Sgt Bilco's great Alaska Adventure 2016

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Is that the place with non-stop "Praise the Lord" music playing over the speakers - but which makes up for it by serving excellent food? :P

EDIT - My Mistake - I was thinking of Mukluk Annie's... :D

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We left Tok, actually pronounced Toke, in the wet which didn't bode well for the Top of the Highway.

Stopped at Chicken for the usual "I got laid in Chicken" sticker and a coffee. Nice old wrecker on show as well for my delectation.

Apparently it had been raining non stop for 3 weeks so it was looking like our luck with the weather gods was about to end and it it did in spectacular style.

Now I've ridden this road 5 or 6 times so know it well and have learnt how things change very quickly in Alaska. It's a hard packed dirt road up to the border then it because a rough concrete road into Dawson. Getting onto the dirt I realised we would be in for a tough day as anyone who had ridden up here knows this is no ordinary dirt and is like riding on snot for the want of a better expression. It's slippy and sticks everywhere. It had stopped raining so hopefully it wouldn't be too bad and would dry up................!!
 

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Once you get used to the mud it's not too bad but you have to be very, very careful especially on a loaded GS. The Heidenau K60's are brilliant tyres and cope with these conditions with consumate ease.

They joy of joys as we approach the Pokers Creek border crossing (most northerly land border in the US) the surface has been tarmaced and is as good as any road on the planet. Let the weather do it's worst.......

As we got into Canada, the clouds were gathering and it was very gloomy indeed. The road is around 7000ft up so you are high and in amongst the clouds.....!! Jeff, Steve and Alex gird their loins and prepare to head East to Dawson.
 

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We left Tok, actually pronounced Toke, in the wet which didn't bode well for the Top of the Highway.

Stopped at Chicken for the usual "I got laid in Chicken" sticker and a coffee. Nice old wrecker on show as well for my delectation.

!

You know the story of Chicken, of course?

Chicken was settled by gold miners in the late 1800s and in 1902 the local post office was established requiring a community name. Due to the prevalence of ptarmigan in the area that name was suggested as the official name for the new community. However, the spelling could not be agreed on and Chicken was used to avoid embarrassment :blast

Al :D
 
We said off merrily into Canada with a cheery wave from the border guards. This section of teh road is normally pretty good with patches of gravel but the authorities had decided to grade it. They take the top layer off and leave solid dirt with the attention of replacing the top at a later date. Under normal conditions this wouldn't be so bad but it decided to turn into a "lets see how tough we can make it for bikers" kind of day.

The heavens opened and the fog closed is so for 60 miles we were pretty much blind, riding on slippy mud in pouring rain.......lovely. I think most people would agree that it was probably the worst 90 mins of their life on two wheels be miraculously we all staggered down the hill and onto the ferry crossing the Yukon into Dawson. Miserable conditions don't cover it.

Steve look utterly releived he had got through that and the only off was a slow speed tumble by Rob and Nicki as tehy avoided a gold wing which was staggering through it. Nicki showed off her combat wounds and teh camel back that acted as a cushion!!
 

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Nearly forgot the usual visit to the excellent Fast Eddies in Tok. This is one of the best grills anywhere in Alaska and sells the best steak sandwich anywhere...in my opinion of course:augie

Mark thought he'd have a light breakfast of coffee and a Cinnamon roll. He asked the waitress for a side order of toast and her response was "no you don't":eek: She was spot on and what came was a Cinnamon Loaf........:D
 

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So, Dawson City is a cracking little town kept in an old western fashion with dirt roads and wooden sidewalks. Brilliant in the dry and sun but an unholy mess in the wet and miserable conditions.

Needless to say, after the day we had the excellent Westminster Hotel had plenty of business from us and copious amounts of Yukons finest were consumed. It's a proper locals bar were it feels like a fight may break out at any moment.
 

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Just read this. Absolutely fantastic so far. Certainly wets your appetite to go on an adventure.
 
Closer pic of the water bomber in case some one can provide more detail.

Fire Boss AT802, bit more info on those ones here

Has a retractable scoop in each float
 

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Next day was wet and rainy so not many pictures on the way down to Whitehorse. It's a great road in clear conditions but with cloud socked in it is just a road. It did brighten up on the way down though and the sun dried out all the sopping bikes and gear.

Nice stop for breakfast with some good old trucks on show and then of course Whitehose has the biggest weather vane in the world which is a full sized DC3. It does move with the wind and does work as it should.\
 

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Easy day and a nice gentle run down to Skagway with loads of mossies about. Fine study of the State bird of Alaska!

The Emerald Lake is stunning and clear (when the sun is out) but pretty impressive when it's cloudy.

At Carcross you stumble upon a sand desert. This sand has been blown up from the lakes over millenia and for all the world you could be in the Sahara apart from teh pine trees. A couple of germans rolled up in these over the top campers and to be honest were pretty up their own arses and unfriendly when I spoke to them about their vehicles. Perhaps it was Brexit which pissed them off.....who knows. Nice kit, driven by dicks.

Anyway, an excellent bowl of soup and coffee in Carcross warmed the soul on a fairly chilly day.
 

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Thoroughly enjoyable Chris :thumb

Thank you ... great reporting and great photos :beerjug:
 
The road over to Skagway is supposed to be one of the best up in this part of the world for scenery. I will have to take everyones word on that as teh weather decided to get pretty miserable with heavy rain and temps not much above freezing. Can someone tell me again why I love this place??

Anyway, bow lake is interesting as it was only navigated in around 1890. When you think of facts like that, you realise how tough it must have been to for the settlers and explorers who colonised it.
 

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Skagway is an intersting little town with a greatfishinghistory but seems to be there purely for the cruise ships that dock. Apparently on a Wednesday they can get up to 10,000 people unloading of the ships:eek: I think I'd rather boil my head and stick pins in my eyes than do that but each to their own.

Biggest issue with this is most of them are bussed straight out of town for excursions but enough wander around to give a living to all the touristy shops. We had a day off there and to to be honest, everyone enjoyed just mooching around and playing tourists which of course we are.

We found a nice area in the bay just next to Skagway down a very nice dirt road where there was an old settlelment on the flat. At one time there ws probably 5000 people living here at teh turn of teh 20th century but long gone now and very little trace left.
 

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With all this areas history being recent, you can find all sorts of interesting things. Stumbled across this old graveyard which was the site af an Avalanche in the late 1890's which killed around 40 people. Man, life was tough enough up here without dealing with all that as well.

Also found this girl from New York painting on a bridge in the middle of nowhere. Sge reckoned if you couldn't get inspiration from local scenery here, you have no soul. Fair play to her standing there because the area is Bear central and they are mooching around everywhere. I saw 3 in about 5 minutes!!
 

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Skagway is an intersting little town with a greatfishinghistory but seems to be there purely for the cruise ships that dock. Apparently on a Wednesday they can get up to 10,000 people unloading of the ships:eek: I think I'd rather boil my head and stick pins in my eyes than do that but each to their own.

.

I visited Skagway in 1979, on a ship loading lead and zinc concentrates. It was November, no cruise ships - and they opened a few of the shops for us. Had a few beers in the Red Onion Saloon, great atmosphere in off the boardwalked main street. Always wanted to return, but the amount of cruise ships would put me off. IIRC - Skagway hit 10,000 population in a few weeks during the start of the goldrush, with the smart people - setting up businesses to relieve the prospectors of their wealth - rather than fighting their way up the Chilkoot Trail to go prospecting.

Al
 


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