rob mac
Registered user
Now, where were we?
Chin bar removed, helmet body to one side, chin bar liner unscrewed, you now have two pieces, the chin bar complete with latching mechanisms and the liner with polystyrene backing. Put the liner to one side and we'll work on the chin bar mechanism first.
The two release catches are actuated by a Bowden cable that runs through the release button mechanism - This HAS to go, it is made of metal and "shorts" the two release catches together. We need to use these as our electrical connections. Replace it with raquet string of the correct diameter, i.e one that allows the mechanism to operate correctly without fouling any of the release mechanism
You can see the locking system rebuilt with raquet string, MAKE SURE THE LENGTH IS CORRECT SO THAT THE LATCHES FULLY CLOSE TO THEIR STOPS.
Next, it's time to deal with the liner insert and mic mount. Carefully remove the self locking washers on the liner that holds the black trim to the polystyrene.
Now separate the two pieces, you should have the polystyrene in one piece and the black plastic chin guard liner. Make a small hole in the black liner, where the center screw goes in, at the 3 O'Clock position - this is to feed the boom mic through.
Preparing the Mic: Really sorry about lack of pics for this stage but I don't want to strip my helmet back down that far.
The Autocom mic is a mic connected to two pliable metal bars covered in heatshrink with the conductors running in between. Strip off the heatshrink, neatly and carefully to within 3cm of the mic head. REMEMBER, THE CONDUCTORS RUN IN THE MIDDLE, use a Stanley knife and run it down the OUTER edge of the boom arm to protect the conductors.
Now feed this through the hole you have just made in the chin bar liner.
Spread the two pliable bars in opposite directions, across the inner face of the chin guard liner, to give the mic a firm hold when re assembled.
Cut the Autocom mic plug of at 3cm( we need this later on so don't cut too short/throw away/bite off with teeth) Separate the conductors (they're like speaker cable) so one can go left and one can go right. Fit ring tongue connectors on the end (small ones!!) of each conductor.
Rebuild the liner by refitting the polystyrene to the liner and refitting the self locking washers keeping the chin bar wires and conductors AWAY from the cut out in the centre for the release mechanism (There are some lovely "channels" in the polystyrene gagging for the cables and boom arms to run in) and screw the ring tongue connectors under the latching mechanism each side as per the pic above. That's the chin bar (and the hard bit done).
Chin bar removed, helmet body to one side, chin bar liner unscrewed, you now have two pieces, the chin bar complete with latching mechanisms and the liner with polystyrene backing. Put the liner to one side and we'll work on the chin bar mechanism first.
The two release catches are actuated by a Bowden cable that runs through the release button mechanism - This HAS to go, it is made of metal and "shorts" the two release catches together. We need to use these as our electrical connections. Replace it with raquet string of the correct diameter, i.e one that allows the mechanism to operate correctly without fouling any of the release mechanism
You can see the locking system rebuilt with raquet string, MAKE SURE THE LENGTH IS CORRECT SO THAT THE LATCHES FULLY CLOSE TO THEIR STOPS.
Next, it's time to deal with the liner insert and mic mount. Carefully remove the self locking washers on the liner that holds the black trim to the polystyrene.
Now separate the two pieces, you should have the polystyrene in one piece and the black plastic chin guard liner. Make a small hole in the black liner, where the center screw goes in, at the 3 O'Clock position - this is to feed the boom mic through.
Preparing the Mic: Really sorry about lack of pics for this stage but I don't want to strip my helmet back down that far.
The Autocom mic is a mic connected to two pliable metal bars covered in heatshrink with the conductors running in between. Strip off the heatshrink, neatly and carefully to within 3cm of the mic head. REMEMBER, THE CONDUCTORS RUN IN THE MIDDLE, use a Stanley knife and run it down the OUTER edge of the boom arm to protect the conductors.
Now feed this through the hole you have just made in the chin bar liner.
Spread the two pliable bars in opposite directions, across the inner face of the chin guard liner, to give the mic a firm hold when re assembled.
Cut the Autocom mic plug of at 3cm( we need this later on so don't cut too short/throw away/bite off with teeth) Separate the conductors (they're like speaker cable) so one can go left and one can go right. Fit ring tongue connectors on the end (small ones!!) of each conductor.
Rebuild the liner by refitting the polystyrene to the liner and refitting the self locking washers keeping the chin bar wires and conductors AWAY from the cut out in the centre for the release mechanism (There are some lovely "channels" in the polystyrene gagging for the cables and boom arms to run in) and screw the ring tongue connectors under the latching mechanism each side as per the pic above. That's the chin bar (and the hard bit done).
