Stator

hiwfrs

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Hi all, my 2013 lc burnt the stator to reg plug out, I've renewed the plug & fitted a new reg, tested stator wires and found the following

No continuity between 3 wires and ground
0.3ohms resistance between 3 wires
24v ac out of 3 wires at idle

However when bike is running 3 stator wires are getting to hot to touch within a minute, any idea's on what could be causing this ?
 
hiwfrs said:
Hi all, my 2013 lc burnt the stator to reg plug out, I've renewed the plug & fitted a new reg, tested stator wires and found the following

No continuity between 3 wires and ground
0.3ohms resistance between 3 wires
24v ac out of 3 wires at idle

However when bike is running 3 stator wires are getting to hot to touch within a minute, any idea's on what could be causing this ?
Click to expand...
Internal short on the stator ? or one windings insulation breaking down?

The early Lc's had a problem with the alternator - not a cheap fix if it is
 
But my 3 wire stator test suggest it’s ok, no short to ground & 0.3ohm resistance between them & it’s charging ok from reg at 14.3v it’s just the the 3 wires are burning hot. I’m prepared to replace stator but need to 100% sure, don’t want to end up in same situation after replacing stator
 
Your stator appears fine according to all the tests and checks you`ve done. If you had a short one of the phases would be outputting less than the other two - all yours are 24V which is a good sign. I assume this is 24VAC across each of the three phase wires (plug disconnected and no load)?
When i`ve had overheating stator wires on other (Jap) bikes the culprit has been a dodgy earth somewhere.
On those bikes the main wiring looms earth point(s), main battery earth, things like that are all easily checkable.
I have no idea if/where the main earth points on a BMW CANbus sytem are or if compromised would have the same symptoms as the traditional bikes` wiring i have worked on but it`s a direction to work on which could make a difference.
 
Last edited:
Hann said:
Your stator appears fine according to all the tests and checks you`ve done. If you had a short one of the phases would be outputting less than the other two - all yours are 24V which is a good sign. I assume this is 24VAC across each of the three phase wires (plug disconnected and no load)?
When i`ve had overheating stator wires on other (Jap) bikes the culprit has been a dodgy earth somewhere.
On those bikes the main wiring looms earth point(s), main battery earth, things like that are all easily checkable.
I have no idea if/where the main earth points on a BMW CANbus sytem are or if compromised would have the same symptoms as the traditional bikes` wiring i have worked on but it`s a direction to work on which could make a difference.
Click to expand...
What amps is the alternator delivering at - Idle & 4k (+-100rpm) you should be seeing 28A at idle & 48A at 4k
 
Last edited:
Do you get the red battery symbol when riding? And what do your charging volts look like when the engine is running?


Here's my thread and results when i was getting the red battery symbol, and the battery not charging.

Charging Issue; Stator or RR

Seems like one issue after another currently after a fuss free 18 months. Whilst sorting my slight oil leak the Bike threw up the red warning for low charging/low battery voltage. It did this once a few weeks ago and it went within a few minutes. On the rides this week (short, local ones) its...
www.ukgser.com
 
No red battery symbol & charging volts 14.3, you wouldn’t know anything was wrong unless you touch the stator wires, my concern is that it left for to long will burn out again or destroy my stator
 
have you tested your RR? I think i have a spare working one in the garage somewhere.
 
Is your battery fully charged? I may be a million miles off the mark but is it just heat from trying to re-charge a depleted battery?
 
Yes tested rr and found resistance slightly high as per information I found so put on another one however still the same. Out of interest would another GS owner be prepared to see how hot their wires get when running as it’s easy access on the underside of the riders seat from the left hand side ?
 
Those multiplugs out of the stator are under a lot of load and it`s not unusual for them to develop high resistances which leads to overheating and melted connectors, this is all you may have experienced.
The question is is there an underlying fault somewhere which is causing excessive current and heat. Is the wiring/multiplug just getting warm, or HOT?

These arn`t GS plugs but show the result of high resistances or iffy connections;





 
Battery is fully charged & the wires are getting to hot to touch with hands within a minute
 
Because there is a difference between capacity and what is being delivered. The latter depends on the load. You said that this is what they should be seeing but in order to see it the load has to draw down that much. Usually when testing a stator there is no load and one expects to see the open circuit voltage increase with RPM. You have misinterpreted the spec you cite. You would only potentially see that many amps if you had a load that would draw it.
 
RadioFlyer said:
Because there is a difference between capacity and what is being delivered. The latter depends on the load. You said that this is what they should be seeing but in order to see it the load has to draw down that much. Usually when testing a stator there is no load and one expects to see the open circuit voltage increase with RPM. You have misinterpreted the spec you cite. You would only potentially see that many amps if you had a load that would draw it.
Click to expand...
Take it up with the mothership, its there specs,
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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