Steering head bearings

volcane

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Hi all
Would someone have the P/N of the steering head bearings for a BMW F650GS twin 2008. Myself and my wife swapped bikes the other day and it was immediately apparent that there is a distinct pocket in the straight ahead position particularly at low speed. SKF or other good quality bearing part numbers i would really appreciate both upper and lower. We are going to tackle the job ourselves as dealer quotes have been eyewatering.
Are there other than BMW available seals for the bearings also? My own bike is a 2010 version of the same bike. I would assume the bearings are the same? I would intend to purchase two sets of bearings to be ready for the day when my own start to fail. Both bikes are only coming up on 19000 kms by the way. In addition links to instruction / videos of the process would be appreciated.

Best regards PJ & Hazel:thumby:
 
I got mine from simply bearings too - the SKF part is 320/28XQ metric single row tapered roller bearing 28x52x16

It's a bit tricky so you'll probably need to replace the bottom (and possibly top) cap which can be bought from BMW for not much.

The best pics i've found -

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=716362

- he's on an f8 but the second half is the same for both bikes. I would recommend dropping the forks out though - i found it easier when doing mine.

Best,

S
 
I used the guide that Smythson posted, took about me 2.5 hrs.
I bought SKS Explorer bearings through a local bearing co, cost about £42 for two.
The upper dust cap can be re-used, the lower is damaged when using a 4mm dia pin punch to knock out the lower bearing.
The old bearings came out without too much hammer rash :eek:
The lower bearing was buggered, with the race badly pitted, whilst the top one was in reasonable condition.
I did mine at 44,000 miles and now getting close to 50,000 and feels like new :)
 
Many thanks for the information. I have sourced NSK bearings HR 320 28 XJ from a local bearing supply company. The dust seals I've ordered from motorworks. I shall do the job on receipt of these. I've also got a motobatt battery and DID chain and sprockets on the way to fit to her bike. I shall report back on how I get on. Thanks again rgds PJ
 
Hi guys this task is now accomplished and the bike back on the road. Removal of the lower bearing is much easier using a proper 4mm long punch and a good hammer. I was even able to reuse the lower bearing seal which was lucky as motorworks sent me the wrong one. The inside of the steering stem was rusty which I believe added greatly to the demise of the bearings. I removed the rust and treated the inside of the stem with ACF 50 and a light coat of grease. We also replaced the battery with a mottobatt and installed new front brake pads and gave the bike a good clean and polish. Thanks again for the help. I will post pics and give any additional detail if requested. I certainly wouldn't pay the €400 requested for bearing replacement only. It does help having a garage to do the work in and having a car so the bike can be taken apart for a few days.
Best regards PJ
 
Hi, any documentation, pics and comments would be useful. My local shop did not quote me £400, but I am still considering doing the bearings myself. The thread at ADVRIDER is good, but if you are willing to share your knowledge here, it would be appreciated.
 
Noted by dealer today .... bearings need doing (at 15,000 miles :( ) also cylinder head weeping oil :( will do both under insurance warranty for excess only :)
 
Hi guys this task is now accomplished and the bike back on the road. Removal of the lower bearing is much easier using a proper 4mm long punch and a good hammer. I was even able to reuse the lower bearing seal which was lucky as motorworks sent me the wrong one. The inside of the steering stem was rusty which I believe added greatly to the demise of the bearings. I removed the rust and treated the inside of the stem with ACF 50 and a light coat of grease. We also replaced the battery with a mottobatt and installed new front brake pads and gave the bike a good clean and polish. Thanks again for the help. I will post pics and give any additional detail if requested. I certainly wouldn't pay the €400 requested for bearing replacement only. It does help having a garage to do the work in and having a car so the bike can be taken apart for a few days.
Best regards PJ
I would re torque them after 600 > 1,000 miles, once they have settled and bedded in :cool:
 
Yes Thomo57 I have this pencilled in to do. I have a torque wrench for the intital 25nm seating torque then back off and 10nm final torque applicable for the F650GS twin. Changing the chain and sprockets at the moment. DID chain and JT sprockets. Front sprocket was a little painful to get of the shaft due some rust. Cleaned shaft with light wire brush and slid new one on with some anti seize grease so it will be all good next time. Thanks for all the help. Rgds PJ:beerjug:
 
Well had my head bearings changed 3 times so far in 16k miles just under 4 years, last set lasted 7-months and around 2k miles. All done by BMW dealer, once under warranty, once under extended warranty and just now under guarantee from last change.

Needless to say bike is getting chopped in as that was the last straw.

Look out for some bits up for sale in next couple of weeks once the bike goes
 
Well had my head bearings changed 3 times so far in 16k miles just under 4 years, last set lasted 7-months and around 2k miles. All done by BMW dealer, once under warranty, once under extended warranty and just now under guarantee from last change.

Needless to say bike is getting chopped in as that was the last straw.

Look out for some bits up for sale in next couple of weeks once the bike goes

What's next, sir?
 
Going to give the V-Strom 1000 a go, pushed further by roadtax due, chain being ready to replace and rear disc below service limit.... well that is my excuse lol
 
Going to give the V-Strom 1000 a go, pushed further by roadtax due, chain being ready to replace and rear disc below service limit.... well that is my excuse lol

Good choice, I sat on one last weekend at Tan Hill, the new model and was surprised how easily everything fell to hand and that it was well finished
 
Good choice, I sat on one last weekend at Tan Hill, the new model and was surprised how easily everything fell to hand and that it was well finished

On my test ride was surprised, felt just like the F but with better handling and more power but everything just felt right
 
Is it always the head bearings. I have a slow "weave" on my 09 800 GS. I thought it was wheel bearings so replaced them, also stripped cleaned and regreased the head bearings. The "weave" is still there and a small knock when the front wheel is rocked as its grabbed front and back ( as opposed to side to side( When the forks are rocked on their own there is no play. I was wondering if it could be fork bushes?

Any thoughts?

Fred
 
Head bearings are easy to check, raise front wheel off ground, slowly move handlebars left to right. If they are shot you will feel it, usually in the straight ahead position. Almost like it has a detent in the central position, if it pronounced then time to change, and yes the slow weave is a sympton
 


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