RTW 2009/2010

[Oisin]

The end of the easy stuff...

<table><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyQRXPmlXNI/AAAAAAABlp8/IWbljSyRxMc/s640/IMG_1975.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyQSEGl5sMI/AAAAAAABlP4/GAWspMSddL8/s640/IMG_1992.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyQSIXXjtpI/AAAAAAABlQI/S-KSvYpicDQ/s640/IMG_1994.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyQSMci8sDI/AAAAAAABlqg/pnDxKiV7l3A/s640/IMG_1996.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyQSX11KrKI/AAAAAAABlro/NhoN6LYR1LM/s640/IMG_2002.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyQSfVPNqCI/AAAAAAABlsY/gzS8xGLh1ho/s640/IMG_2006.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyQSqTGeaSI/AAAAAAABltk/MR_y_XSVd3I/s640/IMG_2011.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyQTGh7XnWI/AAAAAAABlUg/QUaKyoNuVus/s640/IMG_2026.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyQTMM_5qDI/AAAAAAABlU4/5DXuTQmcAv8/s640/IMG_2029.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyQTRdEHuiI/AAAAAAABlVI/2GYtleMb7CI/s640/IMG_2031.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyQTh9JNyTI/AAAAAAABlWQ/cL7BZovLFQ4/s640/IMG_2039.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyQTxHXpruI/AAAAAAABlXA/yuPG1IQmIag/s640/IMG_2045.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyQUXP7xacI/AAAAAAABlZg/XVCrXYSDMvo/s640/IMG_2064.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-HHXiI/SyQUcqHEOQI/AAAAAAABlZw/M5yxoVuYpIU/s640/IMG_2066.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyQVKhm9TZI/AAAAAAABldM/wXv2TDbQgZE/s640/IMG_2093.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyQVcFRlExI/AAAAAAABleo/1PupkI1o5RI/s640/IMG_2104.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyQVn3lxeQI/AAAAAAABlfY/7-wHrTPztU4/s640/IMG_2110.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyQVznFZVMI/AAAAAAABlgI/Esw7uoAg63o/s640/IMG_2116.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyQWB3X2akI/AAAAAAABlhE/e6Vpk7KFSpY/s640/IMG_2123.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyQWR7o_iJI/AAAAAAABliY/ihBuuAs9Yaw/s640/IMG_2133.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyQWgiKO8WI/AAAAAAABljo/MCakVJx-9DE/s640/IMG_2143.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyQW7wBrxZI/AAAAAAABllM/XLwr_md6rl0/s640/IMG_2155.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyQXjaLOSyI/AAAAAAABloo/-X4dG4QEI5Y/s640/IMG_2182.JPG"></tr></td></table>

Today was as easy as it comes, the roads were great, scenery was out of this world, and the whole countryside was in bloom, its spring here. It seemed no matter where I drove I could smell a mixture of honeydew and vanilla.

It was a little more than 300 miles from north of Bariloche to where I am now, Esquel. The towns of Bariloche, Bolson, and Esquel are very similar, all beautiful and all ringed by mountains.

So that marks the end of the easy stuff, and the end of being able to post for a couple of days.
From here I head south to Perito Moreno and then on to Calafate. This will be hard. Working out where to get gas, where i'll stay etc in what is the Argentinian boonies will be tough but the rough plan is follows in case anyone is looking for the body later:

Esquel to Perito Moreno...about 550km.... 50/50 Gravel/Aaphalt...via the town of Rio Mayo.
Tomorrow is the really tough one, Perito Moreno to El Calafate, a town which sounds like a Bad manners song if you ask me. From there I head south and eventually due east and hope to finish the Ruta 40 in 3 days in Rio Gallegos.

In total I've 1780km to go on the 40, to be followed by 2900km back north to Buenos aires....on the Ruta 3 when I ship the bike back to Ireland on the 21st of December to prep it for going to Siberia in April.

I went out for some gorgeous grub last night, I said to myself..."Battle and war begins tomorrow, time to spoil yourself"

I then headed back and watched some motivational stuff on You tube.... sample below..
See you when I get internet!
Oisin


<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/cz3gIi8sbG8&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/cz3gIi8sbG8&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/9hcuLVOF__I&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/9hcuLVOF__I&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/WO4tIrjBDkk&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/WO4tIrjBDkk&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

 

[takahe]

Thanks for more of your inspirational photography and ramblings. Read you again on Tuesday evening. Take care.
Paul.

 

[Micky]

Excellent reading and photo's Oisin... as said, a daily 'fix' for us back here.

Ride safe, rubber side down and between the hedges my friend

 

[jc_bromley]

Oisin, any chance of a brief rundown of your daily costs, fuel/oil consumption, accomodation food etc?
I'd also be keen to hear about what kit you use/wear and how it performs.
Ta!

JC

 

[Callard]

Oisin, any chance of a brief rundown of your daily costs, fuel/oil consumption, accomodation food etc?
I'd also be keen to hear about what kit you use/wear and how it performs.
Ta!

JC

Only on a BMW GS site would you get a post like the one above.

Oisin, I know you are soaking up the mind numbing range of emotions of being out there alone experiencing the world but have you had any problems with the final drive unit?

Seriously be safe my man and respect for the fantatic ride reports

 

[jc_bromley]

Only on a BMW GS site would you get a post like the one above.

Oisin, I know you are soaking up the mind numbing range of emotions of being out there alone experiencing the world but have you had any problems with the final drive unit?

Seriously be safe my man and respect for the fantatic ride reports

You should try www.horizonsunlimited.com some time....

 

[Callard]

You should try www.horizonsunlimited.com some time....

Just did......UKGSer on steroids

 

[finn]

Excellent reading and photo's Oisin... as said, a daily 'fix' for us back here.

Ride safe, rubber side down and between the hedges my friend

+1 great read for us stuck here!

 

[Oisin]

The bastard 40

<table><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyVoYsxQlTI/AAAAAAABnHM/pjc5TSLN4Xs/s640/IMG_2256.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyVp_ysH_yI/AAAAAAABnOc/EPRYEzNWgEA/s640/IMG_2312.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyVq_mlBrRI/AAAAAAABnSo/4PAQV36PP64/s640/IMG_2346.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyVrBM9ReqI/AAAAAAABnS0/mD-69e0_Iks/s640/IMG_2347.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyVrng8B5QI/AAAAAAABnWE/vf97bZp38-M/s640/IMG_2373.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyVr5LRTmFI/AAAAAAABnXo/tX_zGK6u71Q/s640/IMG_2385.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyVr9igjawI/AAAAAAABnYA/Ioko_gadEU8/s640/IMG_2388.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyVsm_B7xHI/AAAAAAABnbo/yEODqry-ars/s640/IMG_2416.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyVsz_B_QLI/AAAAAAABncs/m-Lj028nURM/s640/IMG_2424.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyVs4jdaPTI/AAAAAAABndQ/qFEuGQgUrR8/s640/IMG_2428.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyVtTOqHQgI/AAAAAAABnfg/sLOZxBQLBGw/s640/IMG_2446.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyVtky_CagI/AAAAAAABngU/12EP42Efvxs/s640/IMG_2451.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyVtvl4hVmI/AAAAAAABng8/H4Wwd0UOrvc/s640/IMG_2456.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyVtxyxiWwI/AAAAAAABnhM/GHtA8YvPOa4/s640/IMG_2458.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyVuD6mzGzI/AAAAAAABnhs/f2qHn5_REwM/s640/IMG_2462.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyVuE_yQy7I/AAAAAAABnh0/OaO-Faham9s/s640/IMG_2463.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyVuR5kUOGI/AAAAAAABnik/n8tcTE7X_Ms/s640/IMG_2469.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyVuUptD0hI/AAAAAAABni8/4ULAKuX9qtA/s640/IMG_2472.JPG"></tr></td></table>

I made it Perito Morena...all told did 500km on pure gravel..and another 50km on asphalt, so I feel like I've been ten rounds with a porn star.... fucked!

The wind howled, the rain pissed, muck, absolutely brutal hard going.

For a good hour I was just doing a chorus of "Fuck of wind, fuck off wind, Fuck off wind" as it did it best to let me know how it feels to be pulled around under Hulk Hogans armpit.

There's not much in the way of scenery in this part of the world, just flat planes where you can see for miles all round you. The only thing of note all day was a bunch of Emu's running across the road...other than that it was just ride through the elements.

There was no one on the road all day, not overly surprising when you look at it. There's a different way to get to all of the major towns and tourist sites so its only the benny biker brigade who bother with the stretch of Satans alimentary canal.

Why bother? well its style points. If in Ireland and the UK you meet another biker..and you tell them you rode all of the 40...they are honor bound to let you have prima nocte with either their missus or daughter. They'll say... "This is my wife... please pleasure yourself with her!"...and it'll be followed with the sound of brushing of teeth and spraying of perfume....at least that's what I was told!


Summary....its hard going...but I'm getting through it... two more hard days in the saddle should see me get to Rio Gallegos where they'll have the parade and I'll start working my way through the 40 virgins.... they've been watching bon jovi videos to warm up.

Take Care...
Calafate tomorrow... a bastard of a ride if half the tales be true...

Over and out
The dehymenizer

 

[Oisin]

No thanks Niamh, Rio Gallegos tomorrow

<table><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/Sya4bEfYBrI/AAAAAAABojQ/1_DTfMvcoFI/s640/IMG_2493.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/Sya7aV08TyI/AAAAAAABomM/vKnWDReYNqI/s640/IMG_2561.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/Sya7jau56hI/AAAAAAABnw4/2Bv2p_JyWgo/s640/IMG_2565.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/Sya7sQHMjvI/AAAAAAABnxQ/t5UyKtQJUE4/s640/IMG_2568.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/Sya8BwMwuCI/AAAAAAABnyQ/DIUezww0Y7A/s640/IMG_2576.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/Sya8Jrm1uuI/AAAAAAABnyw/i0Xf0_7y53o/s640/IMG_2580.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/Sya8V7Ff3gI/AAAAAAABomY/VWTfFXoQ1LY/s640/IMG_2586.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/Sya8qFDoJQI/AAAAAAABons/9M4WCuZ8pWs/s640/IMG_2594.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/Sya9RwD1D9I/AAAAAAABooQ/PQhOJZn-TDM/s640/IMG_2610.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/Sya_R6gBQOI/AAAAAAABn-I/c_Mf4BQ1BiI/s640/IMG_2662.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/Sya_tDhrFpI/AAAAAAABn_o/rUPY6twHktc/s640/IMG_2674.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/Sya_5i82a_I/AAAAAAABoAQ/UBfRk5eAEf8/s640/IMG_2679.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SybAsYbpBHI/AAAAAAABorI/Gf_6Mqwv1lw/s640/IMG_2693.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SybAzckg4kI/AAAAAAABorg/IWpmm1BUVN0/s640/IMG_2696.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SybB7wLuwPI/AAAAAAABosQ/bgyqvGrQLsY/s640/IMG_2723.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SybDesC2__I/AAAAAAABovU/7y3ndHQrth8/s720/IMG_2760.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SybD8pJA6rI/AAAAAAABoMo/oVVrL9Cqrns/s640/IMG_2772.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SybC_3XRt9I/AAAAAAABoJ4/KktBYgxBVo4/s640/IMG_2749.JPG"></tr></td></table>

Three thousand years ago in Ireland there was a legendary outfit of warriors call the Fianna. Their leader was a guy called Finn McCool (Anglicized version), no doubt you've had a pint in a pub named after him.

Well he had a son called Oisin, and I'm the second ever Oisin in the whole world (Not strictly true, but with the difficulty people have pronouncing my name you'd think it was!) (ps... its ush-een, not fucking O-aye-shin, oye-sin, ossin, or any other version)

Anyway, Oisin was a warrior poet. (Snap!) (I'm a poet too, roses are red, violets are blue, pull down your knickers...and give us the remote control)

One day while out hunting he met a girl on a white horse called Niamh, (N-eve) and they instantly fell in love. She brought him to Tir Na Nog (Tear na nogue), the land of eternal youth.

While he was there for what he thought was just a year or two in real life over 1500 years had passed. Niamh told him that if he left and touched the soil of Ireland, he'd instantly age and die soon after. Oisin resolved to go anyway to see what had become of all his friends and family.

She gave him the white horse and as long as he didn't fall off he'd be ok, and then he could return to Tir Na Nog. (No truth to the rumor that Tir na Nog is in my back garden)

Oisin, when he set foot back in Ireland couldn't believe how much it had changed, the fianna a once proud warrior class had long since passed and the strength of the Irish has long since passed.

He observed a few men trying to move a boulder and rode over to move it for them but as he did his saddle broke and he fell to ground, ageing instantly. As he was about to die St. Patrick hearing of him came to see him; to convert him to Christianity. Oisin asked him had he ever rode the Ruta 40 in Argentina; St Patrick said no... and Oisin told him to go fuck himself and died soon after.

Niamh then lived for the next 1500 years waiting for Oisin incarnate to complete the Ruta 40, whereupon she would take him back to Tir na Nog and they would see out eternity together making wooly jumpers and having doggy style sex..... she waited and waited and waited........

(quick interlude)
I left Perito Moreno this morning, late for me considering I'd 440km of gravel, and 180km of the hard stuff between me and El Calafete. I'd say that between yesterday and today I've done the best technical riding of my life, right gear, right road position, right recovery on wobbles, right speed for the surface...in places I was absolutely flying....

I finished the unpaved section...I let the pictures tell you what it was like...and then I ran into a bird on a white horse....

She introduced herself as Niamh...and told me who she was, and yes I was indeed Oisin who had rode all the way here on the Ruta 40.

She said to me... Jump on the back of the horse and lets go to Tir na Nog.

I said to her...."Listen...I've 40 virgins waiting for me in Rio Gallegos tomorrow, any chance I could give you a shout the day after tomorrow and we'll go then?"

Niamh looked surprised.... "I've been waiting for you for 1,500 years"

I said listen... its only another 2 days, sure whats the harm?

She asked why wouldn't I come right then... I said listen...eternity is a long long long time... and the lads there would give me grief for the next ten thousand years "Can't believe you never boned them 40 virgins!", thats a lot to carry for eternity.

She left with a disgusted face... as she did I roared after her... "Hey!..how much do ya want for that pony!"


With a bit of luck I'll finish the 40 tomorrow, if not the day after.....message to the virgins... The big fella is coming...and hes a stork on him that would knock apples out of trees.

The big fella

 

[Aidan1150]

Too long on your own big fella.

You're in serious need of some lovin' now.

Be safe.

 

[Oisin]

strike in British airways...oh no!

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/DeqoAzY3-lg&hl=en_US&fs=1&">
</param>
<param name="allowFullScreen" value="true">
</param>
<param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always">
</param>
<embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/DeqoAzY3-lg&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

British airways are going on Strike on the 22nd of December for 12 days.... so I need to leave buenos aires on the 19th of December...have to get the bike to Lufthansa by the 18th...

It means riding 3500km in 3 days..... time to go!...or stay in BA for christmas....fuck that...there's a sack of mince pies with my name on them back in Ireland...

(the 40 virgins will have to do with one lick of the cango each)

Much Later
Oisin

 

[Paddy Dakar]

Mate, have been following you from the start, like so many others, have enjoyed your ramblings immensly, methinks with your sense of adventure, philosophy, writing and fantastic use of the camera, you should cut out a living no problem either putting pen to paper or doing tours!!

great stuff, thank you, safe home!!

 

[takahe]

+1 but keep safe. BA are not cancelling every flight you could get lucky.

 

[rtoilhead]

Oisin, the sooner you get home to those mince pies and a few pints of Guinness the better!

Take her easy now!

 

[Stewart H]

Keep safe and dont feck it up rushing because some greedy feckers are going on strike.
Stewart

 

[vireo]

It means riding 3500km in 3 days..... time to go!...or stay in BA for christmas....fuck that...there's a sack of mince pies with my name on them back in Ireland...

Hey Ois, best of luck in the next few days...........and if you need assistance with those mince pies, I'm sure there a gang of Irish tossers would be happy to oblige.....or buy you a pint ! It would be fitting after the entertainment your RR has provided........

V

 

[aRTy_Hexhead]

Oisin the AWESOME.

Just found this thread and spent 4 hrs catching you up.

All the very best getting finished safe and well.
To hang with BA.
Maybe the High Court will tell them to do the high jump. Find that out tomorrow.

B & W pics, and commentary top drawer.

Ride safe

aRTy

Inspirational for a rookie like me.

 

[Oisin]

You just wont believe the day I've had....

<table><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhCttADwgI/AAAAAAABpLQ/qZp_19pa1YM/s640/IMG_2998.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhDB_7Dl1I/AAAAAAABpNE/Kp9spgStD0Y/s640/IMG_3012.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhDC9GQCQI/AAAAAAABpNM/9VMvNjhnNyQ/s640/IMG_3013.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhDUlADyEI/AAAAAAABpO8/5Q0CEpLRTBA/s640/IMG_3028.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhDybq_5CI/AAAAAAABpR0/nvIFHDyCjYU/s640/IMG_3050.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhD6kU_PEI/AAAAAAABpSc/wSJVm8ceMtI/s640/IMG_3055.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhENuD90CI/AAAAAAABpUM/0JBODHFyX3A/s640/IMG_3068.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhEUpAvh-I/AAAAAAABpU8/HAaeA0j4etI/s640/IMG_3074.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhEfNukLnI/AAAAAAABpWA/ozhLl73bVK0/s640/IMG_3081.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhFGTw5DxI/AAAAAAABpaU/6UpywT1Snic/s640/IMG_3112.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhFNxSJvWI/AAAAAAABpbE/TjrECiqx-AY/s640/IMG_3118.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhFnw3FGyI/AAAAAAABpds/IUURGik-K2Q/s640/IMG_3138.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhF4mvrw1I/AAAAAAABpfE/tWVEJcEQ-HU/s640/IMG_3150.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhGPeikNcI/AAAAAAABphY/KD-jTQdwgVE/s640/IMG_3170.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhGbzFxXII/AAAAAAABpik/4Ixc6w45Qaw/s640/IMG_3179.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhGtpHWSzI/AAAAAAABpkU/fp98B7JksRg/s640/IMG_3193.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhG1Psg0tI/AAAAAAABplE/fZzAZEA5HEs/s640/IMG_3199.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhHRc2PvUI/AAAAAAABpn4/DK0excsvO7w/s640/IMG_3219.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhHdC1o0yI/AAAAAAABpo8/UkNB-zBEBhs/s640/IMG_3227.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhHmXCAPVI/AAAAAAABpp4/63YsiFNcyVQ/s640/IMG_3234.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhH0-OBjgI/AAAAAAABprc/x6w1Jm-RIAI/s640/IMG_3245.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhIRFkpwiI/AAAAAAABptY/braSCdIJyxI/s640/IMG_3260.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhIj8e5EbI/AAAAAAABpvY/nJDu7-PQWWU/s640/IMG_3278.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhIlHRVosI/AAAAAAABpvg/MIsNeFz6soo/s640/IMG_3279.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhI3fpFB7I/AAAAAAABpxg/rU_t-ZIWGRU/s640/IMG_3295.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhJH76MOlI/AAAAAAABpzQ/_YhCh61JOAw/s640/IMG_3310.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhJL7kMgLI/AAAAAAABp1Q/dEhKJUwkSKM/s640/IMG_3312.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhJOgvqH7I/AAAAAAABp2w/IgtUs9hOCXk/s640/IMG_3313.JPG"></tr></td><tr><td><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8x5h-fHHXiI/SyhJRGMi4xI/AAAAAAABp38/yX12KpdFDIE/s640/IMG_3314.JPG"></tr></td></table>

Today was insane.

I left El Calafate with the news of the British airways strike sending a rocket up my hole. For a while I toyed with heading north east and not finishing the 40 as I have to leave Argentina maybe as much as three days earlier than planned to avoid getting stranded here...but I said fuck it...no...you've come this far...it was only 515km to go....go for it.... once done I'd have about 2700km north to Buenos aires to ship the bike. I've been to Ushuaia last year so didn't mind skipping it.

The 40 out of Calafate takes you south to a town called 28 Novembre, and then swings east to Rio Gallegos. You can take a different road to Rio Gallegos, its all asphalt and its about 50km shorter...but I'd to take the 40. I was in the garage in 28 Novembre and they could'nt believe I was going that way. They told me no one will be on that road, if you get into trouble your fucked....story of my life.


Of the 515km, about 380km or so was gravel and sand and shite and muck. I've never felt so isolated and alone in my life. At times i would come over the crest of a hill and be looking at a plane so vast it would send a shiver of loneliness right through you...I think it might have been because i know I've no margin for error... on mishap now and i wont make it to Buenos Aires in time to ship the bike....In 225km once I headed east I saw no cars, and about four houses. As the minutes and hours go by and you continue to not see anyone you can't help but feel tiny.
It brought the quote "Oh God thy sea is so great and my boat is so small" to my head without me having to think about it....


As I drove on I was certain I saw lots of distorted skies....I had to look at the pictures a couple of times to make sure I wasn't hallucinating, to be driving along a road of gravel and everytime you look up the world is a blur is the most head wrecking thing that I've ever encountered.

I did run into a heap of sheep, and I do mean a heap... millions of them.... they've never seen a bike judging by their reaction...and as they were running away... I said to myself... "no way I'd shag a sheep"

I eventually made it to Rio Gallegos, and had a potter around looking for any sign which might say..."virgins assemble here"...or mile 0 of ruta 40...but there isn't...much like the start of the La Quiaca most people don't seem to know where it starts.....

All told it took me 5,200km to finish it.... from here its a small matter of hiking 2500+ km north to Buenos aires over the next three days.... so fun fun fun.

One small moan about Argentina... love the place..love the people...but the breakfast in the place is brutal... stale bread and jam, with coffee so strong you could walk across it!!!...rotten!!!...been the same the whole time I've been in the country..... Any Argies out there... just in case you've been misled all this time ..the white bit in the middle of the roll is supposed to soft!... (Did I hear a gasp!)

Anyway I finished the whole Ruta 40.... and I've never spent so much time on my own on a road in my life.... for anyone who feels that the world is packed and who wants to get away from it all...this is the route.... I've traveled literally thousands of miles on this road without meeting a soul.....

I finished the day after 850km total in a town called Puerto San Julian, they've a replica of the boat Magellan discovered the straits in, let me tell you...I've done shites bigger than it... they were brave men to take on the south Atlantic in a boat so small.

I walked around the town this evening... feeling nothing but echoes.... I was hear last year and met a biker called graham, we a good chat about us both having finished the pan am... a mate of mine John Mundy was here a week ago.... and it seemed everywhere I looked I could see parts of stories which people had told me....

Anyhoot... I'm beat...like I've never been beat... but the 40 has been defeated.

over and out
The big fella


<object width="560" height="340"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/wZMFhT9awgc&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/wZMFhT9awgc&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="560" height="340"></embed></object>

 

[vireo]

Congratulations!

Well done Oisin, thats a fantastic achievement and you're one brave bollix to take it on alone. Somehow, I think the possible outcomes of even a minor incident would prevent me from taking the risk of riding the Route 40 on my todd.

Now you've a story for life ......

Huge respect !

V