Running in Issues

capesey

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Not posted a daft question for a week so I thought I'd keep my quota up with 2 this week...

Still running in my new TB, only 300 miles on it so far but 1, It can be a real pain to get into gear when the engine is cold, have to keep re applying the the clutch and releasing until it eventually goes in, and 2, there is a 'clicking noise coming from the front when I brake, only really notice it at low speeds (prob from lack of wind noise etc) and it definitely doesn't do it if I just use the back brake.

So with my first service due on Thursday, do I mention these to the service folk or are they a case of 'they all do that' as it is still loosening up?

There seems to be far more pitching under acceleration than from my previous bike (Kawasaki Versys), is this easy enough to dial out by adjusting the suspension? I don't have ESA and didn't notice it as much on the demo bikes (which both had ESA) Being 6ft 3 and 110kg probably diesn't help :augie

Any thoughts much appreciated..!
 
TB's are a bit of an unknown entity still and I guess there could be all sorts of reasons that are particular to them :nenau

The clicking from the front when you brake could be the floating discs settling against the bobbins? Does it only happen when braking is first applied, if so that's likely to be what it is. However, if your bobbins are black then that's a whole new kettle of coi carp.

The gears thing is quite normal. It will improve with miles (as in quite a few) but they all do that. There is a knack; increase revs slightly, partly let out the clutch and snick into 1st gear...after that it's just positive selection of gears. Although, just a thought.......does the TB have a different gear lever :nenau

Sounds like your suspension needs setting up - refer to the owners manual but I found mine worked better with the preload on the back quite high and the front on standard. There should be little or no pitching under acceleration as the telelever front end virtualy negates this. What colour is the C Spanner for adjusting the front preload as this may have a bearing on things?

All the above should help, well they will work on a standard GS so hopefully you should be able to apply most of it to a TB :nenau
 
Gear selection

+ 2 for partially pulling in the clutch to change gear when stationary , and also selecting 1st from neutral when pulling away. Currently have a 1200 gs which has only 800 miles on it, changing gear when on the move no problem at all.
Enjoy!
 
Outtomunch has prety much said it all ... :thumb2

(:blast For the last two years i've read that name as out to much :D Only just noticed the 'n' ... :D)
 
TB's are a bit of an unknown entity still and I guess there could be all sorts of reasons that are particular to them :nenau

The clicking from the front when you brake could be the floating discs settling against the bobbins? Does it only happen when braking is first applied, if so that's likely to be what it is. However, if your bobbins are black then that's a whole new kettle of coi carp.

The gears thing is quite normal. It will improve with miles (as in quite a few) but they all do that. There is a knack; increase revs slightly, partly let out the clutch and snick into 1st gear...after that it's just positive selection of gears. Although, just a thought.......does the TB have a different gear lever :nenau

Sounds like your suspension needs setting up - refer to the owners manual but I found mine worked better with the preload on the back quite high and the front on standard. There should be little or no pitching under acceleration as the telelever front end virtualy negates this. What colour is the C Spanner for adjusting the front preload as this may have a bearing on things?

All the above should help, well they will work on a standard GS so hopefully you should be able to apply most of it to a TB :nenau

TB's ........are indeed a different breed of GS and as such, as Andres says - they are an unknown quantity until we see them with more miles on

Along with a unique, highly developed and most desirable paint scheme........ they have components unlike any of the other GS's to date

I believe many of the gearbox components are hewn from pure unobtanium Titanium, making them even more unique and desirable

This unobtanium Titanium could be the cause of your notchy and stiff gearchanging

As any engineer knows.... unobtanium Titanium needs at least 2000 miles of varied use to become perfectly aligned, for the most sumptuous of gearchanges

Let us know how you get on in the next 2000 miles:thumb
 
300 miles is not long enough for things to settle down and personally I would not put it in for a first service until at least 600 to 700 miles ;)

PS is it a 1200GS TB or a 1200GSA TB
 
A bit of a conundrum.........

My white GSA (2006) had a really slick gearbox, whereas my grey GSA (2010) is a bit notchy.

I was thinking of getting a quote for a respray, as the way I see it is - the respray will cure the problem for ever, wheras any cleaning/lubrication may only last a year, at best?

Now that I've been alerted - I won't be getting it resprayed - black. :rob

I might change my moniker to WhiteAl too :thumb2

White - the new black:augie
 
Not posted a daft question for a week so I thought I'd keep my quota up with 2 this week...

Still running in my new TB, only 300 miles on it so far but 1, It can be a real pain to get into gear when the engine is cold, have to keep re applying the the clutch and releasing until it eventually goes in, and 2, there is a 'clicking noise coming from the front when I brake, only really notice it at low speeds (prob from lack of wind noise etc) and it definitely doesn't do it if I just use the back brake.

So with my first service due on Thursday, do I mention these to the service folk or are they a case of 'they all do that' as it is still loosening up?

There seems to be far more pitching under acceleration than from my previous bike (Kawasaki Versys), is this easy enough to dial out by adjusting the suspension? I don't have ESA and didn't notice it as much on the demo bikes (which both had ESA) Being 6ft 3 and 110kg probably diesn't help :augie

Any thoughts much appreciated..!

Done 5,000 miles now on my TB sweet as a nut had these issues but now great, just run nice and easy till two three bars up on the temp gauge to warm things up then ride how you like, I love the bike BMW twins are quirkey but special the more you ride the more you will love the bike:thumb
 
If I change from Neutral into 1st I find it best to pull the clutch in and immediately select first while the gearbox input shaft is still spinning, if you wait then that's when I find it doesn't always go in.

However I almost never use neutral. On the BMW off-road course they said don't bother with neutral. Just stop in first and leave it in first, putting the side stand down stops the engine. No need to waste the time finding neutral. When you want to leave just flick the side stand up, pull the clutch in, start the engine and then ride away.

Leaving it in first also stops it rolling of the side stand when stopped on an incline.
 
TB's ........are indeed a different breed of GS and as such, as Andres says - they are an unknown quantity until we see them with more miles on

Along with a unique, highly developed and most desirable paint scheme........ they have components unlike any of the other GS's to date


:thumb
 
However I almost never use neutral. On the BMW off-road course they said don't bother with neutral. Just stop in first and leave it in first, putting the side stand down stops the engine. No need to waste the time finding neutral. When you want to leave just flick the side stand up, pull the clutch in, start the engine and then ride away.

I will keep an eye out for you when waiting patiently at traffic lights. It will be fun to watch.............
 
Thanks for the info, just done another 120 miles today. Still have the clicking noise when braking so will mention that. I'll try the gearbox trick tomorrow to see if it's any better. Will also try fiddling with the suspension a bit. I don't have a c spanner in my toolbox so I think I'll ask the service guys to adjust the front a touch so theres less pitching. In the meantime i'll have a fiddle with the rear to see if it makes a difference. When increasing the rear preload I need to firm up the damping too to keep them in balance, correct? The manual goes a bit vague on this... How much would I need to increase the damping if I increased the preload by 2 clicks for example?

Ps its a triple black GS
 
When I had OE shocks on my '05 I wound the damping up 1/4 turn IIRC. Oh, and had the preload about 3/4 of the way in (I weigh 95kg)

Increasing the damping a bit should help but it doesn't have to be done 'because' you increase the preload. It's done to a) to set the correct sag (difference in height of the bike between being loaded and unloaded and b) to load the front end a wee bit more which, IMHO, made the bike handle more to me liking (slightly more planted front end a slightly quicker steering). There isn't really a right or wrong just what feels 'right' for you.

Andres
 
Play with the back suspension first. The front only really moves on bumps and not on braking and stuff which is as it should be. Most of what people perceive to be the front is actually the rear squatting and then extending. Put a bit more damping in the rear and see how you get on. If it sinks a lot when you sit on it then give it a bit more preload as well. If you don't belive me then put all the damping in and unless your heavy and fully loaded the rear will hardly move.
 
A bit of a conundrum.........

My white GSA (2006) had a really slick gearbox, whereas my grey GSA (2010) is a bit notchy.

I was thinking of getting a quote for a respray, as the way I see it is - the respray will cure the problem for ever, wheras any cleaning/lubrication may only last a year, at best?

Now that I've been alerted - I won't be getting it resprayed - black. :rob

I might change my moniker to WhiteAl too :thumb2

White - the new black:augie

Paint it Blue, instant power increase!!.
 
Eng cold = oil cold = notchy gearbox due to oil coring, its not a drama.

You should notice it more during winter when the oil is colder yet :)

What is ''oil coring''?:confused: I've been around engines a few decades - never heard of this. Genuine question, not a troll.

Alan R
 
Oh my giddy fecking aunt..

Why would the colour make any difference to running in..?

Is this a wind up? I know it's the 1200 section.... but , come on!
 


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