RTW 2009/2010

Cali

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Cali is a town with a serious pulse and the noise levels are beyond belief. Wherever you are now, if you were alone in the house and plugged out the electrical appliances in the house what would you be able to hear, not much probably?

Without a doubt the biggest adjustment you have to make when you come south is learning to live with the noise levels. As I sit here I can hear music blaring from at least three different sources almost as if they are trying to drown each other out.

Every now and then a siren goes off outside and when there’s no siren there’s the grinding noise of 40ft lorries air brakes. The air conditioner and the fan are on their last legs and are groaning in protest about being run on the ragged edge. The Ceiling fan looks likely to come out of its creaking bracket at any second no doubt decapitating me in the process. There’s a child roaring crying outside in the lobby because the twenty other kids who are playing chasing outside wont play with him.

The guy in the room next door is trying to drill a hole out the back of his girl friend and every now and then I hear the high pitched whirring noise of mosquito’s in my ear. All day this continues, peace and quiet is in short supply; plenty of time for that when I'm an oul fella! :-)

I’d a Sunday to kill in Cali so I broke out the lonely planet to see what the town had to offer. All I’d heard was that it was one of the plastic surgery capitals of the world with lots of the local chica’s all having various parts of their anatomy altered.

It’s has a population of almost two million people and is one of Colombia’s most prosperous cities. Since Medellin’s role in drug trafficking was killed off in the early 1990’s Cali stepped in to fill the void.

The city is surrounded by a huge fertile plane and thousands of African slaves were brought here to harvest the sugar cane crops which grow in abundance in the area. The legacy of it is that Cali is the most Creole city in Colombia and is known as Colombia’s biggest party town, with Cuban style salsa music blaring from every second bar.

The first place on my list was the Plaza de Caicedo, which wasn’t particularly memorable. I crossed the river into the more touristy area which is full of restaurants and bars and it was good enough. Along the river the town is making a huge effort for Christmas, with decorations streamed across the river for huge sections. The heat in the place is brutal, 38degC so it’s not a city that you can do much walking around in.

As it was Sunday it was quieter than normal, as the shop traders were opening I couldn’t help but get the feeling that the whole town had a massive hang over. There were heaps of homeless people sleeping in any peace of shade that was available and the usual crop of street traders all selling the same junk that’s available in every town south of Tuscon.

Its a nice enough place, the outskirts are rough as **** but other than that a nice city, not a place to bring the kids though.

So tomorrow morning I'll collect the bike, that's if it made it!.....and redo the 300 mile journey back to Ipiales and cross into Ecuador on Tuesday morning.

Over and out...
Oisin

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<tr><td style="text-align:center;font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:11px"><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/Oisin.m.Hughes/SouthColombia02?feat=embedwebsite" style="color:#4D4D4D;font-weight:bold;text-decoration:none;">South Colombia</a></td></tr>
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Back to the Border

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First thing this morning I was off to BMW to see first of all did they get my bike, and if so had they fixed. The good news was they had, turns out the problem was the battery. Lots of Coulda Shoulda Woulda's followed in my head but **** it.... what's done is done.... to all those who said the battery.... I send you greetings high atop the mount of righteousness where you now sit.

I burned out of Cali as fast as was possible my aim being to get as close to the border as possible, some 300 miles away. It was 10am when I finally got going and by 5pm I was back in Ipiales, checked into the same hotel I stayed the last day.

Even though its now the fourth time I rode the ruta 25, 3 times on a bike, once in a taxi it all looked completely different.... for the most part the sun was out and the clouds put on a show that I'll never forget, hopefully the pictures above will give you some idea of what I'm talking about.

At one point I pulled over to the side of the road and looked out onto a massive canyon, in the distance white clouds were flowing down the mountains opposite and a chill breeze was blowing in my face..... man it was enough to make you rediscover religion.

I met the usual run of checkpoints along the way, at one point even meeting a bunch of soldiers who asked me to pull a wheelie, as the saying goes...."you're not in Kansas anymore Dorothy!"

Tomorrow I cross the border into Ecuador.... fingers crossed...!.... we'll see how we go
Over and out
Oisin


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Ecuador and the 50/50/90 rule

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I left Ipiales in Colombia at 6:45am and had stamped out of Colombia by 6:55...all going according to plan so far. I lit off in the direction of Ecuador, was almost the first person there and got stamped in through immigration and the customs guy had me done and dusted by 7:30 and I was burning down the pan american highway in the direction of Quito.

The weather was freezing! I saw some footage of the floods back home, and i'm here crossing the equator and it was only 12deg C! albeit at altidude, but very unseasonably cold... on top of that a friend of mine is further south near the tropic of Capricorn and its pissing rain and cold there too.... All the talk down these parts is of El Nino.....

have a read of below if interested
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/El_Niño-Southern_Oscillation

I got stopped by at a half a dozen checkpoints, Military, Police, Customs, Some crowd dressed in grey with lots of guns....and latter searching the bike for drugs. I was thinking to myself I thought the drugs trafficking went north? but I wasn't about to get into a debate with a bunch of armed soldiers, i was just happy they weren't asking me to grab my ankles.

Its really cheap here, 500ml bottle of water 22cents, diet coke, 40cents, gallon of gas about $1.70, really nice hotel $15 bucks.... if you give someone a dollar tip they nearly faint.

The countryside as you can see from the pictures is stunning, Volcanoes, canyons, rivers...although at least from the early running there isn't a bit of quality hula hoop in the whole country...lots of dianabol chinned women....nuff said.

When I got to Quito I got soooooo lost.

When I'm going through these cities I often stop for directions, and in Quito I stopped at least 20 times. Say for example you are on a road...you get directions and the guy says...just keep going straight....directo...directo.... and you'll be fine..... about 2 minutes later you come to a T-section. (not mentioned by the punter who just gave you the directions I might add!)

You can either go left or right.... so the 50/50/90 rule says that if you have a 50/50 chance of getting something right... 90% of the time you'll get it wrong.

And so it was in Quito...everytime I picked the right or the left...it was the wrong way. I even started to say to myself...ok Ois.... you think its right...so go left!...that'll be the right way... nope still wrong!

I eventually found my way out and made it to Banos......
We live to fight another day... and liverpool are out of Europe... is any sports team I'm following going to do anything?...the dubs, Liverpool, portarlington chess team...all losing!!!

I've had two three hundred mile days back to back... and my ass.... jesus my ass.... feels like my jocks are made out of ******* cactus!

Over and out
The big fella






<table style="width:194px;"><tr><td align="center" style="height:194px;background:url(http://picasaweb.google.com/s/c/transparent_album_background.gif) no-repeat left"><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/Oisin.m.Hughes/Ecuador02?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SwxkiZoYeFE/AAAAAAABV8s/bH4u5rqrPvM/s160-c/Ecuador02.jpg" width="160" height="160" style="margin:1px 0 0 4px;"></a></td></tr><tr><td style="text-align:center;font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:11px"><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/Oisin.m.Hughes/Ecuador02?feat=embedwebsite" style="color:#4D4D4D;font-weight:bold;text-decoration:none;">Ecuador</a></td></tr></table>
 
A day in the mountains in Ecuador....

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I scooted out of Banos this morning in a generally south direction, I just planned to spin round the Andes and make my way further south so I can make the border with Peru in one day tomorrow.

The roads around Banos are like a labyrinth, you can drive for a hundred miles around mountains and have only gone ten miles as the crow flies, if you planning on going to Ecuador, I recommend this place big time.

There was a policeman every 200 yards on the way into the towns today, I think they were expecting some organised demonstrations, it was the most amount of police I've ever seen in one day so no doubt something big was in the offing.

When I stopped for gas and went in for a jimmy riddle I came out and found a young fella with his hand in my tank bag, I walked up behind him and gave him a clip in the ear. He denied any wrong doing but the way I look at it...if the hand is in the tank bag its no different than if he had his hands on your girlfriends knockers. To his protestations I merely replied..."Go **** yourself ya thieving C**T" I drove off before anymore ruptions started.

The roads were a bit mental at times, with yawning chasms to your right side with just a gravel road beneath you at times; so there was no chance of me falling asleep :-); there were lots of crosses on the roadside for those who weren't so lucky on this road.

Anyhoot...tomorrow its peru...
Take care
Oisin


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<tr><td style="text-align:center;font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:11px"><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/Oisin.m.Hughes/Ecuador02?feat=embedwebsite" style="color:#4D4D4D;font-weight:bold;text-decoration:none;">Ecuador</a></td></tr>
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An ode to the mini bar....

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The last couple of places I've stayed have all had mini bars. Now they havent been the ritz, averaging about 20bucks a night...but they havent been shitholes either. And after 4 complete and utter mini bar wipeouts I have to admit I've the will power of a wild fox after being told to mind a bunch of hens.

I always walk in and say... "please dont have a minibar...please dont have minibar..."
and sure enough there always is one....with some crisps, peanuts, chocolate, salt crackers, pepsi, beer, candy....my failure always starts with the salty stuff.... "Sure you need to get some salt into you Ois after all that sweating on the bike".....at least that's what I tell myself. As my mouth drys from eating the peanuts and crisps..."Jaysus I'm thirsty..... the drinks start to go".....and of course.... drink is too wet on its own....."I've the ******* munchies..."....and there it is... all gone..... just eight or nine wrappers and bottles all staring at me taunting me with the words "Hughes, you've the will power of a rapist!"

I'm 107 days on the road now....and with a 1000 miles ridden in 3 countries in just the last 3 days I'm beat like a red headed step child. ( quote Jim Green! )

I made my way to the border with Peru today. I moved from the Ecuadorian Andes into flat planes where the whole landscape is dominated by Banana plantations. Did you know a banana tree only bears fruit once?.... when I heard that it caused me to emit a very high pitched and girly sounding "Really?" You get the feeling here that if you stood still long enough one of the Banana companies would plant a banana tree in your ear. In the west there's that big ass drive to eat 5 portions of fruit a day.. blah blah blah .... you'll live longer....and your arse wont fall off when your 85; It didn't translate in my head to a sprawling monoculture of Banana trees for as far as the eye can see till today.

In one day I went from 12degC in the mountains to 37degC in the planes, my body hadn't a clue what was going on. I got to the border and its a bit confusing... like most borders down these parts.

Theres a sign which says frontera Ecuador Peru ...this way.... so off I went but its only the Peru side which is working down that end...so you have to stamp out of Ecuador in the town...then come back out and then go down the three land highway to the Peru side.... all a bit mental...

It shows that the Peruvians and Ecuadorians don't get along too well....there's been three military conflicts between the two countries in the 20th century and Ecuador has a major bee in its bonnet with Peru allowing lots of counterfeit dollars to flood north in Ecuador.

Anyhoot I made it through fine and just headed south till the light faded and I stopped for the night to be confronted with yet another reed basket of goodies and a fridge full of beer.

"I can resist anything but temptation!" (Oscar Wilde)

Tomorrow I'm back in the desert.

Over and out
Oisin



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<tr><td style="text-align:center;font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:11px"><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/Oisin.m.Hughes/Peru?feat=embedwebsite" style="color:#4D4D4D;font-weight:bold;text-decoration:none;">Peru</a></td></tr>
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The Sechuran Desert, Peru, Day 1, (just pics and a poem!)

<table><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/Sw8ZXYWEsfI/AAAAAAABWhg/OrOjhWqNIs8/s640/IMG_7754.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/Sw8Z2nIBF_I/AAAAAAABWik/jGx9mo79me4/s640/IMG_7762.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/Sw8bPSaWkAI/AAAAAAABWmc/0_nXWnoczIQ/s640/IMG_7792.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/Sw8bZRKH8pI/AAAAAAABWww/SKXAZV4L62A/s640/IMG_7795.JPG"/></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/Sw8beuGAC_I/AAAAAAABWxI/WYS2OWOJfP8/s640/IMG_7797.JPG"></td></tr><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/Sw8bm3gPFXI/AAAAAAABWnk/lwqD5mXZ4CI/s640/IMG_7799.JPG"/></tr><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/Sw8bwv6xxvI/AAAAAAABWoA/TvSqEQqL0Mk/s640/IMG_7802.JPG"/></tr><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/Sw8cff3KoEI/AAAAAAABWqI/UlRKOUDG93Q/s640/IMG_7817.JPG"/></tr><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/Sw8chyFyiFI/AAAAAAABWqQ/yPWmQOlM_1w/s640/IMG_7818.JPG"/></tr><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/Sw8clZ-FPaI/AAAAAAABWqY/fAIPSnq9ekM/s640/IMG_7819.JPG"/></tr><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/Sw8ZcBHxLtI/AAAAAAABWhw/LymBkKmElGs/s640/IMG_7756.JPG"/></tr><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/Sw8ZTYnM7FI/AAAAAAABWhY/UEQ8tH_DfZ4/s640/IMG_7753.JPG"/></tr></table>

The Listeners

"Is there anybody there?" said the Traveller,
Knocking on the moonlit door;
And his horse in the silence champed the grass
Of the forest's ferny floor;
And a bird flew up out of the turret,
Above the Traveller's head:

And he smote upon the door again a second time;
"Is there anybody there?" he said.
But no one descended to the Traveller;
No head from the leaf-fringed sill
Leaned over and looked into his grey eyes,
Where he stood perplexed and still.
But only a host of phantom listeners
That dwelt in the lone house then
Stood listening in the quiet of the moonlight
To that voice from the world of men:

Stood thronging the faint moonbeams on the dark stair,
That goes down to the empty hall,
Hearkening in an air stirred and shaken
By the lonely Traveller's call.
And he felt in his heart their strangeness,
Their stillness answering his cry,
While his horse moved, cropping the dark turf,
'Neath the starred and leafy sky;

For he suddenly smote on the door, even
Louder, and lifted his head:--
"Tell them I came, and no one answered,
That I kept my word," he said.
Never the least stir made the listeners,
Though every word he spake
Fell echoing through the shadowiness of the still house
From the one man left awake:
Ay, they heard his foot upon the stirrup,
And the sound of iron on stone,
And how the silence surged softly backward,
When the plunging hoofs were gone.

Walter de la Mare

<table style="width:194px;">
<tr><td align="center" style="height:194px;background:url(http://picasaweb.google.com/s/c/transparent_album_background.gif) no-repeat left"><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/Oisin.m.Hughes/Peru?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/Sw8VUtgE4sE/AAAAAAABWuk/qHIEVAGvLrg/s160-c/Peru.jpg" width="160" height="160" style="margin:1px 0 0 4px;"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td style="text-align:center;font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:11px"><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/Oisin.m.Hughes/Peru?feat=embedwebsite" style="color:#4D4D4D;font-weight:bold;text-decoration:none;">Peru</a></td></tr>
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The Sechuran Desert, Peru, Day 2

<table><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SxB42m9lBTI/AAAAAAABW40/4VO89ymMRwM/s640/IMG_7918.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SxB6gASXyQI/AAAAAAABW-I/zdrrPbIIdRc/s640/IMG_7956.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SxB5aHnK8aI/AAAAAAABW6g/7EUaywDgBuk/s640/IMG_7929.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SxB7gCQrSSI/AAAAAAABXAU/eMQjCXpv09s/s640/IMG_7971.JPG"/></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SxB7p-U_mPI/AAAAAAABXAs/u4iVmF2c7CI/s640/IMG_7974.JPG"></td></tr><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SxB73l0y0dI/AAAAAAABXBE/bRibl-MD_Tw/s640/IMG_7977.JPG"/></tr><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SxB77O0tpVI/AAAAAAABXBM/u10SFs5u_Qs/s640/IMG_7978.JPG"/></tr><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SxB8GElWhaI/AAAAAAABXBs/yPrGsYNL7Cs/s640/IMG_7982.JPG"/></tr><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SxB9Mb1OTKI/AAAAAAABXEs/xOsvnG2LpzQ/s640/IMG_8005.JPG"/></tr><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SxB95lqj55I/AAAAAAABXGs/5_OG_BV_upQ/s640/IMG_8019.JPG"/></tr><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SxB-Hwycd6I/AAAAAAABXHY/QlbDkmPbqB8/s640/IMG_8024.JPG"/></tr><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SxB-R5Hhu_I/AAAAAAABXHo/upLMRv7-rJE/s640/IMG_8026.JPG"/><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SxB-0RUf_KI/AAAAAAABXJA/LnFMGU47gHQ/s640/IMG_8037.JPG"/></tr><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SxB_IiEpraI/AAAAAAABXKM/WS_mSdCutEw/s640/IMG_8044.JPG"/></tr><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SxB_oFo0e0I/AAAAAAABXLo/NkS8dZ8S6XQ/s640/IMG_8057.JPG"/></tr></tr></table>


After 525 miles today I'm completely smashed... and my ass feels like a piece of play dough.

Here is a little poser for you!

If you can imagine that the sun is static on the tropic of Capricorn, thats the one below the equator. Stay with me now....

Now imagine last night the sun set at exactly 6:15, then how is it possible for the sun to set ten minutes earlier tonight?, even though your travelling south? and the day should get longer? Took me a while to figure it out, if you look at the map of Peru, its because in the distance I traveled today I was also moving west to east as well as going north to south...after watching the movie 2012 I was feeling a bit apocalyptic for a while! :-)

The desert today was incredible. The only downside is that the peruvians treat it like its a dump. Outside every town for miles and miles just thrown onto the side of the road is millions of tons of garbage and rubble, its a shame but at least the junk isn't everywhere, just confined to the towns. The reason for so many miles over the last 2 days is that if your not into surfing theres very little for you in northern Peru. The people aren't overly friendly, the cops are ****ers, and the traffic in the towns is beyond belief, so I've been pushing hard... and my ass has been wondering just what It did to deserver all this punishment.

The amount of times today where I was nearly run off the road by oncoming trucks doesn't bear thinking about. On top of that grossly overloaded trucks shedding their loads and crazy desert winds combined to make it a day that I feel lucky to have survived. But I think if you look at the pictures above it was worth it. I think there's a price to be paid to get great views and great memories. For example to get a view from the top of a mountain the price you pay is to have to hike up one, and to see the desert in all its glory you have to risk something in return, unless of course you've a helicopter!

All the great religions of the world started in the desert, and when you see what's out there I think I can understand why. I stopped a couple of times today to try and soak it all up. Just looking out into the nothingness with the Andes glistening with sand in the distance you can feel yourself welling up.

If I'd to choose what I love the most in terms of scenery it will always be desert. I think its because in Ireland if you stand still a plant will grow out of your ear, so green doesn't evoke the same reaction at least in my head. I'm sure if you took a lad out of Peru and brought him to Ireland he'd have a similar perspective in reverse.


So that't it for today, the great thing about going to bed tonight (apart from being ****ed tired so much so I'd sleep standing).... is knowing that tomorrow I'll be riding all day in the desert again.

Take care....many thanks for all the comments
The big fella



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The Sechuran Desert, Peru, Day 3

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</td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SxCFDchprdI/AAAAAAABXhM/RJiXGaZ15eU/s640/IMG_8122.JPG"></tr>
</td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SxCBbAMAspI/AAAAAAABXQE/I2v0bR1YgXQ/s640/IMG_8087.JPG"/></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SxCAJAO32RI/AAAAAAABXNQ/2T8UN2zmBTc/s640/IMG_8068.JPG"></td></tr><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SxCAEHaN51I/AAAAAAABXNI/E3Cj2JYsWRU/s640/IMG_8067.JPG"/></tr>
<tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SxB-lSiOjEI/AAAAAAABXIY/cvlREWqmWvs/s640/IMG_8032.JPG"/></tr><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SxB-ERk4feI/AAAAAAABXHQ/TPotS-Y8NLc/s640/IMG_8023.JPG"/></tr><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SxB9Mb1OTKI/AAAAAAABXEs/xOsvnG2LpzQ/s640/IMG_8005.JPG"/></tr><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SxB95lqj55I/AAAAAAABXGs/5_OG_BV_upQ/s640/IMG_8019.JPG"/></tr>
<tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SxB8hLhZO_I/AAAAAAABXC8/vk0oEp3zjQY/s640/IMG_7990.JPG"/></tr>
<tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SxB5uOtOxDI/AAAAAAABW7o/6Loma2mjQUY/s640/IMG_7938.JPG"/></table>


I Choose the Mountain

The low lands call
I am tempted to answer
They are offering me a free dwelling
Without having to conquer

The massive mountain makes its move
Beckoning me to ascend
A much more difficult path
To get up the slippery bend

I cannot choose both
I have a choice to make
I must be wise
This will determine my fate

I choose, I choose the mountain
With all its stress and strain
Because only by climbing
Can I rise above the plane

I choose the mountain
And I will never stop climbing
I choose the mountain
And I shall forever be ascending

I choose the mountain

howard simon

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<tr><td style="text-align:center;font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:11px"><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/Oisin.m.Hughes/Peru?feat=embedwebsite" style="color:#4D4D4D;font-weight:bold;text-decoration:none;">Peru</a></td></tr>
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Nazca and some tips for the Peruvian tourist board!

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</tr><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SxGRFVmVL4I/AAAAAAABXnA/a01UOJwS5vU/s640/IMG_8158.JPG"/></tr></table>

I made my way to Nazca today, a relatively short hop from Chincha Alta where I stayed last night. As I was driving along I passed through some of the most run down beat up towns imaginable. Only on the news when I was looking at footage of Afghanistan would you see stuff to compare to it. The repeating pattern for all the towns is that either side of them there is rubbish and building rubble tipped for as far as the eye can see.

Its a hard enough country to travel in.... lots of niggly things which back packers or conventional tourists may not see.....but I was thinking of penning a letter to the Peruvian tourist board with the following recommendations...(only some of them are tongue in cheek!)

1) Problem: The amount of noise from Car horns, and every ****er having a police Siren...mental!!!
Fix :Limit the use of every vehicles horn to just once a day ...less noise...more sleep...more tourists..... nuff said.

2) Problem: Gas stations giving out Counterfeit Money: I was given a 50 and a 20 sol note...so good even when the next gas station held it up with a good one...I could barely tell the difference. They give em out no problem, but when I tried to pay at the next station not knowing it was a forgery...yer man went ******* cookoo. Like the guy driving the BMW is the one to be worried about when it comes to dodgy notes.
Fix: Get some credit card readers at the gas stations, oh yeah and you cut of a money laundering scheme at the same time

3)Problem: Every bit of rubbish, garbage, shit, animal carcases, dumped at the start and end of every town
Fix: Put it in a landfill... you've enough desert here...put it in a couple of trucks and put it in a land fill...fixes nothing in the short term but at least your towns dont look like they were just bombed

4)Problem: Every ******* house in the country is unfinished especially the upstairs
Fix: Instead of taxing people when the house is finished, tax them when it isn't, now your towns dont look like the ******* cookie monster was in nibbling all round the house.

5)Problem: Every single cop on the road is a theiving bastard. Either they fine you a bullshit amount or ask you for gas money for their truck.
Fix: Just tell them to stop doing it

6)Problem: Gas attendants robbing you blind: at least 5 times, wrong change, counterfeit money, not starting the counter at zero, starting to fill up the next guy before you paid so he bills the two of you....
Fix: Kill them.

7)Problem: Oncoming trucks running you off the road: Has happened me at least ten times since getting to Peru
Fix: Fit all motorbikes with Exocet missiles to blow up trucks in the wrong lane, to be also used against theiving bastard cops

8) Problem: No Tottie.... Not a looker in the whole country!
Fix: Ask Colombia for a few of their birds, they've more than they know what to do with


Anyway...like I said its a really difficult country to travel in, in that you have to put up with a lot. That said the roads are great and the scenery is magnificent so its worth putting up with.

I managed to squeeze in about ten miles of off road in the desert, about 40 miles north of Nazca, even though its sand there's a hard layer of stone compacted over a lot of it so you can barrel through it pretty easy... I'd a great time. I also got stung by a bee, or maybe it was a flying Scorpion.... on the neck. On a scale of 1 - 10 for sore...it was like a six...so not quite as bad as having to deliver a baby out the eye of the john thomas.( that would be a 10)

Tomorrow I head to Arequipa, then start making my over to Southern Bolivia so I can begin all 5000 km of the Ruta 40....

Take care
Oisin


Click the pic below to see all the pictures i took today...

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FANTASTIC PHOTOS and RR Oisin, look forward to the next instalment :bow

Norrie
 
South Peru

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I headed south from Nazca early this morning. I'm taking a coastal route south, most people at this point cut into the Andes and make their way to Cuzco, but having done that last year I said I stay on the coast and in the desert....details of that story in the below site.
(30000mileson2wheels.blogspot.com)

I was prepared for lots of things leaving Nazca, but one of them wasn't 10degC cold. Keep in mind this is one of the driest and in places hottest deserts in the world. Out here you would start to really believe the world is in big trouble weather wise, I passed a guy who told me that it had rained for two days solid in this area of the desert, in his whole life he told me he never remembers more than the briefest of showers. The rain meant that the cliffs were raining rocks onto the road at a savage rate. On top of that any of the more grassy mountains had all the top soil breaking up and it was sliding out onto the road, you can see one of the pictures above, it looks like all the top soil on the mountain is going to come down.

Anytime I stopped I could hear the rocks rolling down. Sort of thing that they used to do in the western movies... y'know ... John wayne is standing at the bottom of a hill, and a pebble rolls down ...and they he says... "Dem's apache's alright".... except in this case it just was going to mean a dose of rock coming down on top of you.

The road was littered with trucks with punctures and the odd car crash caused by either hitting the rockslides or rolling over the razor sharp chards of rock.

In flat sections of the road the sand had almost completely enveloped the road, and a digger was working furiously to keep back the onslaught in one area.

I was as close to being killed as I've ever been on three occasions today with the bane each time being truckers running me off the road. Two times a truck overtaking another truck ran me out to the hard shoulder on a cliff. If you go off the cliff you tumble to your death off the side of a mountain, you have about 3 feet to play with and doing 50mph that's not a lot of wiggle room.

I genuinely thought my number was up on one occaision, I'd even taken the time to say to myself..."Well theres worse ways to go..." as the incident was unfolding. At least when they would find the body the sea water below would have washed away all the shite in my trousers! :-)

More Soon! :-)
The big fella



Click the pic below to see all the pictures i took today...

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<tr><td style="text-align:center;font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:11px"><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/Oisin.m.Hughes/Peru?feat=embedwebsite" style="color:#4D4D4D;font-weight:bold;text-decoration:none;">Peru</a></td></tr>
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Arequipa, Peru

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I made it to Arequipa, and this is my third last day in Peru. Along the way I stopped in HANS fish restaurant on the coast, and when I went in I was stunned with how many bikers had left business cards, or website cards there.... blown away.

If you've driven this section of road you've probably stopped there, as the towns are so few and far between its one of the only fodder stops on the road. If your passing I highly recommend it, the chap who runs it is a gent and the grub is outstanding.

The other recurring theme along the way was how some people are forced to live in this part of the world, living in thatched houses on the side of the road, out in the middle of the desert. Its hard to believe that people can live in those conditions. No electricity, no floors, I'd go nuts!

I had thought that Arequipa would be a quaint little Colonial town but as soon I hit the outskirts and saw it sprawling away up the hillsides I knew I'd the wrong impression. All told it has a population of one million people, and the views everywhere in the town much like Antigua are dominated by a massive Volcano, except Arequipa has three of them, with El Misti being the one that dominates the skyline.

From here I head south along the coast to Tacna and Arica, crossing into Chile and the Atacama desert. This section of the desert is reputed to be the driest in the world so I'm looking forward to it.

Once in Chile I cut across to Calama, and San Pedro de Atacama, then cross into Argenetina and turn north to the border with Bolivia Where I'll start the Ruta 40. The plan is to do literally every single inch of the Ruta 40, over 5000km....easier said than done!...

Short and sweet like an Ass's trot!
Take care
Oisin


Click the pic below to see all the pictures i took today...

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<tr><td style="text-align:center;font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:11px"><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/Oisin.m.Hughes/Peru?feat=embedwebsite" style="color:#4D4D4D;font-weight:bold;text-decoration:none;">Peru</a></td></tr>
</table>
 
Great stuff again Oisin.

I went back and read all your 2008 blog and enjoyed it thoroughly. :)

Thanks. Keep the updates coming big lad. :thumb2
 


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