Running/ breaking in a new one

Take it easy for 100 miles in case the PDI monkey was pissed and to scrub the tyres in then just ride it away from motorways using the available rev range as much as possible. Doing 200 miles with the cruise control set at 80mph is a lot worse than nailing it in short bursts.

I’ve had plenty of brand new bikes and never blown one up but I’ve had a rear tyre that dropped 3psi per day until it settled at about 20psi from the day I collected it until the valve was changed and my wife had a Triumph Daytona that needed the steering head bearing adjusting after 100 miles so shit can happen.
 
I agree with u turn Tony. A while back I bought two identical bikes (a short time apart). Made a bad decision after trading in the first one and ended up with a second one a few months later.
Anyway, the first I treated like a baby, ran it in carefully as per the book no high revs and no labouring the engine. The second got thrashed within an inch of it,s life.
The second bike was a much better bike than the first, smoother with noticeably more power.
So my advice is ride it as you would normally maybe harder if can.
Y.M.M.V.

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Just ride it normally within the 5000 rpm limit, work it through the gears but do not labour the engine in the higher gears , most important is keep an eye on the oil and water levels and check the other parts as you ride (if you have a Rallye check the spokes).

At work I was regularly allocated the new vans to run in , the ones I ran in always ended up not using oil between services, got better mpg and ended up being freer revving and usually 5 or 6 mph quicker than otherwise identical vehicles on the fleet (especially those that had been nursed by slower but less mechanically sympathetic drivers)
 
Ok ... I’m going to try a different approach to my new bike... no exhaust change .. no hilltop :eek:.... and run it in by the book, which ever book that is... I’m picking it up on Saturday and have 3 days to do the required miles before I return it on Tuesday for the first service.

So let’s have it .... how do we run these things in ?

RTFM - simples :)
 
Heat Cycle Chemistry

Let's look at what a heat cycle is, and what it does to the tire. We will concentrate on the tread compound, but there are similar benefits for the other compounds in the race tire that actually hold everything together. To understand what happens in a heat cycle, let's talk about the molecules that make up the compound. For those of you who don't remember your high school chemistry classes, the molecules that make up polymers are long chains of atoms. To kind of visualize this, think of a bunch of rubber bands. Imagine that they have all been cut with a pair of scissors so that they are not closed loops anymore. Now throw a bunch of them into a box and shake it up. Those represent the polymer molecules.

In addition to being highly intermingled, these molecules are connected, (or attracted), to each other by a variety of chemical networks. For simplicity, we will refer to all of these networks as chemical bonds. These bonds, (or attractions), are what we are concerned with here. During the manufacturing process, these bonds form in a more or less disorganized way. Some of the bonds are very short and strong. Some of them are very long and weak. The rest of them vary between the two.

Now, when you take that tire and run it, things start to happen. The molecules get stretched and compressed. This first causes the weaker bonds that connect these molecules to break. When the bonds break, heat is generated. As the heat builds and the flexing continues, more bonds break, more heat is generated, stronger bonds break, more heat is generated, and so on... Remember that these bonds are what connect the molecules to each other. They give the compound its strength. When this strength is reduced, the compound can't grip the road surface as well. It rubs off instead of holding together. The result is less grip, more slip on the road surface, more heat generated, and more tread wear.

So then, what happens in a heat cycle that can improve the performance and durability of your brand new tires? Well, actually, the situation described above is the first step in the heat cycle process. You want to break all of those "uneven" bonds. What happens next is where the real magic of alchemy comes into play. After these bonds have broken, and this heat has been generated, and the tires are finally allowed to be set aside and relax, the bonds tend to REFORM! But now they reform in a much more uniform manner! This means that they are more consistent in strength. Therefore, the compound becomes more resistant to losing its strength the next time the tires are run. That doesn't mean that you can't make the tires give up anymore. The bonds will still break if you exceed the limits of the compound, (both mechanical and thermal). But they will be more resistant to it because they are working together now as equals (in parallel), instead of individually (in series). And, given the time to relax again, they will reform again in the same uniform manner. Here is the most important thing to learn, and remember about this process. These bonds MUST be given ENOUGH TIME to do their magical reformation. The tires must be allowed relax for an absolute minimum of 24 hours after that initial heat cycle. If you don't give the tires enough time to reform those bonds though, then you are going out on tires with a weakened compound and their performance will show it. Understanding how this works, and how to use it to your advantage, is important to getting the most from your tires.
 
Thats why brand new tyres are black.

After heat cycling they start to change chemistry and go black/brown.

You then get best grip and performance
 
I treated mine like a baby for the first 100 miles, then like a naughty 6 year old for the next 100.... at 200 miles I rode it normally for 100 miles.....from 300 to 600 I spanked the fuck out of it.....had it serviced now ride it normally......
 
Heat Cycle Chemistry

Let's look at what a heat cycle is, and what it does to the tire. We will concentrate on the tread compound, but there are similar benefits for the other compounds in the race tire that actually hold everything together. To understand what happens in a heat cycle, let's talk about the molecules that make up the compound. For those of you who don't remember your high school chemistry classes, the molecules that make up polymers are long chains of atoms. To kind of visualize this, think of a bunch of rubber bands. Imagine that they have all been cut with a pair of scissors so that they are not closed loops anymore. Now throw a bunch of them into a box and shake it up. Those represent the polymer molecules.

In addition to being highly intermingled, these molecules are connected, (or attracted), to each other by a variety of chemical networks. For simplicity, we will refer to all of these networks as chemical bonds. These bonds, (or attractions), are what we are concerned with here. During the manufacturing process, these bonds form in a more or less disorganized way. Some of the bonds are very short and strong. Some of them are very long and weak. The rest of them vary between the two.

Now, when you take that tire and run it, things start to happen. The molecules get stretched and compressed. This first causes the weaker bonds that connect these molecules to break. When the bonds break, heat is generated. As the heat builds and the flexing continues, more bonds break, more heat is generated, stronger bonds break, more heat is generated, and so on... Remember that these bonds are what connect the molecules to each other. They give the compound its strength. When this strength is reduced, the compound can't grip the road surface as well. It rubs off instead of holding together. The result is less grip, more slip on the road surface, more heat generated, and more tread wear.

So then, what happens in a heat cycle that can improve the performance and durability of your brand new tires? Well, actually, the situation described above is the first step in the heat cycle process. You want to break all of those "uneven" bonds. What happens next is where the real magic of alchemy comes into play. After these bonds have broken, and this heat has been generated, and the tires are finally allowed to be set aside and relax, the bonds tend to REFORM! But now they reform in a much more uniform manner! This means that they are more consistent in strength. Therefore, the compound becomes more resistant to losing its strength the next time the tires are run. That doesn't mean that you can't make the tires give up anymore. The bonds will still break if you exceed the limits of the compound, (both mechanical and thermal). But they will be more resistant to it because they are working together now as equals (in parallel), instead of individually (in series). And, given the time to relax again, they will reform again in the same uniform manner. Here is the most important thing to learn, and remember about this process. These bonds MUST be given ENOUGH TIME to do their magical reformation. The tires must be allowed relax for an absolute minimum of 24 hours after that initial heat cycle. If you don't give the tires enough time to reform those bonds though, then you are going out on tires with a weakened compound and their performance will show it. Understanding how this works, and how to use it to your advantage, is important to getting the most from your tires.

You’ve got way too much time on your hands!
 
Heat Cycle Chemistry

Let's look at what a heat cycle is, and what it does to the tire. We will concentrate on the tread compound, but there are similar benefits for the other compounds in the race tire that actually hold everything together. To understand what happens in a heat cycle, let's talk about the molecules that make up the compound. For those of you who don't remember your high school chemistry classes, the molecules that make up polymers are long chains of atoms. To kind of visualize this, think of a bunch of rubber bands. Imagine that they have all been cut with a pair of scissors so that they are not closed loops anymore. Now throw a bunch of them into a box and shake it up. Those represent the polymer molecules.

In addition to being highly intermingled, these molecules are connected, (or attracted), to each other by a variety of chemical networks. For simplicity, we will refer to all of these networks as chemical bonds. These bonds, (or attractions), are what we are concerned with here. During the manufacturing process, these bonds form in a more or less disorganized way. Some of the bonds are very short and strong. Some of them are very long and weak. The rest of them vary between the two.

Now, when you take that tire and run it, things start to happen. The molecules get stretched and compressed. This first causes the weaker bonds that connect these molecules to break. When the bonds break, heat is generated. As the heat builds and the flexing continues, more bonds break, more heat is generated, stronger bonds break, more heat is generated, and so on... Remember that these bonds are what connect the molecules to each other. They give the compound its strength. When this strength is reduced, the compound can't grip the road surface as well. It rubs off instead of holding together. The result is less grip, more slip on the road surface, more heat generated, and more tread wear.

So then, what happens in a heat cycle that can improve the performance and durability of your brand new tires? Well, actually, the situation described above is the first step in the heat cycle process. You want to break all of those "uneven" bonds. What happens next is where the real magic of alchemy comes into play. After these bonds have broken, and this heat has been generated, and the tires are finally allowed to be set aside and relax, the bonds tend to REFORM! But now they reform in a much more uniform manner! This means that they are more consistent in strength. Therefore, the compound becomes more resistant to losing its strength the next time the tires are run. That doesn't mean that you can't make the tires give up anymore. The bonds will still break if you exceed the limits of the compound, (both mechanical and thermal). But they will be more resistant to it because they are working together now as equals (in parallel), instead of individually (in series). And, given the time to relax again, they will reform again in the same uniform manner. Here is the most important thing to learn, and remember about this process. These bonds MUST be given ENOUGH TIME to do their magical reformation. The tires must be allowed relax for an absolute minimum of 24 hours after that initial heat cycle. If you don't give the tires enough time to reform those bonds though, then you are going out on tires with a weakened compound and their performance will show it. Understanding how this works, and how to use it to your advantage, is important to getting the most from your tires.

Hmmmm, I don't often call out stuff on forums but I am not convinced about all that for everyday road use. A cut and paste from here http://www.hoosierdirect.com/tire-heat-cycle.html A website about motorsport products for cars specifically. If heat cycles were so important for road tyres, dunlop, Conti, and all rest of them would be all over it. It might be the case that race track tyres need a heat cycle though, I wouldn't know as I don't do track days. As far as I understand it new road tyres need a period of somewhat gentle scrubbing in - to gradually roughen the otherwise smooth surface from its manufacture and to get the tyre properly bedded into wheel. And that's the advice you always get from a proper tyre fitter - "take it easy for the first 100miles or so".
 
Its a mute point, because as a motorcyclist you do it anyway.

All I did was draw attention to something you may not know you were doing.

But still, it's worth noting when running your brand new bike in as it is a relevant process for tyres.

Its not all about scrubbing in, heat cycling is important on the first run out.
 
first of all before it moves, drop the shite piss thin oil and replace with Motul 7100 or better 300v..

BMW won’t like that.......


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I took mine on a track day after 100 miles, ran it in on the way to Rockingham, bike is lovely, smooth, used no oil in 6500 miles, gearbox is a treat, tyres were shagged though, never did recover.
 
first of all before it moves, drop the shite piss thin oil and replace with Motul 7100 or better 300v..

That thin oil is in for a reason; it allows the piston and bore to ware in unison, and form a gas and oil tight bond. If the oil is to good to start with; the bond is never established and you end up with an engine thats never run in; and uses oil; you need some ware to make it all work properly. Look at the term; glazed bores.
 
That thin oil is in for a reason; it allows the piston and bore to ware in unison, and form a gas and oil tight bond. If the oil is to good to start with; the bond is never established and you end up with an engine thats never run in; and uses oil; you need some ware to make it all work properly. Look at the term; glazed bores.

i use 15/50 300v never had a problem.. and never uses oil
 


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