Bengaz
Registered user
Good luck, and be safe please. I want the rest of the report
RTW 2009/2010
- Thread starter Oisin
- Start date
Eugene
Registered user
Re: Racked with seething envy!
This road via Paso Jama is one of the best motorcycle roads anywhere in the world. I've done a few of them at this stage, the cabot trail, the Dalton, beartooth, transcanada, top of the world highway, tallaght bypass.....and this tops anything I've done so far, Oisin[/QUOTE]
I laughed a little too hard and a little 'wee' came through
Particuallary after riding the Tallaght bypass myself, nice writting style you have.
Oisin, I'm really enjoying what is an epic RR and as the title says, twisting in envious torment. This is the trip I've always had in mind to do, and with the Great Spaghetti Monster's help, I will.
Thanks for taking the time to post and take along this cubicle slave on the trip with your pics and writting
Best of luck on Routa 40, watch for the 'babies heads' from an envious Meath man to the adventourous Dub
This road via Paso Jama is one of the best motorcycle roads anywhere in the world. I've done a few of them at this stage, the cabot trail, the Dalton, beartooth, transcanada, top of the world highway, tallaght bypass.....and this tops anything I've done so far, Oisin[/QUOTE]
I laughed a little too hard and a little 'wee' came through
Particuallary after riding the Tallaght bypass myself, nice writting style you have.
Oisin, I'm really enjoying what is an epic RR and as the title says, twisting in envious torment. This is the trip I've always had in mind to do, and with the Great Spaghetti Monster's help, I will.
Thanks for taking the time to post and take along this cubicle slave on the trip with your pics and writting
Best of luck on Routa 40, watch for the 'babies heads' from an envious Meath man to the adventourous Dub
Ruta 40 Day 1
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Ever since I was a teenager, every now and then; like once every six months when I was enjoying lying in bed early in the morning a big fly would come into the room. Its always a blue bottle, or a big fuck off wasp..... just big enough that you can't ignore it...and I always end up getting up to take care of it by which time its already gone. I've always taken it as a signal that I've lingered too long and its time to go, today was no different.
A Little after dawn I headed for the town of La Quiaca, it was 244km from where I was, imagine that...riding 244km just to begin riding....
The scenery along the way was doing its best to make me think I was still back in bed dreaming and on the way I passed the tropic of Capricorn; I'd pass it again on the way back down on the Ruta 40. Its the third time in my life I've passed it and when I passed it in Australia somehow I got the feeling that I was much further south...but there ya go!
I got go La Quiaca, a town just on the border with Bolivia and started asking for directions for the Ruta 40.... I got about three different answers but eventually found it. I've read a lot about bikers lamenting the fact that a lot of the Ruta 40 is being paved.. well let me tell you... the gravel and sand is alive and well in Northern Argentina!
Straight away is was corrugated roads, gravel, sand and getting the shit shaken clear out of your ring. It was a clenched teeth white knuckle ride all day and I was sweating bricks. I could smell myself coming up into the helmet and when theres a lot of adrenaline and testosterone on the go its a pretty unique bang. I told myself that's the smell of a Jedi...thats why you never saw Luke Skywalker getting nailed....I was actually so bad by the time I got to a place to stay I just stripped off the enduro suit and showered with the socks, jocks and t shirt...if I'd put them into my bag in a day or two they'd have rotted through the rubber.
I saw two cars all day on the 40, you simply cant get any more secluded and sparsely populated than this place. The big challenge on this road is the poor signposting and the sand build up on any dips in the road. If you come to a Y on the road you've just got to go with best guess because there's no one around for a hundred miles to ask for directions.
I've been doing ok on the sand, but I'm never going to be good enough to actually enjoy riding on it....but I didn't have any near misses so was happy with that. The rivets in the road at times were so bad that I thought I was in a washing machine on spin... mad stuff.
As the day wore on the wind picked up, to the point where sand was blowing into your helmet and it was really difficult to keep your line on the road so I pulled off at about 4pm...as it happens in the same town last as night night... with my big loop of northern Argentina complete...its south now for 4,750km.
Anyhoot...if the pictures haven't told you already, Northern Argentina is out of this world.
I survived today and felt like I should have been getting below
(I'd so do Pricess Leia, even though she's my sister, actually its so long since I've shagged a bird I reckon I'd give Chewbacca a dart!.....)
Luke Skywalkers older brother, the one with three balls.
Over and out
Tres Huevos
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Ever since I was a teenager, every now and then; like once every six months when I was enjoying lying in bed early in the morning a big fly would come into the room. Its always a blue bottle, or a big fuck off wasp..... just big enough that you can't ignore it...and I always end up getting up to take care of it by which time its already gone. I've always taken it as a signal that I've lingered too long and its time to go, today was no different.
A Little after dawn I headed for the town of La Quiaca, it was 244km from where I was, imagine that...riding 244km just to begin riding....
The scenery along the way was doing its best to make me think I was still back in bed dreaming and on the way I passed the tropic of Capricorn; I'd pass it again on the way back down on the Ruta 40. Its the third time in my life I've passed it and when I passed it in Australia somehow I got the feeling that I was much further south...but there ya go!
I got go La Quiaca, a town just on the border with Bolivia and started asking for directions for the Ruta 40.... I got about three different answers but eventually found it. I've read a lot about bikers lamenting the fact that a lot of the Ruta 40 is being paved.. well let me tell you... the gravel and sand is alive and well in Northern Argentina!
Straight away is was corrugated roads, gravel, sand and getting the shit shaken clear out of your ring. It was a clenched teeth white knuckle ride all day and I was sweating bricks. I could smell myself coming up into the helmet and when theres a lot of adrenaline and testosterone on the go its a pretty unique bang. I told myself that's the smell of a Jedi...thats why you never saw Luke Skywalker getting nailed....I was actually so bad by the time I got to a place to stay I just stripped off the enduro suit and showered with the socks, jocks and t shirt...if I'd put them into my bag in a day or two they'd have rotted through the rubber.
I saw two cars all day on the 40, you simply cant get any more secluded and sparsely populated than this place. The big challenge on this road is the poor signposting and the sand build up on any dips in the road. If you come to a Y on the road you've just got to go with best guess because there's no one around for a hundred miles to ask for directions.
I've been doing ok on the sand, but I'm never going to be good enough to actually enjoy riding on it....but I didn't have any near misses so was happy with that. The rivets in the road at times were so bad that I thought I was in a washing machine on spin... mad stuff.
As the day wore on the wind picked up, to the point where sand was blowing into your helmet and it was really difficult to keep your line on the road so I pulled off at about 4pm...as it happens in the same town last as night night... with my big loop of northern Argentina complete...its south now for 4,750km.
Anyhoot...if the pictures haven't told you already, Northern Argentina is out of this world.
I survived today and felt like I should have been getting below
(I'd so do Pricess Leia, even though she's my sister, actually its so long since I've shagged a bird I reckon I'd give Chewbacca a dart!.....)
Luke Skywalkers older brother, the one with three balls.
Over and out
Tres Huevos
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excellent photos.
so you'd give chewie a dart?
that made me laugh
must be bad
so you'd give chewie a dart?
that made me laugh
must be bad
Ruta Fuckstory Day 2
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Today was my second day on the Ruta 40 and it kicked the balls clear off me. It started lovely with about 50km of road asphalt curving over the mountains. Once you hit the top of the mountains you move onto Altiplano......enter the Ruta 40. It navigates its way along the banks of a long since dried up salt lake.
The early going was easy peasy lemon squeazy and I was having thoughts like "Hmmmm is it that the road is easier today...or am I just getting better?". A piece of advice if you ever find yourself uttering the worlds "Am I just getting better" the next thing you should do is head off and buy yourself a very good jock strap, cos there's a mighty kick in the balls coming.
Things were going so easy I even pulled over to have a look at two ghost towns and in keeping with the previous day I saw two cars and one truck all day, somehow it seemed very appropriate to be in a ghost town.
Once I left the second ghost town I thought I could hear faint chuckling... like the angels were saying.... "lets see what the **** makes of this next stretch of road."
All the gravel went away and it was replaced with six inches of sand. At certain points it was like talcum powder, if you stopped the bike the following dust cloud surrounded you. To get through parts of it I just had to stick the two legs out to act like stabilizers and just burn along in first gear..... without a doubt the hardest going of the trip.
Every now and then you'd get a line and much like when your Queuing up in the supermarkets the line thats next to you always appears to be just a bit better, but you cant cross the gravel track without either stopping or bumping through it so you just keep ploughing along on your line...forever tormented by the sexier looking line on your right or left.
The early going was in a bowl surrounded by mountains. I was certain that If I could just get to the mountains the road would climb and that would be the end of the heavy sand. It seemed that no matter how long I rode the mountains just wouldn't get any closer and by midday I'd a right royal pain in my hole with the whole thing.
One of the worst parts of the trip today was the heat shimmer... it constantly gave you the impression that there was gorgeous sexy topless knickerless asphalt just ahead...but it never came, just more hardship.
Eventually as it always does the sand reduced as I climbed and was replaced with Gravel, but as I crossed the peak of the mountains it started to rain which turned the whole thing into a fuckstory. Whatever about keeping a line in the dry, when you visor is covered with rain drops you've no chance so the going became very very slow. I couldn't believe how much the landscape changed once I went over the peak of the mountains, on one side desert and blue skies, and on the other clouds and rain.
I made my way eventually to a town called Cafayate.... 2 days... 2 gold medals.. lay it on me Leia!
I'm sore all over... hips, knees, wrists, back.... tomorrows another day.....not surprising when you consider that I've driven greater than the length of Ireland on Gravel and Sand.... not bad going.
Over and out
the big fella
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Today was my second day on the Ruta 40 and it kicked the balls clear off me. It started lovely with about 50km of road asphalt curving over the mountains. Once you hit the top of the mountains you move onto Altiplano......enter the Ruta 40. It navigates its way along the banks of a long since dried up salt lake.
The early going was easy peasy lemon squeazy and I was having thoughts like "Hmmmm is it that the road is easier today...or am I just getting better?". A piece of advice if you ever find yourself uttering the worlds "Am I just getting better" the next thing you should do is head off and buy yourself a very good jock strap, cos there's a mighty kick in the balls coming.
Things were going so easy I even pulled over to have a look at two ghost towns and in keeping with the previous day I saw two cars and one truck all day, somehow it seemed very appropriate to be in a ghost town.
Once I left the second ghost town I thought I could hear faint chuckling... like the angels were saying.... "lets see what the **** makes of this next stretch of road."
All the gravel went away and it was replaced with six inches of sand. At certain points it was like talcum powder, if you stopped the bike the following dust cloud surrounded you. To get through parts of it I just had to stick the two legs out to act like stabilizers and just burn along in first gear..... without a doubt the hardest going of the trip.
Every now and then you'd get a line and much like when your Queuing up in the supermarkets the line thats next to you always appears to be just a bit better, but you cant cross the gravel track without either stopping or bumping through it so you just keep ploughing along on your line...forever tormented by the sexier looking line on your right or left.
The early going was in a bowl surrounded by mountains. I was certain that If I could just get to the mountains the road would climb and that would be the end of the heavy sand. It seemed that no matter how long I rode the mountains just wouldn't get any closer and by midday I'd a right royal pain in my hole with the whole thing.
One of the worst parts of the trip today was the heat shimmer... it constantly gave you the impression that there was gorgeous sexy topless knickerless asphalt just ahead...but it never came, just more hardship.
Eventually as it always does the sand reduced as I climbed and was replaced with Gravel, but as I crossed the peak of the mountains it started to rain which turned the whole thing into a fuckstory. Whatever about keeping a line in the dry, when you visor is covered with rain drops you've no chance so the going became very very slow. I couldn't believe how much the landscape changed once I went over the peak of the mountains, on one side desert and blue skies, and on the other clouds and rain.
I made my way eventually to a town called Cafayate.... 2 days... 2 gold medals.. lay it on me Leia!
I'm sore all over... hips, knees, wrists, back.... tomorrows another day.....not surprising when you consider that I've driven greater than the length of Ireland on Gravel and Sand.... not bad going.
Over and out
the big fella
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Cafayate, Nortern Argentina (Just pics)
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vireo
Registered user
Lovely pics Ois,
Sitting here in my suit, trying to get a rat-race lunch down my neck...............I'm feeling decidely envious.
'health to enjoy !!
Sitting here in my suit, trying to get a rat-race lunch down my neck...............I'm feeling decidely envious.
'health to enjoy !!
becsta
Guest
Fantastic photography the black and white one look the goods. What magnificent scenery. Hopefully one day I will be posting threads similar to this. Thanks for sharing your adventure with us poor soles sitting at home dreaming.
Ruta Diablo Day 3
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Cafayate was a simply gorgeous town, I loved it. It looks and feels the way all towns should; a lovely square surrounded by restaurants, friendly people and a really relaxed atmosphere. I met a couple from Ireland there and we shared a beer and a chat, it was great to have a yap with someone from home after all this time.
I left Cafayate later than normal this morning, I’d a bit of hangover after knocking back the guts of a bottle of wine last night. This area of Argentina is famous for its white wine, and believe it or not the Ozone layer, or rather the lack of it in this region is the reason for the special taste off the wine. So there you go, the hangover had nothing to do with the amount of alcohol consumed and everything to do with Ozone layer, best excuse I’ve ever had for a hangover. (Can you imagine it back home in Ireland on a Sunday morning as people are popping some paracetamol "Oh that ozone is a bastard!")
I eventually go underway knowing that If I survived today I’d have about a 1000km gravel free from tomorrow so I knuckled down and tore off. The first fifty miles were on asphalt and my first km marker pole said 4,333km, it was the first time I’d seen one on the Ruta 40 and it was also the first time I realized that Km 1 was in Rio Gallegos, down at terra del fuego and not in La Quiaca on the Bolivian border….not that it makes much of a difference.
The dirt road was completely different today than the other days, I thought it looked like I was in Africa, or at least when I’ve seen documentaries of some of the roads in Africa; I thought they looked similar. It was hard going at times but in the 300 mile today journey luckily only 100 miles or so was gravel and sand. About fifty miles into the shitty part of the road I was finding it tough going, it seemed like each km marker pole was taunting me with “4331 km on the wall, if one km should accidently fall, there’ll be 4330km on the wall….” Anyway you get the picture.
I pulled over to have a slug of water when a girl comes over the hill driving a moped scuttling along without a problem in the world. If ever there’s a red rag to a bull for a guy, it’s to show him a girl doing what he was doing, except doing it far handier.
Fuck that for a game of soldiers I said to myself, I jumped in the bike and gave the next fifty miles a serious pasting going at least 50% faster than I’d been going up to this point. I even managed to knock out a river crossing...
The road then started to straighten and for over a hundred miles it was blue skies, white puffy clouds, mountains on either side of the road; a great day to be riding a bike. The sky and clouds reminded me of the Argentinean football jersey and I’m wondering if it’s where they got the idea from.
This road is amazing mainly for the variety that you get in every day. It traverses mountains, deserts, small villages, rivers, pampas, vinyards' just looking through the pictures I took I can't get over the variety of things which I'm seeing every day.
I made it to a town called Chiloceto, just shy of 300miles from Cafayate. Tomorrow I need to do a massive miles day. This is now the section of the Ruta 40 which is asphalt, where my head is at is “Go like the clappers on the good sections of road, that’ll give you time to go slower on the shittier bits”
I hope to get south of Mendoza by tomorrow night, to a town of Malargue, which will mean the single biggest miles day of the entire trip, easier said than done, but I need to break the back of this puppy tomorrow.
I went out for a steak later on and the good looking women switch has been turned on again for the first time since Colombia, I have to ask..is there anything more attractive than a fine looking woman riding a motorcycle... "Hey darlin!..you wanna sit on my face instead of that saddle yer welcome!"
There's lots of guys riding bikes around with their birds on the back. I remember when I was growing up in Clondalkin, if you'd a bike you'd a fine looking bird... 100% match.... but instead of a girl on the back of my bike I’ve got an ortleib dry bag....although it is rather fetching.
Over and out
The big fella
<table><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyF7-2hSRHI/AAAAAAABiRc/C6t8GscLNgY/s640/IMG_0840.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyF_LRHWP5I/AAAAAAABiUM/WJWy3R22eAw/s640/IMG_0856.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyF_xZ0KkXI/AAAAAAABiUg/RndHOj-_hRA/s640/IMG_0858.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyGAELcDRTI/AAAAAAABiU4/dedn0Pc693c/s640/IMG_0860.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyGBU0bqgLI/AAAAAAABiV8/hjawh7WVhbA/s640/IMG_0866.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyGB3KHID5I/AAAAAAABiWc/IBsk21QibM4/s640/IMG_0870.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyGCVXRHf4I/AAAAAAABiXM/ae2vfEnRkDQ/s640/IMG_0874.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyGChie62gI/AAAAAAABiXc/QRiHWlba3co/s640/IMG_0876.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyGCzx6TRhI/AAAAAAABiXs/UE3CAvpkLhA/s640/IMG_0878.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyGDBOWoZTI/AAAAAAABiX8/Deg27-lCuB4/s640/IMG_0880.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyGFMbXim-I/AAAAAAABiaI/Tr4SBLit8t8/s640/IMG_0892.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyGdPCKQ8aI/AAAAAAABicc/-wMhYfZqqkw/s640/IMG_0983.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyGbPuAf5zI/AAAAAAABibs/F4Mj9zPcdBU/s640/IMG_1023.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyGbROgDJVI/AAAAAAABib0/_wMtjWA2fGA/s640/IMG_1069.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyGdE1djsBI/AAAAAAABicU/9n4gVSmAbp0/s640/IMG_1017.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyGdg-LcQjI/AAAAAAABick/y57lcfA62RM/s640/IMG_1011.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyGd6TRPhlI/AAAAAAABics/P43BwPz8JqE/s640/IMG_1001.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyGesCibemI/AAAAAAABidM/XZkS-5OyyHc/s640/IMG_1055.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyGf02EvxvI/AAAAAAABids/uIYvM7rYhSQ/s640/IMG_1002.JPG"></tr></td></table>
Cafayate was a simply gorgeous town, I loved it. It looks and feels the way all towns should; a lovely square surrounded by restaurants, friendly people and a really relaxed atmosphere. I met a couple from Ireland there and we shared a beer and a chat, it was great to have a yap with someone from home after all this time.
I left Cafayate later than normal this morning, I’d a bit of hangover after knocking back the guts of a bottle of wine last night. This area of Argentina is famous for its white wine, and believe it or not the Ozone layer, or rather the lack of it in this region is the reason for the special taste off the wine. So there you go, the hangover had nothing to do with the amount of alcohol consumed and everything to do with Ozone layer, best excuse I’ve ever had for a hangover. (Can you imagine it back home in Ireland on a Sunday morning as people are popping some paracetamol "Oh that ozone is a bastard!")
I eventually go underway knowing that If I survived today I’d have about a 1000km gravel free from tomorrow so I knuckled down and tore off. The first fifty miles were on asphalt and my first km marker pole said 4,333km, it was the first time I’d seen one on the Ruta 40 and it was also the first time I realized that Km 1 was in Rio Gallegos, down at terra del fuego and not in La Quiaca on the Bolivian border….not that it makes much of a difference.
The dirt road was completely different today than the other days, I thought it looked like I was in Africa, or at least when I’ve seen documentaries of some of the roads in Africa; I thought they looked similar. It was hard going at times but in the 300 mile today journey luckily only 100 miles or so was gravel and sand. About fifty miles into the shitty part of the road I was finding it tough going, it seemed like each km marker pole was taunting me with “4331 km on the wall, if one km should accidently fall, there’ll be 4330km on the wall….” Anyway you get the picture.
I pulled over to have a slug of water when a girl comes over the hill driving a moped scuttling along without a problem in the world. If ever there’s a red rag to a bull for a guy, it’s to show him a girl doing what he was doing, except doing it far handier.
Fuck that for a game of soldiers I said to myself, I jumped in the bike and gave the next fifty miles a serious pasting going at least 50% faster than I’d been going up to this point. I even managed to knock out a river crossing...
The road then started to straighten and for over a hundred miles it was blue skies, white puffy clouds, mountains on either side of the road; a great day to be riding a bike. The sky and clouds reminded me of the Argentinean football jersey and I’m wondering if it’s where they got the idea from.
This road is amazing mainly for the variety that you get in every day. It traverses mountains, deserts, small villages, rivers, pampas, vinyards' just looking through the pictures I took I can't get over the variety of things which I'm seeing every day.
I made it to a town called Chiloceto, just shy of 300miles from Cafayate. Tomorrow I need to do a massive miles day. This is now the section of the Ruta 40 which is asphalt, where my head is at is “Go like the clappers on the good sections of road, that’ll give you time to go slower on the shittier bits”
I hope to get south of Mendoza by tomorrow night, to a town of Malargue, which will mean the single biggest miles day of the entire trip, easier said than done, but I need to break the back of this puppy tomorrow.
I went out for a steak later on and the good looking women switch has been turned on again for the first time since Colombia, I have to ask..is there anything more attractive than a fine looking woman riding a motorcycle... "Hey darlin!..you wanna sit on my face instead of that saddle yer welcome!
"There's lots of guys riding bikes around with their birds on the back. I remember when I was growing up in Clondalkin, if you'd a bike you'd a fine looking bird... 100% match.... but instead of a girl on the back of my bike I’ve got an ortleib dry bag....although it is rather fetching.
Over and out
The big fella
Irishdude
Registered user
Man this has been a great read till now Keep up the good work, the foto's are great, I'm jelous .
Storm on the 40
<table><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyGqPezyx3I/AAAAAAABikk/WwvZRwafJ1c/s640/IMG_1340.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyIzUahltWI/AAAAAAABin4/qPSFBpaLmhE/s640/IMG_1355.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyI0RsEKf1I/AAAAAAABioU/OUptwGSMf6Y/s640/IMG_1357.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyI0yJd5tqI/AAAAAAABiog/XX9C23LIFd4/s640/IMG_1354.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyI15KCo14I/AAAAAAABipc/r5wHqWaYEv0/s640/IMG_1348.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyI1-aFgXOI/AAAAAAABipw/W5MtEnIooYg/s640/IMG_1535.JPG"></tr></td></table>
Today just north of Mendoza I rode through the worst storm I've ever encountered. I could see it coming along way off so I had all the rain gear on over the Enduro suit. As I rode into it marble size hailstones started lashing the shit out of me ad the bike and this morning I've about fifteen micro bruises from where the hailstones were hitting my arms, even through the enduro suit and rain gear.
I pulled off the road under a tree, (If it had been anywhere else on the 40 there would have been no trees to shelter under so I'd have been rightly screwed). A car and a truck had pulled under the same tree and were pulling wood panels out of the truck to protect the car from impact of the hailstones. The tree as a result of the impact of all these massive hailstones started to shed leaves and small branches down on top of us and the road turned completely white with the accumulation of hailstones.
The pictures only give a flavor of how bad it was as the camera and myself were getting soaked and battered.
This was the most "biblical" storm I've ever been in. Normally when something like this is happening I love it, "More thunder, More lightning, More hailstones", but for the first time in my life in a storm I was shitting bricks.
Eventually it passed and I rode out of it.... if one of these hits while I'm out in the more remoter parts of the 40 where there is no cover, I am screwed.
Its not all fun and games!
Over and out
Oisin
<table><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyGqPezyx3I/AAAAAAABikk/WwvZRwafJ1c/s640/IMG_1340.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyIzUahltWI/AAAAAAABin4/qPSFBpaLmhE/s640/IMG_1355.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyI0RsEKf1I/AAAAAAABioU/OUptwGSMf6Y/s640/IMG_1357.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyI0yJd5tqI/AAAAAAABiog/XX9C23LIFd4/s640/IMG_1354.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyI15KCo14I/AAAAAAABipc/r5wHqWaYEv0/s640/IMG_1348.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyI1-aFgXOI/AAAAAAABipw/W5MtEnIooYg/s640/IMG_1535.JPG"></tr></td></table>
Today just north of Mendoza I rode through the worst storm I've ever encountered. I could see it coming along way off so I had all the rain gear on over the Enduro suit. As I rode into it marble size hailstones started lashing the shit out of me ad the bike and this morning I've about fifteen micro bruises from where the hailstones were hitting my arms, even through the enduro suit and rain gear.
I pulled off the road under a tree, (If it had been anywhere else on the 40 there would have been no trees to shelter under so I'd have been rightly screwed). A car and a truck had pulled under the same tree and were pulling wood panels out of the truck to protect the car from impact of the hailstones. The tree as a result of the impact of all these massive hailstones started to shed leaves and small branches down on top of us and the road turned completely white with the accumulation of hailstones.
The pictures only give a flavor of how bad it was as the camera and myself were getting soaked and battered.
This was the most "biblical" storm I've ever been in. Normally when something like this is happening I love it, "More thunder, More lightning, More hailstones", but for the first time in my life in a storm I was shitting bricks.
Eventually it passed and I rode out of it.... if one of these hits while I'm out in the more remoter parts of the 40 where there is no cover, I am screwed.
Its not all fun and games!
Over and out
Oisin
Ruta 40 day 4, what a change
<table><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLcPBps6qI/AAAAAAABjSg/Y8JrhYBwyC0/s640/IMG_1119.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLcWdhYbmI/AAAAAAABjTA/Qb2OwPWat6U/s640/IMG_1123.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLcvyXBohI/AAAAAAABjUQ/VHIWAYxdvMM/s640/IMG_1133.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLc6V-7QEI/AAAAAAABjUo/snOjrdJf288/s640/IMG_1136.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLdR_dA5_I/AAAAAAABjVs/V8KG-GsaEJ0/s640/IMG_1144.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLduK-SR8I/AAAAAAABjWo/znLgu5iCpdg/s640/IMG_1151.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLeKPG7piI/AAAAAAABjXw/eR4GSZxYPO4/s640/IMG_1160.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLeMrqyLWI/AAAAAAABjX8/-yGrzH5IMO0/s640/IMG_1161.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLeoyFCELI/AAAAAAABjZQ/7LwEuSXcq24/s640/IMG_1170.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLe0dtcUDI/AAAAAAABjZ4/6mrHtTYTJcc/s640/IMG_1175.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLfD1NcCgI/AAAAAAABja4/_CkJ9RrEyPk/s640/IMG_1183.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLfcJ7mtmI/AAAAAAABjcQ/WGewJjG9rBY/s640/IMG_1193.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLgHhjB9xI/AAAAAAABjeo/8RPCNaj5wL0/s640/IMG_1212.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLgYHIQ1JI/AAAAAAABjfk/-FqIyNjTdPI/s640/IMG_1219.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLhu4vbNqI/AAAAAAABjlA/YbLuRyPmf6s/s640/IMG_1261.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLiLjbfKcI/AAAAAAABjmY/ZKJRLIkq-Es/s640/IMG_1272.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLiVUcf85I/AAAAAAABjmw/OgW3ba16fnE/s640/IMG_1275.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLi6aINFVI/AAAAAAABjoc/8wEpGXLsJL0/s640/IMG_1287.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLjE_eVraI/AAAAAAABjpE/pP3EiKWyT6M/s640/IMG_1292.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLjaTatfpI/AAAAAAABjqU/sk94GMLyEzA/s640/IMG_1302.JPG"></tr></td></table>
The Ruta 40 transformed itself into something like Sedona in the USA today as it twisted its way through yet another mountain pass on my way South. I'm developing a love hate relationship with the road.... actually its more of a hate hate.
What it will do is even though on the map its a yellow line indicating asphalt it'll throw you 50km of gravel just to keep you awake. At this stage I dont mind gravel but when your mind has itself set on asphalt and a nice handy morning to be bending around cliffs on gravel just adds a couple of more grey hairs. Its like the road is talking to me... ok you got through that bit fat boy...but I'll catch you south of Mendoza (Ended up in an ambulance, post more on that later)
The signposting is shocking in the remote areas, some of the signs have been bleached beyond legible by the sun, sometimes you come to a Y in the road with no clue which track to follow, and most times you keep asking yourself... "This couldn't be the fucking way could it?"
Having said that, in recent KM its been about 60/40 asphalt, gravel so happy days!
Four days in and the routine is as follows, get up early, go, do 200km, stop for gas and water and something to eat... do another 200km.... get some more water.... do the last 100km....(doing about 500km a day), then as the gear I'm wearing is just stinking I get into a shower with my cacks, socks, and tshirt on, wash em...hang em up....nose bag.......bed. On average I'm on the road for ten to twelve hours a day and when I hit the bed i'm asleep before my head hits the pillow.
I met an English couple from London, Dean and Denise, pure cockney. They were over here on their honeymoon and were heading on a tour of Argentina's wine region. Denise was fairly worldly and was anxious to see as much of the world before having kids and Dean, a devoted hammers fan didn't know "What the fuck he'd been dragged down ere for!" This guy talked exactly like Turkish from the film Snatch.
We'd a good chat and I told them what I was up to, and that I was driving the entire 40. Dean's buddy had done the Panamerican motorcycle trip the year previous and had heard all about the 40 from him.
"You doin fuckin all of it?" said Dean,
I am I replied.
"Well your one ardcore **** inya!" was his response.
Easily the best compliment I've ever received. I've said it before but there is no greater compliment for a guy than for someone to use the word "hardcore" in a sentence with their name in it.
These are days of High Adventure!
over and out
Conan
<table><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLcPBps6qI/AAAAAAABjSg/Y8JrhYBwyC0/s640/IMG_1119.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLcWdhYbmI/AAAAAAABjTA/Qb2OwPWat6U/s640/IMG_1123.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLcvyXBohI/AAAAAAABjUQ/VHIWAYxdvMM/s640/IMG_1133.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLc6V-7QEI/AAAAAAABjUo/snOjrdJf288/s640/IMG_1136.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLdR_dA5_I/AAAAAAABjVs/V8KG-GsaEJ0/s640/IMG_1144.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLduK-SR8I/AAAAAAABjWo/znLgu5iCpdg/s640/IMG_1151.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLeKPG7piI/AAAAAAABjXw/eR4GSZxYPO4/s640/IMG_1160.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLeMrqyLWI/AAAAAAABjX8/-yGrzH5IMO0/s640/IMG_1161.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLeoyFCELI/AAAAAAABjZQ/7LwEuSXcq24/s640/IMG_1170.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLe0dtcUDI/AAAAAAABjZ4/6mrHtTYTJcc/s640/IMG_1175.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLfD1NcCgI/AAAAAAABja4/_CkJ9RrEyPk/s640/IMG_1183.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLfcJ7mtmI/AAAAAAABjcQ/WGewJjG9rBY/s640/IMG_1193.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLgHhjB9xI/AAAAAAABjeo/8RPCNaj5wL0/s640/IMG_1212.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLgYHIQ1JI/AAAAAAABjfk/-FqIyNjTdPI/s640/IMG_1219.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLhu4vbNqI/AAAAAAABjlA/YbLuRyPmf6s/s640/IMG_1261.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLiLjbfKcI/AAAAAAABjmY/ZKJRLIkq-Es/s640/IMG_1272.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLiVUcf85I/AAAAAAABjmw/OgW3ba16fnE/s640/IMG_1275.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLi6aINFVI/AAAAAAABjoc/8wEpGXLsJL0/s640/IMG_1287.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLjE_eVraI/AAAAAAABjpE/pP3EiKWyT6M/s640/IMG_1292.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLjaTatfpI/AAAAAAABjqU/sk94GMLyEzA/s640/IMG_1302.JPG"></tr></td></table>
The Ruta 40 transformed itself into something like Sedona in the USA today as it twisted its way through yet another mountain pass on my way South. I'm developing a love hate relationship with the road.... actually its more of a hate hate.
What it will do is even though on the map its a yellow line indicating asphalt it'll throw you 50km of gravel just to keep you awake. At this stage I dont mind gravel but when your mind has itself set on asphalt and a nice handy morning to be bending around cliffs on gravel just adds a couple of more grey hairs. Its like the road is talking to me... ok you got through that bit fat boy...but I'll catch you south of Mendoza (Ended up in an ambulance, post more on that later)
The signposting is shocking in the remote areas, some of the signs have been bleached beyond legible by the sun, sometimes you come to a Y in the road with no clue which track to follow, and most times you keep asking yourself... "This couldn't be the fucking way could it?"
Having said that, in recent KM its been about 60/40 asphalt, gravel so happy days!
Four days in and the routine is as follows, get up early, go, do 200km, stop for gas and water and something to eat... do another 200km.... get some more water.... do the last 100km....(doing about 500km a day), then as the gear I'm wearing is just stinking I get into a shower with my cacks, socks, and tshirt on, wash em...hang em up....nose bag.......bed. On average I'm on the road for ten to twelve hours a day and when I hit the bed i'm asleep before my head hits the pillow.
I met an English couple from London, Dean and Denise, pure cockney. They were over here on their honeymoon and were heading on a tour of Argentina's wine region. Denise was fairly worldly and was anxious to see as much of the world before having kids and Dean, a devoted hammers fan didn't know "What the fuck he'd been dragged down ere for!" This guy talked exactly like Turkish from the film Snatch.
We'd a good chat and I told them what I was up to, and that I was driving the entire 40. Dean's buddy had done the Panamerican motorcycle trip the year previous and had heard all about the 40 from him.
"You doin fuckin all of it?" said Dean,
I am I replied.
"Well your one ardcore **** inya!" was his response.
Easily the best compliment I've ever received. I've said it before but there is no greater compliment for a guy than for someone to use the word "hardcore" in a sentence with their name in it.
These are days of High Adventure!
over and out
Conan
Nee Naw Nee Naw Nee Naw
<table><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLmfTLvcII/AAAAAAABj2s/1zuZoWGRvnE/s640/IMG_1390.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLmtE77jLI/AAAAAAABj4E/uMAylJ99SHs/s640/IMG_1398.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLnr2DhAPI/AAAAAAABlCI/-rOEuLGyNh4/s640/IMG_1428.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLnzP5HLPI/AAAAAAABj8o/FjSdFxjlfwI/s640/IMG_1434.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLn-zePTPI/AAAAAAABj9g/mn2eUDj1L5k/s640/IMG_1441.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLojgB1sPI/AAAAAAABj_4/CqRJHplJywE/s640/IMG_1457.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLpYjIufII/AAAAAAABkCg/7NBnma898gE/s640/IMG_1478.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLp3-kZo1I/AAAAAAABlC4/atrwOcKO41s/s640/IMG_1492.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLp_maS4EI/AAAAAAABlDQ/RWzv6B-fhI8/s640/IMG_1496.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLqBBiO35I/AAAAAAABlDc/e8mD4y1Grv8/s640/IMG_1497.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLqq5hKjpI/AAAAAAABlD0/VZ9AVaXklHA/s640/IMG_1517.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLqxZGbA5I/AAAAAAABkIA/OFP_vd9QnJs/s640/IMG_1521.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLq3YzG8sI/AAAAAAABkIQ/niKK4wh1RMc/s640/IMG_1523.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLrFWltTTI/AAAAAAABkIw/htikDwDa1ks/s640/IMG_1527.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyN7c8O7KII/AAAAAAABk_8/kQhnBZ7DVEw/s640/IMG_1946.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyN7hTIyxaI/AAAAAAABlAE/MnA7XQw8W-E/s640/IMG_1947.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyL6casCTiI/AAAAAAABk1E/nI3Q7rkaX9U/s640/IMG_1864.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyL4hKXQ18I/AAAAAAABku0/fiUilW5uL3o/s640/IMG_1818.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLztLHwFQI/AAAAAAABkfk/na2EtSzjBac/s640/IMG_1699.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLzCLMhMFI/AAAAAAABkds/DTRtLedezgo/s640/IMG_1687.JPG"></tr></td></table>
South of Mendoza you cut off back onto about a 100km of gravel as you make your way south to a town called Malarque. The last two days I’ve been riding through storms and some have been absolutely terrifying.
I was driving on a wide open plane under a completely black sky at only 3pm in the afternoon.
Knowing that I normally didn’t get dark till almost 9pm was scant consolation for the fact that I could barely see. The rain was teeming down and I really struggled to see my line through the gravel and sand through my visor.
I was cursing the road, the wind, the rain on my visor, anything that was hindering my progress.
A moment came when things went absolutely quiet, there was flare of pink lightning just ahead of me and for a few moments I wasn’t having any problems. There was just the noise of the engine, the rain had stopped and the wind had eased. I was on a perfect line and there was almost no vibration coming up from the road to shake me and the bike.
I passed a herd of wild horses on my left who were lit by a sliver of yellow sunshine peeking out from the storm clouds away on my right. When they saw and heard the bike they started to gallop alongside me. The feeling of riding alongside wild animals at full gallop under a completely black sky on a flat open plain with just the faintest yellow light illuminating our way felt like I was riding in a dream.
The world seemed to slow down as I realized I had drifted from my line into a track of heavy gravel and the front wheel was starting to sway left and right. I tried to stay loose and correct it but every time I’d correct it I’d be pulled back into the track until at which point the bike fell over and we slid up the road together on the gravel. Even thought the incident took only a couple of seconds as I remember it now it seemed to take a really long time to unfold.
I’m not sure how long I lay there but next thing I knew a guy and a girl were pulling the bike up and putting me into the recovery position. I was lying there not in pain or anything like that but I just knew I really didn’t want to get up or start moving, it’s hard to explain.
You know the crazy thing is that the whole time the song “Fix you” by coldplay was going through my head….. “Lights will guide you home”
The next thing I knew I was in an ambulance lying down on one of the beds about to head off to hospital in Malarque. Then the thought just came to me... ok.. time to get up.... and I just got up with the guys in the ambulance pushing me back down..... all of a sudden I felt fine....and I was just concerned about leaving the bike out on the 40 by itself.
There was a big cafuffle but after about twenty minutes with the lads taking my blood pressure and doing the whole shine the light in your eyes routine they left me. I looked all round the bike and bar some scratching on the pannier and the fact that my left fog light was broken off and the lights didnt work but other than that there was little enough damage. Then it was time to say goodbye to the couple who stopped for me.
When everyone had left I turned around and there was a horse standing just in front of a Volcano.
I continued into Malarque where I booked myself into a hotel where I had a shower and went to bed. This morninng I woke up and my left knee, hip, and neck all feel like shit but fuck it, I'll survive.
Lesson.... never drive when you cant see your line on a gravel road.
Over and out
Oisin
<table><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLmfTLvcII/AAAAAAABj2s/1zuZoWGRvnE/s640/IMG_1390.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLmtE77jLI/AAAAAAABj4E/uMAylJ99SHs/s640/IMG_1398.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLnr2DhAPI/AAAAAAABlCI/-rOEuLGyNh4/s640/IMG_1428.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLnzP5HLPI/AAAAAAABj8o/FjSdFxjlfwI/s640/IMG_1434.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLn-zePTPI/AAAAAAABj9g/mn2eUDj1L5k/s640/IMG_1441.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLojgB1sPI/AAAAAAABj_4/CqRJHplJywE/s640/IMG_1457.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLpYjIufII/AAAAAAABkCg/7NBnma898gE/s640/IMG_1478.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLp3-kZo1I/AAAAAAABlC4/atrwOcKO41s/s640/IMG_1492.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLp_maS4EI/AAAAAAABlDQ/RWzv6B-fhI8/s640/IMG_1496.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLqBBiO35I/AAAAAAABlDc/e8mD4y1Grv8/s640/IMG_1497.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLqq5hKjpI/AAAAAAABlD0/VZ9AVaXklHA/s640/IMG_1517.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLqxZGbA5I/AAAAAAABkIA/OFP_vd9QnJs/s640/IMG_1521.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLq3YzG8sI/AAAAAAABkIQ/niKK4wh1RMc/s640/IMG_1523.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLrFWltTTI/AAAAAAABkIw/htikDwDa1ks/s640/IMG_1527.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyN7c8O7KII/AAAAAAABk_8/kQhnBZ7DVEw/s640/IMG_1946.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyN7hTIyxaI/AAAAAAABlAE/MnA7XQw8W-E/s640/IMG_1947.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyL6casCTiI/AAAAAAABk1E/nI3Q7rkaX9U/s640/IMG_1864.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyL4hKXQ18I/AAAAAAABku0/fiUilW5uL3o/s640/IMG_1818.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLztLHwFQI/AAAAAAABkfk/na2EtSzjBac/s640/IMG_1699.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLzCLMhMFI/AAAAAAABkds/DTRtLedezgo/s640/IMG_1687.JPG"></tr></td></table>
South of Mendoza you cut off back onto about a 100km of gravel as you make your way south to a town called Malarque. The last two days I’ve been riding through storms and some have been absolutely terrifying.
I was driving on a wide open plane under a completely black sky at only 3pm in the afternoon.
Knowing that I normally didn’t get dark till almost 9pm was scant consolation for the fact that I could barely see. The rain was teeming down and I really struggled to see my line through the gravel and sand through my visor.
I was cursing the road, the wind, the rain on my visor, anything that was hindering my progress.
A moment came when things went absolutely quiet, there was flare of pink lightning just ahead of me and for a few moments I wasn’t having any problems. There was just the noise of the engine, the rain had stopped and the wind had eased. I was on a perfect line and there was almost no vibration coming up from the road to shake me and the bike.
I passed a herd of wild horses on my left who were lit by a sliver of yellow sunshine peeking out from the storm clouds away on my right. When they saw and heard the bike they started to gallop alongside me. The feeling of riding alongside wild animals at full gallop under a completely black sky on a flat open plain with just the faintest yellow light illuminating our way felt like I was riding in a dream.
The world seemed to slow down as I realized I had drifted from my line into a track of heavy gravel and the front wheel was starting to sway left and right. I tried to stay loose and correct it but every time I’d correct it I’d be pulled back into the track until at which point the bike fell over and we slid up the road together on the gravel. Even thought the incident took only a couple of seconds as I remember it now it seemed to take a really long time to unfold.
I’m not sure how long I lay there but next thing I knew a guy and a girl were pulling the bike up and putting me into the recovery position. I was lying there not in pain or anything like that but I just knew I really didn’t want to get up or start moving, it’s hard to explain.
You know the crazy thing is that the whole time the song “Fix you” by coldplay was going through my head….. “Lights will guide you home”
The next thing I knew I was in an ambulance lying down on one of the beds about to head off to hospital in Malarque. Then the thought just came to me... ok.. time to get up.... and I just got up with the guys in the ambulance pushing me back down..... all of a sudden I felt fine....and I was just concerned about leaving the bike out on the 40 by itself.
There was a big cafuffle but after about twenty minutes with the lads taking my blood pressure and doing the whole shine the light in your eyes routine they left me. I looked all round the bike and bar some scratching on the pannier and the fact that my left fog light was broken off and the lights didnt work but other than that there was little enough damage. Then it was time to say goodbye to the couple who stopped for me.
When everyone had left I turned around and there was a horse standing just in front of a Volcano.
I continued into Malarque where I booked myself into a hotel where I had a shower and went to bed. This morninng I woke up and my left knee, hip, and neck all feel like shit but fuck it, I'll survive.
Lesson.... never drive when you cant see your line on a gravel road.
Over and out
Oisin
Stewart H
Registered user
Some of that sounds surreal, glad you are okay 
Stewart
Stewart
takahe
Registered user
Oisin Ihave just spent the last few hours reading your meanderings and looking at the superb photo story. I have to agree with your Hammers man you are 'ardcore mate. A hell of a rider, philosopher, photographer,and a cracking turn of phrase.
For my part 30+ years ago I travelled round Mexico Central and South America as a pampered sale rep. flash air conditioned cars and little appreciation of what I was seeing.
Looking at your photos has taken me back with appreciation of what I saw.
Work was so demanding could only focus on sell sell selll. Camera photos nada.
Thank you very much for you wonderful though often terrifying journey.
Keep safe, I'll be on here again tomorrow, with you in spirit.
Paul.
For my part 30+ years ago I travelled round Mexico Central and South America as a pampered sale rep. flash air conditioned cars and little appreciation of what I was seeing.
Looking at your photos has taken me back with appreciation of what I saw.
Work was so demanding could only focus on sell sell selll. Camera photos nada.
Thank you very much for you wonderful though often terrifying journey.
Keep safe, I'll be on here again tomorrow, with you in spirit.
Paul.
Past the Halfway Mark
<table><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLtL7vxq2I/AAAAAAABkPM/N6z9gbSWxbw/s640/IMG_1576.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLuC4lckMI/AAAAAAABkQ0/PlCPvcYS8Zo/s640/IMG_1589.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLuo1ll7ZI/AAAAAAABkRk/kB9uwRX40MY/s640/IMG_1595.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLvWCpvPYI/AAAAAAABkTU/kSvZ_TlNrNE/s640/IMG_1606.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLwm17voRI/AAAAAAABkWs/UDAiqdAnco0/s640/IMG_1631.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLwyH1bwkI/AAAAAAABkXQ/aURzS8LKYik/s640/IMG_1635.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLxS8qVl1I/AAAAAAABkYc/en9kxTI0IHQ/s640/IMG_1644.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLxADrl_-I/AAAAAAABkX0/ff8-2heJ9ow/s640/IMG_1639.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLxp57jyGI/AAAAAAABkZc/TxrMIqgilNY/s640/IMG_1652.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyLz9J0mVMI/AAAAAAABkgk/ghJ1PMag-Ig/s640/IMG_1706.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyL0zgS3UtI/AAAAAAABkjc/d9jlvd8N6yU/s640/IMG_1726.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyL1vNGbavI/AAAAAAABkms/xG5H4kafvWA/s640/IMG_1751.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyL2dxCQnTI/AAAAAAABko0/Hd7iDbC_m60/s640/IMG_1770.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyL2kNhl6LI/AAAAAAABkpE/dt51zM0QVrk/s640/IMG_1772.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyL2vltMV7I/AAAAAAABkpk/wR4wwRLjtAs/s640/IMG_1781.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyL3Qj5qXGI/AAAAAAABkr0/PqnxApykHEI/s640/IMG_1796.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyL49U38OMI/AAAAAAABkwE/uPkcixbsmzE/s640/IMG_1827.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyL6casCTiI/AAAAAAABk1E/nI3Q7rkaX9U/s640/IMG_1864.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyN4pVRgDzI/AAAAAAABk4w/n3uA6xikj5s/s640/IMG_1891.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyN4yDaGkkI/AAAAAAABk5E/6nnOisMG3OM/s640/IMG_1894.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyN4-FWmfOI/AAAAAAABk5c/ZPx_c2xUyXA/s640/IMG_1897.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyN7slIaHqI/AAAAAAABlAs/VMIdbvyoIwI/s640/IMG_1952.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyQRGtNs98I/AAAAAAABlpY/G3-RTXeRCdA/s640/IMG_1967.JPG"></tr></td></table>
Past the halfway point on the 40 today, even put a bit of Graffiti on the 2500 marker post, and before any Cardigan wearers drop their hankies, its in washable ink, first sup of rain and it'll be a distant memory.....pheewww.
In total I rode well over 500 miles and this is the part of the 40 which is mostly asphalt so I'm hauling ass, and I have to admit to feeling pretty good about hitting halfway on this puppy.
The pictures above should give you some idea that I'm really in the boonies at the moment, In over ten hours on the road I passed almost no one, this part of the world is so empty its spooky because its so beautiful. I cant imagine why no one has decided to move out this direction. I did'nt talk to anyone bar garage attendants so when I stopped it was just me and some birds hanging out looking at the scenery. The solitude is unnatural. It's like you went to heaven only to find your the only fucker there.
I saw lots of road runners today... they've the funniest run you've ever seen, its head down, arse up...and run like fuck...hilarious to watch.
Tomorrow I cross into what's officially Patagonia so the scenery will get even better...which is hard to believe based on what I've seen so far.
I'm starting to understand why this road is such a legend...and hopefully from looking at the pictures you are too.
Nothing really more to add, just my arse is raw and Argentina really is the most spectacular country to visit.
Take care...see you tomorrow.
Oisin
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Past the halfway point on the 40 today, even put a bit of Graffiti on the 2500 marker post, and before any Cardigan wearers drop their hankies, its in washable ink, first sup of rain and it'll be a distant memory.....pheewww.
In total I rode well over 500 miles and this is the part of the 40 which is mostly asphalt so I'm hauling ass, and I have to admit to feeling pretty good about hitting halfway on this puppy.
The pictures above should give you some idea that I'm really in the boonies at the moment, In over ten hours on the road I passed almost no one, this part of the world is so empty its spooky because its so beautiful. I cant imagine why no one has decided to move out this direction. I did'nt talk to anyone bar garage attendants so when I stopped it was just me and some birds hanging out looking at the scenery. The solitude is unnatural. It's like you went to heaven only to find your the only fucker there.
I saw lots of road runners today... they've the funniest run you've ever seen, its head down, arse up...and run like fuck...hilarious to watch.
Tomorrow I cross into what's officially Patagonia so the scenery will get even better...which is hard to believe based on what I've seen so far.
I'm starting to understand why this road is such a legend...and hopefully from looking at the pictures you are too.
Nothing really more to add, just my arse is raw and Argentina really is the most spectacular country to visit.
Take care...see you tomorrow.
Oisin
kirky1298
Registered user
Oisin , u da man !!!!! this ride report is by far the best i have had the pleasure of reading . ( you use your toungue prettier than a five dollar whore !!!! ) i just can't wait to read the book !!! be safe , god speed , and most importantly , enjoy bro !!! because i think i speak for most peolple on here when i say "you are living the dream " 
Go n-éirí do bóthar leat Oisin. 
vireo
Registered user
Oisin.
This RR is now my daily fix..............I'm disappointed when I check it to find there hasn't been an update since I last checked in (probably only an hour earlier...) only to be lifted again when we hear from you !
"Keep her lit "
V
This RR is now my daily fix..............I'm disappointed when I check it to find there hasn't been an update since I last checked in (probably only an hour earlier...) only to be lifted again when we hear from you !
"Keep her lit "
V
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