebar switchgear is a low-voltage type signal, where 'Off' mode is +5V and 'On' mode is GND, meaning a means of signal-conditioning is required. The ZFE does have an output for the brake light, while the BMS use the clutch signal internally only.
- The main wire-harness is well maid, protecting the wires. Braking it up in order to get to one of many wires means that a considrable part of the harness protection needs to be ripped up.
- Clutch switch goes to the BMS, while the brake light switches goes to ZFE. I.e there will be the need to brake up two major harnesses and intercept 3 wires.
- The clutch switch engage when the clutch is pulled all the way, in order to ensure starter protection in case of starting the engine while gear is out of neutral. This means that if you pull the clutch with CC engaged, and the engine is under a load (as in driving up-hill), the engine will rev up for a moment before it disconnects the CC.
So... this was my 'not recommended' input.
Here is my recommended input:
Brake-signal:
The tail stop light gets a ready conditioned +12V output whenever either brake signal is triggered, thus one wire covers both brakeswitches, and the cable harness in the tail only contain 3 wires, gnd, tail light and stop light. It's easy to get to and the signal probably needs no further conditoning.
Clutch signal: I think the only solution to the clutch protection is a signal that triggers before the clutch un-loads the motor, meaning a separate switch will be required. This could be either a microswitch, which will be able to handle +12V and need no further signal conditioning, or an electronic solution, which require signal conditioning. In both cases, it will be possible to install this on the lower side of the clutch handle, thus it will not be visible...
so as I suspected - but I just test fitted - the cut out on the GSA petrol tank (right inside) is the location the manu intended for the cruise control module - it is a perfect fit
so why the hell did they never bother to offer it as an option - I've scouted about and on the TC bikes parts drawings - looks like no market ever had it.....
so why the hell did they never bother to offer it as an option - I've scouted about and on the TC bikes parts drawings - looks like no market ever had it.....
Just found this, might be of interest to someone?
www.mccruise.com
Cruise Control for BMW R1200GS & GSA [Later Model with ABS II (NO NOISE)] servo
(10% GST will be added in the cart for Australian orders only) This cruise kit will only fit later model with non-power assisted ABS brakes (ABS II). If your bike is the earlier model with power assisted ABS OR NO ABS brakes, purchase the product for earlier model with Integral ABS. If you do...
www.mccruise.com
MWH
Registered user
I mentioned and linked it in post 5 
Was around a grand at the time so couldn't afford, seems its down to 786 quid which is still a bit steep for me. Cruise is the only thing missing to make my 09 perfect for me, may get the atlas thing as a compromise.
Was around a grand at the time so couldn't afford, seems its down to 786 quid which is still a bit steep for me. Cruise is the only thing missing to make my 09 perfect for me, may get the atlas thing as a compromise.
Just found this, might be of interest to someone?
Cruise Control for BMW R1200GS & GSA [Later Model with ABS II (NO NOISE)] servo
(10% GST will be added in the cart for Australian orders only) This cruise kit will only fit later model with non-power assisted ABS brakes (ABS II). If your bike is the earlier model with power assisted ABS OR NO ABS brakes, purchase the product for earlier model with Integral ABS. If you do...
I fitted one of those McCruise units to my ST1300 Pan European - it worked really well and was a great product. But pricey.
Just looking at the K1300 cruise set-up, that should also be made to fit (I think it’s the same as the RT version). Or just buy an LC, they’re good bikes too.
thats what the thread starts talking about
I was wrong about the space on the inside right of the GSA tank (its JUST too small - needs room for the suspension to clear safely and that's missing) the RT and K13 module is absolutely massive (it can go under the seat if you chop stuff up and leave out the top of the tray but the angle for the cable is weird) - we have NOT understood yet if you can wire up to the bike as BMW software and wow are silly
knutk, gave the pin outs on the module to wire up the unit outside BM software - I gave up bothering so far on my good one... as the TC engine is PLAIN disgusting and the handlebar vibration means I've only done about 200 miles in the 6 month since I bought a mint one.
Actually took it out a few weeks back to spin the fuel round things - and realised the TC is NOT as gutless as you think down the bottom of the rev range - its incompetent engine management and throttle response - (forget the Traction Control that's not the issue on either engine)
On the air cooled 1200 with the original engine, the throttle is far lighter in action and far easier to modulate - so you can EASILY dial in exactly enough grunt to be on the EDGE (of rear tyre grip) in nearly ALL riding situations all the time - meaning its fun, chuckable, and safe...
On the TC - in some STRANGE slight of hand - they have utterly messed it up - the throttle is far too stiff, and the initial response to small throttle application is perverse - its hard to describe, but you think its totally gutless - but with the cold temps and patchy damp conditions you need to re-calibrate how much throttle you can throw at the rear tyre (or you'll be looking the wrong way siding down the road) - yet on the TC its impossible to get right - so you end up not able to get the power it has down in the way you want - so its just recalcitrant ALL the time, as you can't manage to put as much power down as you can easily get spot on on the older engine - making it slow, snatchy, unpleasant and dangerous - instead of fun
On KTMs of years gone by they did other profiles for the logarithmic spiral on the right twist grip - allowing different modulation of the throttle at different parts of its application - I guess its this that is fundamentally wrong on the TC bikes
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