Simple, NO COST servo removal of 1150 IABS system

Grillman1001 said:
I'm thinking that cutting a dozen or so wires and putting ends on half of them then some heat shrink and mounting the relay was about a 2 minute job. If I would of had a wiring schematic and traced my wires.prior to doing this it would of taken about 30 min total. But I didn't and had to dig a little deeper into it and physically ohm out wires and figure what was not correct with the instructions given on this thread. If had to do again it would be a 1-11/2 hour job. I can draw a schematic of the wiring if someone wants. It's very simple, but if you don't get wiring then do the easy way and only do half the job and have to rig other thinks up to make lights go out and use tape and pull bulbs. My way was the neatest and still can put back in if had to, except I melted it down for scrap. Should of done it the day warranty went off. The brakes are fucking unbelievable. Always thought they were great before, I was wrong.
Click to expand...

It's just such a long winded way of achieving the same goal.

My advice, detach the brain from the servo, ditch the servo and plug into the brain as normal. It's a 1/2 hr max including making a lid to seal the brain unit. in all it what is left weighs nothing and is about 1 inch thick, 4 inches wide by 5 inches deep.

If you are competent with electrics then yes you can feck about and make it work, but there really is no need to cut a single wire.
 
Grillman1001 said:
It's very simple, but if you don't get wiring then do the easy way and only do half the job and have to rig other thinks up to make lights go out and use tape and pull bulbs. My way was the neatest and still can put back in if had to, except I melted it down for scrap.
Click to expand...

So let me think about this.... You're saying that cutting the plug off, tidying and sealing up the bare and loose wiring, fitting terminals onto a few more wires to plug into a relocated relay is neater, quicker and easier than simply cutting no wires at all, leaving the original plug in place in the ecu and removing a relay and one bulb.

Really.

:D
 
Being the inquisitive type, I decided to connect the servo to the "brain" again to see if it would try to initialise. It didn't. When I disconnected the servo from the "brain", the brake light was staying on again. I figured something was holding a charge due to the fault in the servo and decided to leave it for a while. When I came back to it two days later, the brake light was working as it should. I noticed, however, that the brake light was staying on for a split second after I released the front lever. I checked the switch with a continuity meter and the switch was fine, which meant that it was something in the "brain" that was causing the delay - I suspect two components that look like switching transistors

I had been thinking about removing the "brain" anyway and replacing it with a simple relay for the brake light, because it seemed sloppy to leave such an over-complicated circuit on the bike just to operate the brake light. Instead of cutting the wires, I de-soldered the large connector from the "brain":

IMG_0187s_zpsolvimwq4.jpg


Then I bridged pins 5, 6 and 7 of the connector. Pin 5 gives +12V when the ignition is switched on. Pin 6 is for the tail light and pin 7 goes to the rear brake switch. I also bridged pins 40 and 41. That connects the rear and front brake switches. I then connected the relay as shown in the diagram below:

Brake%20Light%20Circuit_zpsfnssraou.jpg


I used a double pole, double throw relay because that's what I happened to have in the workshop, but a single pole double throw relay would be sufficient.

When the bike is started and no brake lever/pedal is pressed, the relay is powered, so there is no power to the brake light. If either of the brakes are pressed, the circuit between pins 7 and 39 is broken. The relay turns off, which connects the brake light to power.

IMG_0190s_zpstuam9xqm.jpg


IMG_0189s_zpsb6hny94g.jpg


I sealed it up in a plastic box, using Sugru:

IMG_0193s_zpswdxbemnn.jpg


This shows how much smaller my homemade box is compared to the complete "brain":

IMG_0194s_zpsxbfp53mr.jpg


I connected it to the bike and because it is so small, I could tuck it in between the Motronic and the alternator:

IMG_0208s_zpsosttmmjo.jpg


IMG_0210s_zpsdahw0aj6.jpg


That leaves the space where the servo used to be completely free:

IMG_0213s_zpsaojnb6m7.jpg


My plan is eventually to modify the battery bracket and move the battery forward, to just behind the Motronic. That will leave the free space behind the battery, meaning I can access it by removing the seat.

Before you start shouting at me, I know that it would have been easier to leave the "brain" in place, but I think this is a better, tidier job.
 
I'd really appreciate some guidance with a problem on my 2003 1150GSA with servo ABS.
For some time riders behind said my brake light was flickering and I put this down to a hair trigger front brake switch. Last week went out for a ride, same comment on flickering brake light. Parked up for a couple of hours and when I restarted, the "general warning" light immediately below the ABS warning came on. Brakes still working fine, so rode gently home. No flickering brake light comments from mate behind. Manual says this warning light is for ABS fault or rear light fault. Checked on here and found some posts about changing the bulb curing the problem so changed the bulb, but no change. So I started checking out the brakes and ABS. Checked the fluid levels in the front and rear brake reservoirs, then took the tank off and checked the levels in the servo; all OK. Ignition on, ABS light flashes then goes out as it should; general warning light off until I touch either front or rear brake, then it lights up. Neither front or rear brake lever gives me a brake light. So the servo is working and I have good brakes, and a tail light, but no brake light. Wiring from the rear light is in good condition, with no obvious damage and was obviously working until the other night as I had the complaint about the flickering brake light! I've also checked both filaments of the new bulb, they are fine (as was the old bulb) and the tail light is working, so the problem seems to be that I'm not getting the brake light signal.
As stated above. the servo and brakes work fine but as the brake light is operated from the servo, I'm wondering:
1) Have the brake light switches in the servo failed ?
2) If so, can they be fixed?
3) Is this an indicator that the servo is on the way out?
4) Has the time come for servoectomy?

Any help would be much appreciated.
 
I think you'll get more help if you start a new topic for this. I'm in a rush out to work, so don't have time to think about it too much, but I suspect a dodgy brake switch or a sticking lever/pedal.
 
I'd agree with Tadhg but you don;t say if it ever manages to do the "Self Check" basically at ignition on the unit cycles through its variable functions which includes requiring to "see" two brake switches

Switches on these bikes with Servo ABS are "Normally closed"

Unplug the brake switches one at a time and "bridge" the connectors to impersonate a switch

If doing this on one or other circuit cures it then you have an answer

Otherwise its digging in the loom for a broken wire or trying another electronic box


tadhgocuilleain said:
I think you'll get more help if you start a new topic for this. I'm in a rush out to work, so don't have time to think about it too much, but I suspect a dodgy brake switch or a sticking lever/pedal.
Click to expand...


Tadhg Nice work on the wee relay boyo there :aidan Very neat indeed and you probably did not need top unplug any bulbs either the way you did it?
 
DrFarkoff said:
Tadhg Nice work on the wee relay boyo there :aidan Very neat indeed and you probably did not need top unplug any bulbs either the way you did it?
Click to expand...

Thanks. :)

You're right. I had to remove the ABS relay, as the ABS light was on steady, but the general warning light wasn't on at all, so I didn't need to remove any bulbs.
 
Thanks for the pointers so far. Mechanically, I'm pretty competent but have never really got my head round electrical wizardry. I'll try the recommendations and report back but work is crazy right now and I won't get to it before Thursday, then next week we're away on holiday.
I'll also follow Tadhg's tip and post a new thread.

Dr F: At ignition on, it goes through the "self check" and everything is fine until I touch either brake lever, then the general warning light comes on and only resets if I switch off and back on, then it repeats the same cycle. I have no brake light from either front or rear switch actuation and the probability of both switches failing at the same time seems pretty unlikely. I'll check the brake light switches as you recommend, but think I may be looking for a broken wire as you suggest.

Thanks again.

Mac
 
If it gives an error when you press either lever, then it must be "seeing" that you're pressing the lever, so your switches and wiring to them are probably okay.

If you pull the big connector off the servo and use a small bit of wire to bridge pins 4 and 5, that will connect your brake light directly to power. When you turn on the ignition, your brake light should come on. If not, there's something wrong with the brake light itself.

I had the general warning light coming on a while back and changed the bulb, as you've done, but it only solved it for a short while. When I took the bulb out the second time, I saw that the contacts for the bulb were a little dirty. I scraped them clean and it worked fine since. Maybe have a look at the contacts on yours?
 
Tadhg you bloody genius!!!!
Quick trip into the garage tonight and pulled the new bulb. Bulb OK but looked into the socket and saw there was some black contamination on the contacts - looked like the arcing deposits you used to get on the contact breakers back in the days when I still had hair. Scraped it all clean with a flat scalpel, put the bulb back in and everthing now works as it should. Then took the precaution of removing the bulb and applying ACF 50 to the contacts and the bulb!

My thanks to you, Dr.F and Grim Rider who all responded in my hour of need;interestingly, GR suggested the bulb contact thing so that makes at least 3 of us who've had the same problem.....

God knows how much time, money and anger I could have used up chasing the problem without the collective wisdom of this forum. Gentlemen, I am in your debt; payment will surely take liquid form if we meet!

Cheers,

Mac
 
Get the images sized correctly (just under 1Mb), dump them on your desktop and pull them from there when 'attaching images'
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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