Seized Bolt

[B4ndit]

Any tips for getting a seized bolt undone on the exhaust. It the clamp bolt that isn't tight enough to secure the exhaust properly but isn't loose enough to allow me to pull the exhaust off.

Part no 10 on the attached diagram.

 

[ghiribizzo]

Try one of these:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/crack-it-freeze-release-spray-400ml/98823

 

[B4ndit]

That looks interesting.

I was expecting someone to come on and say use heat. I didn't expect someone to say freeze it.

I could do with getting this undone so I can put some exhaust gum in and seal it up properly.

 

[MattW]

Sometimes nothing works (or it stops being worth the effort to continue trying). I've had to give up on a couple of exhaust bolts before now and grind / dremmel them off.

 

[warmshed]

That looks interesting.

I was expecting someone to come on and say use heat. I didn't expect someone to say freeze it.

I could do with getting this undone so I can put some exhaust gum in and seal it up properly.

Use clear silicone, the builder's type, much better than any exhaust gum Ive used, cheap and allows easy dismantling too.

 

[dancata]

WD40 and knock it with a metal hammer to get it loosened Worked for my bike

Dan.

 

[B4ndit]

Sometimes nothing works (or it stops being worth the effort to continue trying). I've had to give up on a couple of exhaust bolts before now and grind / dremmel them off.

That is an option but it appears to be part of a cover plate that in total on the US web site costs $131. So its not something I want to do.

 

[B4ndit]

Use clear silicone, the builder's type, much better than any exhaust gum Ive used, cheap and allows easy dismantling too.

I take it it won't melt or burn then?

 

[Shep]

You canbuy hi temp silicon, plumberflue is one i think, won't work on the head joint that's too hot but it does work well on the silencer joints

 

[cookie]

I take it it won't melt or burn then?

ordinary silicone from B&Q will work fine anywhere from the headers back, not the manifold IME.

as earlier poster said, makes disassembly easy too

 

[B4ndit]

Well tried to get the exhaust clamp off but I don't think its going to budge. Read the Haynes manual and that suggests leaving the joint alone as its liable to break.

Therefore as its only a little bit loose I am going to try and pack it in situ with silicone sealant. I have some RTV sealant lying around somewhere that I can use.

 

[(RIP) DitchWater]

Sometimes nothing works (or it stops being worth the effort to continue trying). I've had to give up on a couple of exhaust bolts before now and grind / dremmel them off.

I've done one of these as well: Just remove the seized item and use a stainless steel bolt of your own. If you try and nurse it you will only be disappointed in the future and have to replace it anyway.

 

[Steptoe]

Well tried to get the exhaust clamp off but I don't think its going to budge. Read the Haynes manual and that suggests leaving the joint alone as its liable to break.

.

To remove that particular clamp you pull off the silencer first, and then the clamp can be removed.
You put it back in the same way -clamp on the cat, and then fit the silencer into the clamp.

 

[B4ndit]

To remove that particular clamp you pull off the silencer first, and then the clamp can be removed.
You put it back in the same way -clamp on the cat, and then fit the silencer into the clamp.

I understand what your saying. But looking at the diagram there appears to be a lip where the clamp sits. I can't undo the bolt to allow enough free room to wiggle the exhaust off.

Can I cut the head of the bolt off and use a new stainless steel nut and bolt to replace the cut part?

I don't want to destroy anything more than I have to in the process.

 

[B4ndit]

Come to think of it there is only a very little bit of movement at the join. Is it worth bothering about?

 

[(RIP) DitchWater]

Is it worth bothering about?

It's your turn to decide what to do.

 

[B4ndit]

Once someone has confirmed that the clamps nut and bolt can be replaced after being cut off I am going to cut it.

I have ordered a new rubber grommit for the top mount so I might as well sort it properly.

I've got loads of nuts and bolts lying around so one pair might as well be put to good use.

 

[(RIP) DitchWater]

Once someone has confirmed that....

Just have a look at it and you'll see what's required. There were ship builders dealing with wooden threaded bolts 500 years ago which had significantly more important purposes and resultant consequences than what's being discussed here. Go on...Have a go at it.

 

[B4ndit]

Just have a look at it and you'll see what's required. There were ship builders dealing with wooden threaded bolts 500 years ago which had significantly more important purposes and resultant consequences than what's being discussed here. Go on...Have a go at it.

But it wasn't there money if they mucked it up.

Anyway I have had another look at it and guess I can just cut the bolt off and replace it with a stainless one.

 

[Pauly S]

Try the freezer spray with lube built in

Theres a freeze spray with lube built in by wurth.spray it several times leaving 3-5 mins in between, try tightening it, untightening it, tightening it,untightening it, and so on,the worse it will do is snap, and you was to replace it anyway.
Make sure you use a decent six sided socket.you'll probably get it off anyways, thats how i did mine.Coppergreased it and its back on.sorted.