Seized flap valve

unibar

Active member
UKGSer Subscriber
Joined
Sep 27, 2002
Messages
308
Reaction score
1
What is the best method to unsieze such a beast, Its now off the bike along with the servo so I can get heat to it if needed, people have mentioned graphite oil but no local stockists have such a thing.
It was stuck open, so i don't think much has happened by way of power delivery however i'm prone to dark thoughts and its keeping me awake at night.

Suggestions as always very welcome

Paul
 
Even if you free it up and grease it it's likely to seize again, Cheapest option is leave it in the open position and remove the cables from the servo. My solution was a replacement piece of pipe from NN and remove the whole lot including servo. No flap to seize and looks a lot neater. There is a bit more noise as you go through the revs but nothing obtrusive. Do a search, plenty of info on here on how to deal with it.
 
i left mine over night in some full fat coka cola ,the real stuff ,not cheepie asda stuff ,then next day i used brake cleaner aerosol to clean it out ,bean no bother since :thumb
 
Coke is good for cleaning as fizzer mentioned, but I removed mine and replaced with a stainless sleeve.
 
Hi unibar where in the uk are U maybe I can help ?

To be fair best thing to do is replace with a sleeve or better still get new down pipes and get rid of the cat as well
 
Thanks guys
I'm in Greenwich London I've a feeling its been this way since i bought it, it runs a bit rough between 3.5 and 4.5 which due to living in London is where i spend a fair amount of time.. As the valve stayed open i guess i could just disconnect the cables at the Servo end should freeing it up fail, i would however like to see how it runs with it working if i can

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
Off to get some coke!

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
Soaking the valve in diesel oil will also free off a stuck shaft. But its likely to jam up again.

The TC has a noisy fairly open silencer can. To keep the regulators happy BMW add the flappy valve to reduce noise at low throttle settings. It does nothing for engine smoothness or power.

The most simple option is a length of tube and replace the valve. Take the valve actuator and cable off the bike and store it safe. You might need it some time.

If its too noisy fit a universal baffle.
 
You don't really need the flappy valve although I prefer it for quieter running in towns. Available second hand on eBay but overpriced for what they are in my opinion.
The roughness at 3.5 to 4.5 rpm is completely normal on a standard GS. Caused by emission controls.
If you want a smooth, torqey thing, you need to look at an ECU remap, power commander or AF XiED units.
Pros and cons of all are well documented on the forum.
 
OK.. its seized so badly i'm assuming its been like that since i got it. other than weight saving ( i'm 120 Kg kitted! ) what are the pros of fitting the pipe over just disconnecting the cables from the servo pulley, at least that way everything stays watertight electrical connector wise I assume?
If there is an actual benefit to removing the valve which is stuck in open i will source a connector pipe, again wisdon is most welcome

Ta

Paul
 
As you say the valve could be just left in place disconnect and remove everything else. The motor will be subject to weather damage etc etc. Its quick to remove just unplug the electrical connector and fit a straight pipe in place of the valve. Be careful where you buy the pipe insert. Wunderlich, Touratech, etc want £30 for a tube worth a fraction of that.
 
Pipe

OK

if I can source a pipe cheaply enough i will do that, how best to protect the electrical connector?

Bendy toy said:
As you say the valve could be just left in place disconnect and remove everything else. The motor will be subject to weather damage etc etc. Its quick to remove just unplug the electrical connector and fit a straight pipe in place of the valve. Be careful where you buy the pipe insert. Wunderlich, Touratech, etc want £30 for a tube worth a fraction of that.
Click to expand...
 
Someone on here was selling the tubes - about a tenner, i think. Try a search. I got one and and removed the whole thing. Blocked the holes into the servo with rubber grommets. I still hear the motor going through the test phase when switching on the ignition so I know all that side is still working fine - not that it does anything - just nice to know that it is happy!
The flapper section of pipe and attached cables now grace a shelf in the garage ready to be re-installed if I ever feel the inclination - which I am sure I wont!
 
I popped the standard exhaust back on and have a blow. The haynes Manual mention. Line up lines. I can see none!! '

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
Don't know about line up marks but would recommend you use exhaust ASSEMBLY paste. I've used Holts Firegum. Buy it in Halfords.
It's like a cream that lubricates the joints during assembly and then seal any gaps when it heats up. Easily broken when taking it apart again. Don't use exhaust repair paste.
 
Thanks i just wiped a bit of Cooper slip around it, will whip it off and start again

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

tspivey
Healtech, Unit Garage exhaust flap valve keeperopener thing.
Replies
3
Views
397
botus
Exhaust flap valve
Replies
13
Views
1,717
Alan R
G&T
Exhaust flap valve - don’t get this cable end wrong
Replies
4
Views
1,216
G&T
G&T
Santa-2512
Flappy valve ? i dont get it
2 3
Replies
43
Views
3,855
Kenny Rodkiss
Kenny Rodkiss
Bigcats
Butterfly Valve - Exhaust Valve - Exhaust Flapper - Sticking or Seized Valve - Delete BMW R1250GS/A
2 3
Replies
46
Views
9,286
PitaNaanRoti


Back
Top Bottom