Steering head bearings

[brassmonkey001]

I'll go and buy one tomorrow morning if someone can recommend a good one for the job, as I need to get the bike ready for next Wee-kend and it's not looking hopeful right now.

So a quick response would be much appreciated.

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

Is there no lip on the race that you can reach from top of the tube to bash it out evenly ?
Alternative, people use stick welder to made some beads on the race bearing face which will shrink it when it cools - plop!

 

[brassmonkey001]

Is there no lip on the race that you can reach from top of the tube to bash it out evenly ?
Alternative, people use stick welder to made some beads on the race bearing face which will shrink it when it cools - plop!

There's a tiny lip but I don't have anything that I can get behind it from the the other end of the tube. I'll have to see if I can find something I can modify.
I don't have a welder so that's out.

 

[DrFarkoff]

go hire one from an HSS shop

BUT Have the new ones ready to go back in while the headstock is still warm

It's about half an hours job to change them both once you have it all stripped off

Have a couple of wee bit of bar or a lump of metal that just sits in the top cup cos if ya do it right the bottom one falls out and the top one will lift out with a wee bolt or big washer welded in (no edge to catch otherwise!)

Have fun

By the way this way is easier than a big bag of easy things and you'll kick yerself if yo ugo bbuy a puller cos they are about 65 quid for a "Cuckoo" puller an internal bearing puller I think is the right name

 

[brassmonkey001]

Hmm, me and welders don't get on. I'd probably end up welding the damn things in.

 

[brassmonkey001]

A MiG welder? I think a mate of mine has got one or he used to have anyways..

 

[Voyager]

IIRC . . I drilled the outer track parallel to the headstock and then split the track with a small cold chisel.

I may have used a 6mm carbide burr in an air-driven Die Grinder (it was too long ago for my tired old brain to remember ).

It knocked out easily after that.

I decided this method was safer than trying to shrink the track with a welder (I have both MIG and Stick).


I found the old bearings and tracks the other day - I could post a pic if that would help.


Bob.

 

[bumpmuncher]

how about welding a bit of bar across the old race and using a drift from the top. its how we used to remove valve seats from large diesels (it never failed) not tried it on stearing head bearings but i would think it would work.



oops just read you have already had that idea

 

[v4our]

I have got an expanding puller if you would like to borrow it?

 

[Voyager]

I have got an expanding puller if you would like to borrow it?

I have used Rawlbolts in the past (but not for head bearing outer tracks).

Put a thick, drilled plate between the bolt head and expanding sleeve,

Insert the sleeve into the bearing / track,

Tighten the sleeve until its tight in the bearing,

Hit the plate, or attach it to a slide hammer.

Hours of fun


I have a local tool shop that sells a good range of Rawlbolts; its useful to have a few sizes 'in stock' for odd jobs


Bob.

 

[brassmonkey001]

Is it much of a job?

Yes, it can be a right tunc of a job sometimes.

Will I need any special tools?

Yes, you will need all the special tools known to man and you still will end up thrashing fcuk out of it with a hammer.

I have got an expanding puller if you would like to borrow it?

Thanks Vfour, not needed now


One thing is for certain - I will be filing some grooves into the headstock so that next time I, (or whoever) will be able to get some decent purchase behind the outer races.
Not that there will be a next time as I will be cleaning and regreasing the bearings religiously as part of the maintenance schedule from now on.

 

[brassmonkey001]

I have used Rawlbolts in the past (but not for head bearing outer tracks).

Put a thick, drilled plate between the bolt head and expanding sleeve,

Insert the sleeve into the bearing / track,

Tighten the sleeve until its tight in the bearing,

Hit the plate, or attach it to a slide hammer.

Hours of fun


I have a local tool shop that sells a good range of Rawlbolts; its useful to have a few sizes 'in stock' for odd jobs


Bob.

A big old coachbolt was most efficacious in the removing of the races.

 

[brassmonkey001]

OK, I went for a short test ride earlier.
There's a nasty weave that sets in around 75 and gets worse until you back off when it eases off again.
I can't imagine this will improve when the bike is fully laden, so how can I iron this one out?

I think, the bearings may be a little on the tight side if anything but from the information I can gleam it seems that tightening them further should eliminate the high speed weaving.

The bars will fall to the right with a nudge but not so much to the left.
What do you reckon? Nip them up a bit more or slacken them a tad?

I hope to start getting my stuff together soon and I'm still farting around with the bike.
Still, I've been in worse states on the morning of a rally before now.