Sticking exhaust butterfly valve

Look its only there as a piss take on the noise regulations. It doesn't do anything other than tickle a Eurocrat's anus.

Remove it or disable it so it is permanently open. Then move on to something important.
 
Look its only there as a piss take on the noise regulations. It doesn't do anything other than tickle a Eurocrat's anus.

Remove it or disable it so it is permanently open. Then move on to something important.

I can see where you're coming from but, paraphrasing what I said in the original post, if someone has gone to the trouble of designing and building a device to tickle a Eurocrat, I'd like to have it working. Perhaps if we could find out which Eurocrat is missing their regular tickle we might be able to persuade them to get it fixed?
 
Not sure if it can be lubed with a grease designed for extreme temperatures in steam applications. We used to have "clydespin" to lube the soot blower valve spindles on marine boilers, something like that would be just the job for keeping an exup valve moving.
 
It's not just a sop to the noise regulations. Whenever mine has stopped working I've noticed a reduction in mid-range urge on main road overtakes etc. With the valve working, I just roll open the throttle and off it goes. When the valve is not working, it simply doesn't feel as strong. Nothing major - it doesn't feel dangerous or anything like that, and if I need full power I would change down anyway (top-end power appears to me to be unaffected by the valve).
 
It's not just a sop to the noise regulations. Whenever mine has stopped working I've noticed a reduction in mid-range urge on main road overtakes etc. With the valve working, I just roll open the throttle and off it goes. When the valve is not working, it simply doesn't feel as strong. Nothing major - it doesn't feel dangerous or anything like that, and if I need full power I would change down anyway (top-end power appears to me to be unaffected by the valve).

Mite av somat to do with the valve stikin in the closed position, thus part chokin the engine
 
Mite av somat to do with the valve stikin in the closed position, thus part chokin the engine

Or the opposite eg not sticking part closed, which effectively boosts the mid range by altering the tuned length of the exhaust system as per the Yamaha EXUP design concept.
 
2 valve engines have lots of mid range but run out as the revs rise. Though my Diversion 900 does pretty well. I've hardly ever needed to get it up to 9000.

Yamaha fitted the EXUP to their 5 valve sports engines to claw back the otherwise weak mid range compared to 4 valve engines.

They did the same thing (sort of) thing with the YVPS valves on the Elsie strokers. They came on the pipe with lots of power at the expense of a flat mid range. Altering the exhaust port timing with a valve boosted the mid range without losing the top end power. They didn't actually change the pipe harmonics.

BMW will have the valve to off-set the effects of more radical valve timing on the twin cam engines. All exhausts have a tuned harmonic range to suit the engine. The valve allows two harmonic ranges - A long pipe for mid range and another short pipe for high revs.
 
1200 sticking exhaust valve

:beerjug: Can someone tell me the noise associated with this problem. I have a 2010 and I hear a repeating bleep noise from the valve area when I switch on the ignition but can't hear it when the engine runs maybe because it drowns it out.
Is this the noise that you are referring to and if so what's involved in taking it off and what do I look for? Thanks Colin:blast
 
Yes - it's the motor repeatedly attempting to move a seized spindle.
Take can off, then valve assembly and remove cables noting where they were re. Adjustment.
You try moving it with your fingers...
 
:beerjug: Can someone tell me the noise associated with this problem. I have a 2010 and I hear a repeating bleep noise from the valve area when I switch on the ignition but can't hear it when the engine runs maybe because it drowns it out.
Is this the noise that you are referring to and if so what's involved in taking it off and what do I look for? Thanks Colin:blast

Does it sound like this, post 25,

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=294861&page=2
 
gs exhaust valve

Yes. exactly like that. I would like to know what could be done! I have seen a couple of suggestions like taking off the silencer. Can the flap be taken out for examination and is it technical? What's the procedure?:blast
 
Yes. exactly like that. I would like to know what could be done! I have seen a couple of suggestions like taking off the silencer. Can the flap be taken out for examination and is it technical? What's the procedure?:blast


I think the answer to all those questions are contained in this thread.
 
The only way to tell if the flap will come out is to get under the bike with a torch and mirror. But it was put in there at the factory so it should come out again. Dry lubricants are likely to be the best option probably a high solids high temperature anti seize paste. But as with all these things nobody really knows because BMW would just fit a new one under warranty. They dont do "repairs".
 
I can see where you're coming from but, paraphrasing what I said in the original post, if someone has gone to the trouble of designing and building a device to tickle a Eurocrat, I'd like to have it working.

Why? Seems like you are fixing something for the sake of it. BMW would rather it wasn't there. Mine's coming off and heading for the bin the moment it starts playing up.
 
Its BMW's choice because they chose to use more aggressive valve timing, which lost some mid range so they clawed it back with the power valve.

Eurocrats are just politicians who failed elsewhere looking for something to do. They are a total waste of space, time and money. Shoot the lot.

IMHO of course.
 
Its BMW's choice because they chose to use more aggressive valve timing, which lost some mid range so they clawed it back with the power valve.

Eurocrats are just politicians who failed elsewhere looking for something to do. They are a total waste of space, time and money. Shoot the lot.

IMHO of course.

Where did you get that info from? I heard it was purely to get around the noise rules. Plus some folks have removed it and not noticed any difference, which makes me doubt what you are saying. I think you will find that the exhaust flap thing reduces noise, and as a by product, causes a torque reduction too.

Wunderlich sell a tube to allow removal: http://www.wunderlich-bmw.com/shopa...Wunderlich-exhaust-flap-remover-from-2010.htm

8166209_web_kl.jpg
 
Where did you get that info from? I heard it was purely to get around the noise rules. Plus some folks have removed it and not noticed any difference, which makes me doubt what you are saying. I think you will find that the exhaust flap thing reduces noise, and as a by product, causes a torque reduction too.

Wunderlich sell a tube to allow removal:

If I had such a bike I'd rip it out in a heartbeat. How crazy of bumwee to put a mechanical device into such a harsh environment.
Failure is the only possible outcome. Any attempt to keep the valve working will be a lifetime labour of love. Bin it.
 
Where did you get that info from? I heard it was purely to get around the noise rules. Plus some folks have removed it and not noticed any difference, which makes me doubt what you are saying. I think you will find that the exhaust flap thing reduces noise, and as a by product, causes a torque reduction too.

Wunderlich sell a tube to allow removal: http://www.wunderlich-bmw.com/shopa...Wunderlich-exhaust-flap-remover-from-2010.htm

8166209_web_kl.jpg

30 Euros for a couple of inches of stainless tubing!?
 


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