Stationary idling oilheads

[cele0001]

It is widely known and accepted fact that oilheads (probably airheads also) should not be left idling while not moving. It is in the owner manual and all over the web. But does anybody know why?
I guess the explanation is that since it is air cooled it can not cool itself unless there is air flowing across the heads to cool them.
But, having an engine that is unable to idle without overheating just doesn't make any sense to me. Am I to believe that every time you are stuck in traffic for any period of time you are supposed to turn the engine off and then turn it back on when it is time to go. Am I also to believe that Germans were unable to design the engine so at least at idle at normal outside temperature the engine can run indefinitely. I am sure that some you GS people are running your bikes through the mud at near zero speed with rpms way over idle. How is that OK then?
Maybe random late night ramblings but just one of those things where you have to go WHY?

 

[(RIP) Kaister]

you don't know what you're talking about really, do you ?

 

[AndyT]

I think its more crucial not to leave it idling with the choke on but I may be wrong. I just know that I took my bike out of the garage one day and started it up with the choke on (chokes probably not the right word either) and almost straight away got called into the house for something which diverted my attention. Anyway to cut a long story short when I went back to my bike the exhaust pipes were cherry red It did no damage to my bike and ran for another 15000 miles without a glitch when I sold it but I don't think it is the best thing to do

You don't need to worry about the bike in traffic as it will be stop start riding but you do need a flow of air through the oil cooler and the cylinders I imagine which you will get every time you move off......

 

[cele0001]

Having a very difficult time trying to say anything looking at those avatars guys. Good night.

 

[Timolgra]

It's not only when they're stationary.
Apart from the temp gauge, the first indication it's getting a but hot is a rattle from the engine, I've had this when riding slowly over rocks with a following wind.

 

[(RIP) Mark H]

Leave a RT idling unattended for long enough and the fairing will catch fire leave any oilhead idling long enough and the plastic oil sight window will melt out losing all your oil

 

[Ian J Hartley]

It's oil and air cooled. Anything that wicks the heat away such as Air, mud, water is good.

Some of the RT's used by the emergency services have the addition of an oil cooler fan fitted, for those static periods when they need the engine running.

As to what damage is caused, I don't know. But those exhaust pipes cherry red, while looking good, are a bit unnerving.

 

[snelly]

The viscosity of the oil breaks down and it becomes too thin to lubricate the moving parts in the engine.This can lead to a seizure in extreme cases,and at the least promote rapid wear.All engines over heat whilst idling for long periods , but at least with a watercooled engine the fan should come on to push cooler air through the radiator. Don,t worry too much ,BMW have been building these engines for a long time and have built in the correct clearances to cope with most situations . Just use your noggin to decide how long to leave it ticking over.

 

[cele0001]

I get the fact that high idle is probably not a good thing while standing still, but at normal idle (I guess tickover is a term in the UK) at outside temperature of 20C or so there should be enough heat radiating from the engine and oil coolers to keep it at at a stable temperature. I get the RT situation, to a point, given that it is fully dressed but "open" bikes should be able to give of enough heat to survive. Otherwise no wonder they lost the war (twice).

 

[alanbmwgs]

Otherwise no wonder they lost the war (twice).

For CRYING OUT LOUD ..... Don't mention the War!!!!!

 

[cele0001]

One of those unspoken rules?
By the way what is the correct oil to put in the R1150?

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Early days I think they used 10W40. I changed mine to 20W50 and it made a big difference to the noise. Not so rattly.

I think they recommend 20W50 now, certainly more suitable to UK average temperatures.

The thing is you need to look at your operation environment temperature wise and decide on the oil grade that best suits.

As to mineral, semi synthetic or fully synthetic. I don't know. I always used Mineral in the GS.

 

[cele0001]

Thanks for the info but it was more of a joke. That is always a good one to open up a thread with despite the info being plastered in the sticky on every page.

 

[Ian J Hartley]

 

[ianf]

is it another 'fake noob'?