Rubber seals pushrod tubes

[MickDB1]

OK so there leakin a bit / odd drip etc.

I think I have heard of a quick bodge of knocking the seals further in with a shaped tool - has anyone done this as a temperary bodge-up and is / was it sucsessful

I know what Rob will tell me " mend it with some new uns yer miser "
How long has anyone had the seals leaking for ??? before they deteriate so much that you have to change them. Seems pointless to strip it all down for a odd drip

I am not asking this for a friend

 

[Rob Farmer]

£1.23 each

You can do it without taking the head from the barrel and it's as well to fit new base O rings at the same time.

Once they have gone hard and started to leak it's only a matter of time before they let rip big time.

 

[cookie]

later model pushrod tubes have the flanges that butt against the rubbers welded to the tubes so the hitting with a hammer trick won't work.

 

[TheWarlock]

I have seen the "special tool" (a piece of cut pipe that you hit with a hammer ) being used a number of times and it never successfully stopped the leak. As Rob says, you are much better to strip the barrels off and replace the seals and do all the base O-rings at the same time. It only takes a couple of hours if you have done it before and the job is done properly.

 

[MickDB1]

OK
Thanks for the Info and tips
I will doo them shortly - soon
£1.23 eh

Anyone got any part worn spare ?????


















Only Jokin

Are you saying that I can leave head attatched to barrel remove gudgeon pin
then leave piston in barrel Rob

Not tried that -
Done the piston in barrel trick alleaviate pissin about with to be broken rings
Would you recomend the larger diameter base O ring or stick to standard size
then theres the small O rings on the base seal of the rods

Thanks again anyway

 

[cookie]

head studs go through barrel and head. you have to take it all off to change the base o ring.

 

[Rob Farmer]

If you're being really tight you can leave the head and barrel bolted together to save on a new head gasket but to be honest I'd take the oppourtunity to clean off the carbon from the exhaust valves.

If you want to come round mine and do it you're more than welcome

 

[cookie]

If you're being really tight you can leave the head and barrel bolted together to save on a new head gasket but to be honest I'd take the oppourtunity to clean off the carbon from the exhaust valves.

you'd have to be VERY tight.

 

[Rob Farmer]

you'd have to be VERY tight.

You clearly haven't met Mick

He is very free and easy with the club biscuits and cups of Tea though

 

[Deleted Member MS]

Just a bit of info and a warning re the pushrod tube grometts etc.
After a winter rebuild on my own GS using s/s tubes, i had a slight leak from the right front tube grommet. I had used the recommended sealant from BMW etc.
When i realised I had a leak, i used the tried and tested method from above, ie, knocking the tubes "home" with the angled kinda tube affair.

The leak got worse. I eventually stripped the bike again and found out that the little "washers" on the tubes on the R side were slightly lose. This meant no amount of persuasion would have sealed them 100%.(rubber grommit stronger than the rotating, ill fitting washers !!!! ie,rubber not being compressed enough into engine block)

I ended up measuring the tube/washers and putting a tiny bit of weld on the tubes to stop the washers "sliding" back up the tube.

1) . .Since then everything has been oil tight.
2) .. the left cylinder has been 100% since original rebuild. One can only assume that the 2 pairs i bought may have been slightly different in size.
3) .. I used s/s tubes which are made from one of two sources. I think mine were the non keihen type. The kehian ones are supposed to be superior (Please excuse "kehian" spelling)
4) . .they were a bastid to fit. Barrel in oven. Two poeple holding it whilst hot and me welting the dam things in with punch and hammer.
5) . .im knackered after writing all that !!!