Spark plug changing issue

[Cobblers]

Hello all,

I'm new here, I've had my '09 GS about 6 months, so still pretty new to the bike (mainly down to not being able to get out on it much)

Anyway, long story short, I've had stalling issues going from 3rd to 2nd, I've mostly got over this by blipping the throttle, but the times it has stopped I've not been able to restart without getting to neutral. From reading the threads on here I thought I'd have a go at the clutch switch to see if that fixed the only starting in neutral issue, reseating it and a clean did fix this problem.

To try and get a better run at solving the engine stopping issue I thought I start with fresh plugs, the bike only has 9k only it, but thought given the age it might not be a bad thing.

I ordered a 16mm Spark Plug socket which came today and armed with new plugs I started to remove the first one. Engine and bike were cold.

The socket seemed to go onto the plug fine, it loosened and I unwound the thread by maybe 5 or 6 turns, but then it stiffened up and I had to put a bit more effort into turning the socket.

However, its now stuck, I can't loosen it, or tighten it again, at least not without seeming to apply too much pressure. I also can't pull the socket out, I've nearly pulled the bike over trying to get it out, but it will not budge at all. I can only assume the plug has turned in the socket and it now gripping the wall of the cavity.

Don't know what to do now, call for a local specialist to take it away, or get a mallet on it.

Anybody had anything similar?

 

[Pops]

Did you get a standard plug socket.? You need a slim one to fit the gs heads, can’t remember where I got mine but Motorworks do one for £7.15.

 

[Cobblers]

I did use a standard one, this is the one I purchased:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000RA19FS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It did go in and appeared to grip the plug though, so I don't understand why it has become stuck. But this sounds like my error.

Still not sure what to do though, don't know if it needs heat or a lubricant, or just taking to someone who knows what they are doing....

 

[Cheney Triumph]

I did use a standard one, this is the one I purchased:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000RA19FS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It did go in and appeared to grip the plug though, so I don't understand why it has become stuck. But this sounds like my error.

Still not sure what to do though, don't know if it needs heat or a lubricant, or just taking to someone who knows what they are doing....

I see that you purchased a 1/2 inch drive socket, I would imagine the socket is perhaps too tight for the aperture / recess in the cylinder head, as you have unwound the plug the socket has become stuck in the head. Unfortunately I think you may have to carefully screw it back in to free of the plug socket.

For the future try and go for 3/8 drive kit as it is a lot slimmer & more than enough on a motorcycle. 1/2 inch drive is quite bulky & even not really needed unless you are faced with large components.

Personally, I always try & remove spark plugs when the engine is warm / hot as it is both easier & kinder to the alloy cylinder head.

Take it steady & good luck.

 

[NicD]

main lesson is that when unscrewing and something is stiffer than it should be, stop and look at why. don't lean on it

My assumption is that you are removing primary plug as you haven't stated it was a secondary one.

And I'm going to hazard a guess based on the problem and the 1/2" socket that you aren't very experienced. My suggestion at this point is to get a friend over who is experienced. The worst thing you could do now would be to try to screw plug back in and cross thread it, and there has to be a decent chance of that if socket at a slight angle and plug off or near off threads.

Not sure about that year - can he take the valve cover off at this stage if plug is out of threads or if still in threads?

 

[Popell]

I was thinking that removing the valve cover would be my next move given the above

 

[botus]

if you don't do plugs up tight enough a lot of combustion crud clogs the last few threads of the plug and they can have this issue

wind back in abit, leave loose and squirt something down the hole and get some lube wd40 or plug gas round the threads there for 20 mins

I use my snap on 5/8" spark plug socket - because that's what size the plug is


DESCRIPTION SPECS FITMENT
Shell
Thread Size: 12mm
Thread Pitch: 1.25mm
Seat Type: Gasket
Resistor Value: 5K Ohm
Reach: 19mm (3/4")
Hex Size: 5/8" (15.88mm)
Terminal Type: Solid
Overall Height: ISO
Gap: .035" (0.9mm)

 

[Cobblers]

Thanks all,

It's out, I gingerly wound the plug back in and put penetrant spray on and left it overnight.

I also asked for help from a mechanic friend, who unscrewed and removed the plug this morning. So, massively relieved.

I'll not even touch that plug socket again, so will get the right one on order today.

 

[Popell]

Is there not one in your toolkit?

 

[Lord Snooty]

Well done Cobblers, I bet you were sweating on that for a while.

 

[Cobblers]

Yes, definitely dodged a bullet, that could have been a very expensive mistake. I wish my toolkit did have one though, I've had Honda's before which have all had the right tools for the spark plugs included.

 

[TLSgazza]

Didn't have one in my toolkit so I bought one. Then realised I have one in both of my TLS's that would have fitted.

 

[landmarkjohn]

I thought TPS sensor might be prime suspect for the stalling on downshift. Easy to remove, test (with a multimeter), clean, test.

 

[Cobblers]

I thought TPS sensor might be prime suspect for the stalling on downshift. Easy to remove, test (with a multimeter), clean, test.

Thanks, I'd not seen that, but I see there are some good posts on here about the TPS, I'll start reading.